keithb7

For more confusion: My 38 tranny looks the same as bottom pic. With balls and springs. I picked a 1937 Dodge tranny. It too has balls and springs. I was given a 53 Plymouth tranny. The synchros were the lever bar/ramp type #38 in your upper pic. 36,37, 39 parts were also identical in the 53 tranny. It seems they went back and forth with the two types maybe? The upper pic you show is definitely the column shift type tranny. It has the side window for the shift linkage. I suspect used up to 53/54-ish? I cannot prove, but suspect the complete synchro assembly from the 41 will slide right in and work with the 37-39 tranny. I suspect #56 in upper pic may have same outer dimensions as #61 in bottom pic. The inside different to accommodate the steel balls, or the tilting bar ramp type in the upper pic. I will go dig around see what I can find in my horde pile to compare. Anyone else tried swapping the parts out?

My laser thermometer has verified that my coolant temperature gauge is currently not accurate. It reads about 30F higher than actual. Saying that, I have completed a fair bit of cooling system work over the past year on one of my cars. I found: -My Block had about a 5” thick solid layer of scale and rust sitting on the entire floor of the block. Discovered when block would not drain at petcock. Cleaned it all out. -rad exterior partially gummed up with road grime. Limiting air flow. -old rad gummed up internally and leaking. Had it re-cored. Rebuilt rad completely. It was limiting water flow. -water pump age unknown. Looked like they brought it up from the titanic. Replaced it with new. -Discovered a lack of a thermostat. None present. Installed 170F. -water only in block. No coolant additives to slow down rust and scale build up. -Questionable rad cap. Replaced with new. -Old rad hoses from the 70’s. Tossed them. All new installed. Clamps too. -Leaking block expansion plugs. New. -Absence of splash pans engine shrouds. Reinstalled. My cooling system was in a terrible state. There was no way it could do any decent amount of cooling. Its now healthy. Just the temp gauge is out as mentioned. I’ll looking into it. I need to learn if they are tweak-able.

Re-Polarize the generator windings?

I'm glad to see you checking in Worden. I have noticed your absence here. Was hoping things were ok. I am happy to hear your family is doing well.

Well if the engine wasn’t quite broken-in, tonight we sure nudged it closer. We went out for dinner tonight. My mother-in-law in the back seat. My wife up front with me. I could feel the extra weight. The car’s suspension was smoother as the rear leaf springs earned their keep. Later we drove through main street down town. My son was walking out of a restaurant with his friends. He claimed that he actually didn’t even see my car. He just spotted the split rear window and the green as we were fading away. He knew it was my car. “Only one in Kamloops”, he said. He called us. “Hey guys, I’ve had a few, I sure could use a ride home!” We turned around to pick him up. Now we had a load! We were in the valley bottom. We meandered up, and up the hills to his place. I’m sure I’ve never worked my Plymouth harder. She did very well. She got a bit warmer, to be expected. But no trouble. It was a new driving experience. The car certainly drove differently. Steering and braking not as responsive. While driving I’m imagining a family of 6 or more getting around in 1940 in the very same car. Tonight I’m smug and satisfied. Definitely worth the time and effort to rebuild my engine to a 237. She purred into the garage tonight. Happy with the renewed spring in her step, and a purpose. 99,970 miles PS: I see now that my car’s 6V lights are more reliable than the new LED lights on the house.

Stopped in at a little local weekly hang out tonight. I made some new friends. Lots of interest in my Chrysler. Its running good. Not quite 100% though Probably 95%! Lol. I’m getting picky in my old age.

I took my rad to the rad shop for a full rebuild. Re-core. Paint. Test etc. Pre-insanity. 3 years ago. The cost was about $250 USD. While rad is out, if you don’t know the history of the water pump and distribution tube I’d say go for it. New belt too. While the belt is off, how’s the generator performance been? No better time.

Wow. Congrats. A big decision. I hope it works out very well for you. I’m pretty sure it will. I’m coming up to 1 year now after I made my career move. I still enjoy going to work every day.

I read earlier discussions that these super-chassis machines had many beefed-up parts that were not common to other Chryslers. They had a higher GVW rating leading to larger steering components. Brakes. Chassis parts etc. If I recall these larger parts were hard to come-by. As an example 5000 NY's may have been built in a certain year. Same year might have had 7 limos. Maybe another 7 special extended wheel base models. Taxi, sedamulance, etc...Consequently used parts may be made of unobtainum. Is this an accurate assessment?

I like the idea of an electric whirly-gig for my 38 Plymouth. I have to consider system voltage. At my current 6V, high speed 45A is quite a draw. Two generators would be required lol. We talk a fair bit about battery cable gage. I'd need 2 ought to the fan motor. A starter relay to run it.

Nice details. Thanks for taking the time to write it up.

For comparison interest if wanted. Last week I took these out of my recently rebuilt 237 engine.

When out cruising I keep an eye out for pic opportunities where you can’t tell if its 1938 or present day. I snap a pic and tweak it with an editor app. Its fun. Here’s one from this morning.

