Bryan

Do you think all of the NAPA or Gates water pumps sold now will take a 14 PSI cap? About to do the Rock Auto gates one. Any other changes to the cooling system needed for running 14 PSI?

If it has paper covered capacitors (and others for that matter) you might want to change them out anyway since they are so old. But a good source to go to about old home type radios is https://philcoradio.com/phorum/

I would think so except it seemed to vary with later year heads. I was going to go with .04 myself...seems like a safe number.

Here's info I gleaned from different sites and different people. None of it is mine...just copied into a WORD document. Took a screen shot.

I tried the search function but got other mixed subjects. The machine shop will order bearings, etc for my D24 (Plymouth) motor. Was wondering about good sources of water, fuel, oil pumps, studs, bolts, hoses and engine mounts. Worried about getting cheap metal for studs, or Chinese rubber parts. Had a go-kart before where the rubber mounts, battery straps, hoses etc were cracking within a year without a lot of weather exposure. Same with metals for punches...cheap.

Don't try to flush it out unless you're willing to take the pan off, cleaning the oil pickup tube & sump, galleys, everything where oil was circulating. I did the ol kerosene flush in the mid 90s with just draining the pan plug, later had the engine knocking.

Plus, I have a Plymouth motor in it..I'm not going into the woods and disassembling THAT car's front end and trying to pull the other Dodge motor. Which means cutting 10 pines out to get to it.

When I think about my upcoming engine overhaul I start looking into all the "improvements" I could be making. Someone needs to post a Batman slapping Robin. I'm going to leave it with by-pass oil filtering, keep it 6V, no cross drilling cranks, no cooling passage mods..just a Power Wagon PVC kit, 180-195 thermostat and regular air filter. Crap, I'm not going to be driving 100 miles on the interstate at 75 mph. Probably just putting around here at local car meetings. I can change oil more often. My father drove it for years with no problems except it stalling when it got hot in parades. I have the original heat shield and can route the fuel line further away. maybe insulate it and check the carb float level. Keep getting antsy and researching too much. I'm not racing it or driving long distances.

When I was overhauling my 92 Dakota rear end thought I had a crack in the casing between rear pinion bearing and side, but it never leaked or showed it was flexing. Bigger problem was the carrier races spinning in the housing. What rear end do you have, a 8.75? Spline count on pinion and side gears? There are used carriers and aftermarket ones all over for 8.75. The only thing I had to watch for my 8.25 was spline count.

Yep, if only I had that much garage space and the front end had already been painted. While the engine is out for overhaul I'll be sanding parts and using rust reformer. Will put it back together later and let a paint shop do the exterior hood, pan and exterior fenders. Plus still have to do the brakes, gas lines, under hood wiring etc.

Here it is...harbor freight 2 ton in too short of a garage.

Another thing is I've never done this before. Figured with all the parts off if I drop the motor will be less damage.

Hate to sound dumb but I don't know what a front clip is. Two things are driving me to take all the fenders, pans, small parts etc. off. One is I could only get the engine hoist to the side of the car, and had to take one fender off to reach the center above engine. Other is that there's a lot of rusty parts up front and I might as well derust and paint..side panels, cowl, horns, pan, everything while the engine is being overhauled.

More work today...found the hidden large studs that hold the rear of the fender on. Someone at factory left a large scribble. And yep, inside of fenders are gray, bottom of pan is green. Confused why wheels are so dark a green, rest of car is lighter. Going to need fender rubber strips and motor mounts..

My question would be how much dirt is getting into the engine and how does it get there, how to control that?

Can anyone recommend a good YouTube video for removing the engine? Seems enough videos for rebuilding a flathead. Also getting to feel like the shop manual I have doesn't have enough detail and pictures.

I changed the rear end of my 92 Dodge Dakota from a 3.2 to a 3.9 ratio. It has overdrive.. seemed to kick it up from 1800 at 55-60 to 2200 (from what I remember). If you have the 4.55 and with the hills I'd go with that. Not scientific, just a gut feeling. Especially with your comment about full throttle to make the hill. Maybe you can't cruise at 70-75 anymore, but 60-65 won't be that much change. Have you overhauled a Dodge rear before or are you paying to do it?

Reckon radiator does lean back in the mount. Went thru car sales and gleaned pics of the mount area.

Does anybody else have pictures of the top of the radiator support that shows the bow and how the radiator fits near it?

Does anybody have pictures of the relationship between the D24 radiator and the mount? Before I took my radiator out it looked like it was leaning backwards from the top of the mount. Plus I'd like to see what a mount looks like that's not bent all to h..ll.

You mean like this one? Brand new, used to hear the engine knocking..then sat since the late 1980s.

Still didn't work removing the fan. Not enough room for a socket, with a box end/open end you can remove the bolts on the wide spread part of the fan, but not the narrow part. Ended up taking out the bolts for the vertical support mounts to fender. That loosened the mount where my wife could lightly pry it forward 1/4 inch. Then radiator pulled out. Then I took the remaining fan bolts off.

Screen shot of the Oreilly battery info

No but thanks for the info. In the past I always measured the height, width and length needed to fit in the battery box (or space available) and orientation of the terminals + or - on left or right end on top. Then just took a small tape measure to the battery store and measured, getting the highest Amp battery I could.

Yep...I'm planning to take all the parts off separately, derust and paint except the fender exteriors and rewire engine area. I have another parts car that I might get another radiator support. For most of the work I have another thread I'll put posts on. Just thought this was funny..how NOT to do it. Taking pictures so I can get it back together. Unfortunately don't have anyone to help me lift so even if I wanted to I couldn't pull it off in one piece. Plus nowhere to store it unless I empty the wife's shed.