Bryan
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Posts
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Everything posted by Bryan
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Crud...looking around on my computer I forgot I had a detailed article how to remove and overhaul an engine. 9MB PDF that's too large to post. December 2001 issue of Auto Restorer..article by Curt McConnell.
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Got my load leveler and 2000 lb motor stand today from Harbor Freight. Beat the rain coming back. Still accumulating tools..
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I thought this was a useful article for DIY people. How to Check Bearing Clearances (k1technologies.com)
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You'll have to compete with mine when I get started again.. had eye surgery, booster shot, now a cold.. ordering parts and materials..?
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I'm looking at what you stated..seems there is some galvanic difference in 316 and carbon steel. Not bad with 316 but some. If I use it probably will grease the threads and maybe a thin insulating washer.
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Thanks. I'm going to replace all the wiring under the hood with cloth covered as near as possible to original, BUT I'm going to use some kind of waterproof connector where they all go into the firewall. Might not be original but all my under dash wiring is in perfect shape. All of the pans, aprons, etc I'm going to use flap wheels & wire brushes on my 4 1/2 grinder to get them somewhat smooth, then spray them with Rustoleum Rust Reformer. Let them cure 2 weeks then spray the side motor panels with black semi-gloss (Rustoleum) enamel. This isn't going to be a show car..but I've done well with spray painting before.
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Last checkup today for my eye - all okay and I can start working on my car again and mowing grass. Had a vitrectomy about 2 weeks ago (8 October) where they replaced the gel in my left eye. Had really banged my head hard a few years ago, had A LOT of floaters, not just the stringy ones, one was like looking through clear egg yolk. Now have crystal clear vision, no floaters.
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Engine Failed and Need Help With Bearing Identification
Bryan replied to TravisL17's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Dang, you're about to make me do my own engine if I pull it out and the knocking bearing and crank isn't that bad.. only problem it's been setting since the early 90s. -
Here's from my 1946-48 manual for Dodge.
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Uh, I could believe that. My son works in a factory where they manufacture clothes washers..you don't see a mistake on one machine..usually the new guy has done + 100 of them before it's caught..
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Yep, I didn't see any grade marking on any of the bolts I took off so I assumed it would be okay. Also the bolts I'm replacing were badly rusted, so using 316 stainless on most.
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Thanks, think I'm going to buy one anyway to aid in getting my motor out and putting the front end back together.
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About to work on the 48 D24.. Aha! You're the one with the videos.. They're great, well done. Yep, from someone else I just figured I need the parts manual, extra to my shop manual..
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Reduced Torque with Lubricated Bolts (engineeringtoolbox.com) and Bolt Torque Chart (repairengineering.com)
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Also with bolt holes on my Dakota new carrier, there were 2 sets of Ring gear holes. One for large bolts and one for smaller.
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Back on my laptop.. here's a link with same problem..https://www.pirate4x4.com/threads/ring-gear-bolts.791979/ I also found when I was torqueing my carrier caps and following the manual, there is a BIG difference between dry engineering torque specs and already lubricated bolt specs. Kept shaking my head at 100 ft/lbs in the book...the bolts were stopping at 60..glad I didn't snap them.. Here's pics of me honing the bolt holes..shiny crescent was high.
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When I was doing the R&P on my 1992 Dodge Dakota the instructions said to use red loctite on the bolts holding the ring to the carrier. Other directions were to use an arkansas stone to plane around the bolt holes before mounting, also to check carrier runout. Need to go to my other computer to post pics.
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I seem to remember from a motorcycle engine hop up book that longer intakes are more suited for lower rpms. Intakes are not to be polished mirror smooth..
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Hand brake adjustment 41 WC pickup
Bryan replied to Greg W 41 Dodge WC's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Maybe this would help...starting about 29 minute mark -
Usually I thought a bad accelerator pump just makes it bog momentarily. Try checking for leaks first, if none then might be float level.
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Was hoping for something like this for a 48 Dodge Transmission and Clutch Rebuild on a 1937 Plymouth Coupe Ep. 10, Part 1. #mopar #restore - YouTube
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I looked for that but only found a lady thumbing through a July 1953 PSM with loose commentary. You didn't mean Popular Mechanics?
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I have about 5 years ago laid out the garage slab soil base by hand and leveled it..your story was more fun ?.
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Wouldn't bother the timing or anything else unless you changed it. Bogging under a load sounds like a lean mixture, air leak or accelerator pump if nothing else was changed except carbs. If you hold the gas pedal steady does it bog up the hill? Does it bog momentarily and then regain when you press down on the gas? Was the less miles carb working before on an engine? Check for air leaks.. Was it pinging with the old carb and you changed the timing then, or pinged with the new carb?
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Yep, seen that one and about every motor tear down and reassemble of the motor..just not one up under the car getting stuff loose and where's the best place to take it apart. I don't remember having clutch or transmission problems in the 1980s ..but it's been sitting a long time. If I just want the engine overhauled, where's the easiest point to unhook it? Or are there things you would advise replacing anyway (like the clutch) if I'm pulling the motor?
