keithb7

Stopped in at a little local weekly hang out tonight. I made some new friends. Lots of interest in my Chrysler. Its running good. Not quite 100% though Probably 95%! Lol. I’m getting picky in my old age.

I took my rad to the rad shop for a full rebuild. Re-core. Paint. Test etc. Pre-insanity. 3 years ago. The cost was about $250 USD. While rad is out, if you don’t know the history of the water pump and distribution tube I’d say go for it. New belt too. While the belt is off, how’s the generator performance been? No better time.

Wow. Congrats. A big decision. I hope it works out very well for you. I’m pretty sure it will. I’m coming up to 1 year now after I made my career move. I still enjoy going to work every day.

I read earlier discussions that these super-chassis machines had many beefed-up parts that were not common to other Chryslers. They had a higher GVW rating leading to larger steering components. Brakes. Chassis parts etc. If I recall these larger parts were hard to come-by. As an example 5000 NY's may have been built in a certain year. Same year might have had 7 limos. Maybe another 7 special extended wheel base models. Taxi, sedamulance, etc...Consequently used parts may be made of unobtainum. Is this an accurate assessment?

I like the idea of an electric whirly-gig for my 38 Plymouth. I have to consider system voltage. At my current 6V, high speed 45A is quite a draw. Two generators would be required lol. We talk a fair bit about battery cable gage. I'd need 2 ought to the fan motor. A starter relay to run it.

Nice details. Thanks for taking the time to write it up.

For comparison interest if wanted. Last week I took these out of my recently rebuilt 237 engine.

When out cruising I keep an eye out for pic opportunities where you can’t tell if its 1938 or present day. I snap a pic and tweak it with an editor app. Its fun. Here’s one from this morning.

I could add turn signals. I have elected not to yet. I’ve not found front indicator lamps I can live with yet. Ones that look sorta period correct for my Plymouth. Will consider researching again. Its not the performance of the wiper action that is a problem. Its finding good, correct vacuum motor rebuild kits to rebuild them. Not too easy to get. I could send them to “the known specialists” to be reconditioned. I contacted a few. Replies are weary. Doubtful they could rebuild. “Low chance” I was told. Finding a good used wiper motor that works? Taking your chances on ebay used, and they want a gold nuggets in trade. Been throwing good money at other parts that weren’t right or as advertised. Getting gun shy. Keeping my eyes and options open. 6V old volkswagon wiper motors may work. They need to sit up behind the head liner though. Another hurdle to consider.

3 Things I point out to people, that I quite like about the car: 1. Split engine hood 2. Split Rear Window 3. Suicide rear doors The period design. Bolt on round fenders. Cab shape, narrower front seat. Torpedo head lights. Foot starter. The mostly stock condition of the systems & components. 6V + ground. Vacuum wipers. Generator. 3 speed manual. Stock brakes. The 2nd half of the 30's was a great era in my opinion. I've got all the features I want in a car. Cab heater, synchros, full pressure engine oil system. Radio.I can hit 55-60 mph on the hi-ways. Decent brakes and lighting. It does not have all the stuff I don't want. Electric things all over. Power steering. A V8 . A/C. I like it's simplicity. It's quaint. Unique. Powerful enough. Fun. Just right for me. What do I miss? Electric wipers. Turn signals. If I had those 2 things it would be all I really need in a car. I saw it for sale for a reasonable price. I liked the torpedo head lights. I could not say no. '38 Mopars are the year for me. I also have my '38 Chrysler. It's a little more fancy and has OD. Right on the edge of big changes in car design.

Marg attracted some friendly strangers tonight. They confidently called my car a “Mayflower” a couple of times during our discussion. Due to the ship logo I assume. Was that a thing back in the day? Did a lot of folks refer to these as Mayflower models? One fellow assumed I was running upgraded 12V. That I’d dropped in a V8. He looked at the tires and said “Running glass plys hey.” “Nope. Bias tires. Original size too. As she would have been new. Original 6V. Works great. No complaints”, I replied. I opened the split hood…Silence. I waited for him to speak first. “Very nice” he replied. “Clean and tight.” He praised my efforts to care for this car. “Take care of it” he said. He progressed around all 4 corners. Inspecting. Commenting on the “good old Detroit iron”. We talked about the maintenance and repairs I had done to make my Plymouth reliable and road worthy. As we parted, he seemed satisfied. Content with story that unfolded. I think we got a passing grade. Here we are, trying to play nice with modern contraptions. 99,903 miles.

