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Bryan

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Everything posted by Bryan

  1. Bryan
    I can work on electronic stuff, just don't want it on my old car. As I told my wife, with an old car, if you check the fan belts and tires, and nothing's been making noise like the motor or wheels, usually you can go on a trip and make it back home. With new cars there's never a guarantee. One of 10 sensors might go out and you're stranded. I've even repaired the CDI on neighbor's KVF 400 Kawasaki 4 wheeler. See pictures... didn't mean to be gruff...was just not wanting a war to break out like the oil types or headers wars..
  2. Bryan
    And I'm kinda tired of solid state electronics on my 92 Dakota..perfect motor...stalls randomly...same crap was on my step mother's Buick...MAF sensor...same crap on my nephew's Mitsubishi..crank sensor.. no..not really.
  3. Bryan
    Not really..I'm not trying to do a lot of upgrades right now. I know about Petronix and other stuff, alternators, etc. Just want to get the motor overhauled and get it running. Later I might do improvements. Probably just be putting around the local area, no high class car shows 300 miles away.
  4. Bryan
    Did it have an overheating problem before when it ran X years ago? How did the D shaped water distribution tube look when you replaced the water pump? See any deposits?
  5. Bryan

    Weekend work

    Bryan replied to Sniper's topic in P15-D24 Forum

    How much did you have to grind off?
  6. Bryan
    I wrote an email to Standard to see what they would say about the SS-549 being listed for the 1948 Dodge. If nothing else I'll get the 544A and paint it black. I went thru earlier models (and saw foot starts) and later ones (totally different).. so there's only a couple that would work.
  7. Bryan
    This looks more like mine. Wonder if the orientation matters?
  8. Bryan
    Yep, that's the hood latch cable. I'm removing the whole front end fenders and panels. All will be reassembled. Already buying cloth repro wire and will get heat shrink tubing. Plus I'm going to use slightly larger wires
  9. Bryan
    Standard's own site says it's 12V - so that settles it. They have others like SS 544 that are 6V, but no SS548.
  10. Bryan
    Still researching.. a lot of other sites listing same SS-549 solenoid. O'reilly site says its 6V. Starter Solenoid - 1948 Dodge Deluxe | O'Reilly Auto Parts (oreillyauto.com)
  11. Bryan
    Funny about the generator and positive ground. My father use to do something simple to "polarize the generator"..quickly shorting 2 terminals but I forgot. Heading off to church, will be back in an hour.
  12. Bryan
    Thanks a bunch..didn't notice that until I looked at the "info" details section. Will buy the correct one
  13. Bryan
    I'm going to pull my engine but looking at my rusted solenoid, horn relay and dimmer switch wondering if I should go ahead and buy new ones? On Rock Auto the "Standard Motor' brand is about $18 each. Wondering if I should just try the existing ones out and replace later if they are defective, or buy new ones, which might not be as good as original.. My luck would be waiting several months, getting everything back together, Rock Auto stock being out then having to buy them at $50 each at one of the "specialty" sites.
  14. Bryan
    BWRebuild (devestechnet.com) and Garage Tech with Randy Rundle: Borg Warner R-10 and R-11 Overdrive Tech Tips...The Odds and Ends (fifthaveinternetgarage.blogspot.com) Garage Tech with Randy Rundle: Borg Warner R-10 and R-11 Overdrives Part Two (fifthaveinternetgarage.blogspot.com) don't know whether any of this helps..
  15. Bryan
    I wonder how much changing the ring and pinion ratio in the rear end would help instead of an overdrive. 4.1 seems high..my 1992 Dodge Dakota had a 3.2 in it, I changed it to 3.9 (first time ever), woos a little but not loud. Ring and pinion sets (for my truck) were about $300. Carrier & pinion bearings weren't that much.. I don't know much about the D24 Dodge rear ends..and if ring/pinions are available. Some things are doable yourself. Having the time, a clean space to work in and the proper tools.
  16. Bryan
    Done for today...
  17. Bryan
    More work today, still going to go back out..cold and windy. Driver's side fender - the dust protection (vertical pans) were in one piece and could not be taken off first like the passenger side..had to reach and take off the vertical bolts near the doors. Remove fender then pan. From the looks of the exteriors of the solenoid, horn relay and dimmer switch I wonder if I should just replace without even checking them later.
  18. Bryan
    Where during my teardown seeing a lot of tar paper or rubber gaskets separating the metal panels. Wouldn't hurt..my battery ground is down under the generator.
  19. Bryan
    I'm at that point right now. Looking at the schematics I might even run another wire to the park lights for later turn signals. I only have one yellow wire right now to each park light. Separate ground sounds good too.
  20. Bryan
    Took the battery and holder out. Started documenting wiring so I know where it goes later. Thinking about adding a connector at the firewall. Wiring is good a few inches out of firewall. Driver's side fender seems attached to engine dust panel.
  21. Bryan
    Here they are. under the back glass is different than at the seat and door bottoms. Back glass area seems the same as on the sides under the dash.
  22. Bryan
    I'll run out and take some pics...It's cold out there...42 in SC before December..
  23. Bryan
    Bottoms of mine 1948 Dodge..
  24. Bryan
    And the outside diameter of the heavy fitting is exactly 1 21/64" . The same as one of the freeze plugs. https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-20073-555-072.aspx
  25. Bryan
    Yeah..I got to stop thinking about it. Just noticed on a $156 order it was $34 shipping.plus not even impressed with the PCV valve that came with it. A lot of modern valves you can suck/blow on it and there is no air passing one way. This valve sounds like metal, blows one way no resistance and sucks with about 1/2 flow no matter what angle you hold it..
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