Just so I understand: engine in car tranny removed Pressure plate & clutch removed flywheel removed bell housing remained in place? rear crank main cap not removed? Rear 2 pc neoprene seal installed. How fun was it trying to lift that fly wheel back in place? I’m imagining laying on my back under the car while trying to thread the mounting hardware. I figure a guy has got to get creative depending on the model of car. My ‘38 I plan to take the floor pans out. Probably the bell housing too. Block and jack up the rear engine. Have a helper up top to assist with the flywheel and install of bolts. That flywheel can only mount one way. The bolt holes are not evenly spaced. Its what? 70 lbs? Some fun, huh Bambi? A shop hoist has its benefits.

A cool little elbow for the cab heater circuit. Be sure to seal the threads.

Cool info. Thanks for finding it LazyK. So about 106 psi at sea level, nets me 100 psi at my home at 2000 ft. Altitude (ft) Correction Factor Altitude (ft) Correction Factor 500 .987 3500 .907 1000 .971 4000 .888 1500 .960 4500 .880 2000 .943 5000 .862 2500 .933 5500 .853 3000 .915 6000 .836

I believe elevation makes a difference. How much? I don’t know. The density of air is higher at sea level. Pushing down so to speak. A layer of air that is 2000 feet thicker than up here at my elevation. It makes sense to me more air could be packed into the cylinder at sea level. Sort of a natural boost. I also agree my rings are likely not fully seated yet. 300-ish miles so far.

I have had a K&D Tools compressor for 30 years. Works quite well. I am curious what you measured for good verified compression? My recently rebuilt 237 engine has about 300 miles on it. 100 psi, dry test, across all. I am at about 2000 ft above sea level.

I’d be open to meeting up there if you want a second set of eyes. If do, PM me. I like Keremeos. Good excuse to go. Keith

Is it in my neck of the woods @harmony? I could probably be coerced to go look at it on your behalf before you make the big trip. At the least, meet you there.

Out for errands today. A couple fine folks approached to discuss my Plymouth. One fellow followed me until I parked. He was quite interested in learning where I bought the car and how long I’d owned it. His Dad had one just like mine he said. The car was sold when his Dad passed. Mine was not it. He was happy to see it though. Another fellow at Costco parking lot chased me down. “What make is it?” as many folks ask. I must admit they certainly didn’t splash big emblems on these old Mopars. Just the little ship on the trunk. The little ship on top the rad nose cone. He was pretty fascinated with all the mechanical repairs I’d done. Big grins. I told him the best part about the car was all the strangers it attracts. I get to meet and chat with them about my hobby. He liked that comment. 99,882 miles.

As the car slows down, engine at idle spec, the rotary switch closes based on driveshaft speed. I talk about this switch in the video here. The silver switch contacts need to be clean. Do not attempt to clean them with any abrasives. The proper amount of oil pressure is also required to overcome the shift fork spring. The oil pump is driven off ground speed as well. Would be worth your while to check both. Also all wiring connections. Clean, grease & oil free. Tight.

I never see these cool coupes around these parts. This one happens to be about a 5 hr drive from me. The owner is 18, he's going to make it his own. Glad to see a kid taking an interest in the hobby. But a little sad too, seeing it heavily modified. I think I'll send him a message, ask what he's doing with the engine. What did these have? 218? If made in Canada maybe a 25" 226 ci.

Who made your flared fitting? There are techniques to be followed then flaring lines, or they are prone to leaking.

At a swamp meet in Vancouver in 2019 before “Lucky-19” there was a vendor with stacks of commercial sized backing sheets. Set up for a high volume bakery. Pretty good size. Like 3 ft x 2.5 feet or so. I bought one for my drooling flathead episodes. Think is was $15. It has a pattern of round circles reset in the base. For hamburger buns I suspect. Catches up everything nicely. Problem is sometimes I use it in the driveway. It also collects pollen, pine needles, pine cones, what have you, in the oil. I cannot say I haven’t driven over the edges once in a while. Its sturdy. I works great! Swap meet seller knows his market well.

$4500 seems a little cheap to me for a thorough rebuild. When you add up all the parts and the labor. Not sure how a shop can do it for $4500 and make a profit. Yet there are many levels to rebuilding an engine. People don't do it all the same. Some replace many parts with new. Others choose to re-use more parts. I am not aware of a complete engine rebuild kit available. Parts usually end up coming from various manufacturers. Retailers will source them and sell them to you. Andy Bernbaum and Vintage Power Wagons offer all the various parts, but no rebuild kit that I am aware of. The 265 is a coveted engine by many here. It's a good one to drop in a smaller lighter car for an instant performance boost.

My recent 1953 year engine rebuild had option #1. I bought the Fel-Pro version. BS-6300. I have a leak. I had used a little RTV sparingly at the end butts. Perhaps its the pan gasket leaking in a corner. Hard to tell exactly. I do notice if I park on a down hill slope, no sign of a drip on the asphalt under rear of engine.