I could add turn signals. I have elected not to yet. I’ve not found front indicator lamps I can live with yet. Ones that look sorta period correct for my Plymouth. Will consider researching again. Its not the performance of the wiper action that is a problem. Its finding good, correct vacuum motor rebuild kits to rebuild them. Not too easy to get. I could send them to “the known specialists” to be reconditioned. I contacted a few. Replies are weary. Doubtful they could rebuild. “Low chance” I was told. Finding a good used wiper motor that works? Taking your chances on ebay used, and they want a gold nuggets in trade. Been throwing good money at other parts that weren’t right or as advertised. Getting gun shy. Keeping my eyes and options open. 6V old volkswagon wiper motors may work. They need to sit up behind the head liner though. Another hurdle to consider.

3 Things I point out to people, that I quite like about the car: 1. Split engine hood 2. Split Rear Window 3. Suicide rear doors The period design. Bolt on round fenders. Cab shape, narrower front seat. Torpedo head lights. Foot starter. The mostly stock condition of the systems & components. 6V + ground. Vacuum wipers. Generator. 3 speed manual. Stock brakes. The 2nd half of the 30's was a great era in my opinion. I've got all the features I want in a car. Cab heater, synchros, full pressure engine oil system. Radio.I can hit 55-60 mph on the hi-ways. Decent brakes and lighting. It does not have all the stuff I don't want. Electric things all over. Power steering. A V8 . A/C. I like it's simplicity. It's quaint. Unique. Powerful enough. Fun. Just right for me. What do I miss? Electric wipers. Turn signals. If I had those 2 things it would be all I really need in a car. I saw it for sale for a reasonable price. I liked the torpedo head lights. I could not say no. '38 Mopars are the year for me. I also have my '38 Chrysler. It's a little more fancy and has OD. Right on the edge of big changes in car design.

Marg attracted some friendly strangers tonight. They confidently called my car a “Mayflower” a couple of times during our discussion. Due to the ship logo I assume. Was that a thing back in the day? Did a lot of folks refer to these as Mayflower models? One fellow assumed I was running upgraded 12V. That I’d dropped in a V8. He looked at the tires and said “Running glass plys hey.” “Nope. Bias tires. Original size too. As she would have been new. Original 6V. Works great. No complaints”, I replied. I opened the split hood…Silence. I waited for him to speak first. “Very nice” he replied. “Clean and tight.” He praised my efforts to care for this car. “Take care of it” he said. He progressed around all 4 corners. Inspecting. Commenting on the “good old Detroit iron”. We talked about the maintenance and repairs I had done to make my Plymouth reliable and road worthy. As we parted, he seemed satisfied. Content with story that unfolded. I think we got a passing grade. Here we are, trying to play nice with modern contraptions. 99,903 miles.

Just so I understand: engine in car tranny removed Pressure plate & clutch removed flywheel removed bell housing remained in place? rear crank main cap not removed? Rear 2 pc neoprene seal installed. How fun was it trying to lift that fly wheel back in place? I’m imagining laying on my back under the car while trying to thread the mounting hardware. I figure a guy has got to get creative depending on the model of car. My ‘38 I plan to take the floor pans out. Probably the bell housing too. Block and jack up the rear engine. Have a helper up top to assist with the flywheel and install of bolts. That flywheel can only mount one way. The bolt holes are not evenly spaced. Its what? 70 lbs? Some fun, huh Bambi? A shop hoist has its benefits.

A cool little elbow for the cab heater circuit. Be sure to seal the threads.

Cool info. Thanks for finding it LazyK. So about 106 psi at sea level, nets me 100 psi at my home at 2000 ft. Altitude (ft) Correction Factor Altitude (ft) Correction Factor 500 .987 3500 .907 1000 .971 4000 .888 1500 .960 4500 .880 2000 .943 5000 .862 2500 .933 5500 .853 3000 .915 6000 .836

I believe elevation makes a difference. How much? I don’t know. The density of air is higher at sea level. Pushing down so to speak. A layer of air that is 2000 feet thicker than up here at my elevation. It makes sense to me more air could be packed into the cylinder at sea level. Sort of a natural boost. I also agree my rings are likely not fully seated yet. 300-ish miles so far.

I have had a K&D Tools compressor for 30 years. Works quite well. I am curious what you measured for good verified compression? My recently rebuilt 237 engine has about 300 miles on it. 100 psi, dry test, across all. I am at about 2000 ft above sea level.

I’d be open to meeting up there if you want a second set of eyes. If do, PM me. I like Keremeos. Good excuse to go. Keith

Is it in my neck of the woods @harmony? I could probably be coerced to go look at it on your behalf before you make the big trip. At the least, meet you there.

Out for errands today. A couple fine folks approached to discuss my Plymouth. One fellow followed me until I parked. He was quite interested in learning where I bought the car and how long I’d owned it. His Dad had one just like mine he said. The car was sold when his Dad passed. Mine was not it. He was happy to see it though. Another fellow at Costco parking lot chased me down. “What make is it?” as many folks ask. I must admit they certainly didn’t splash big emblems on these old Mopars. Just the little ship on the trunk. The little ship on top the rad nose cone. He was pretty fascinated with all the mechanical repairs I’d done. Big grins. I told him the best part about the car was all the strangers it attracts. I get to meet and chat with them about my hobby. He liked that comment. 99,882 miles.

As the car slows down, engine at idle spec, the rotary switch closes based on driveshaft speed. I talk about this switch in the video here. The silver switch contacts need to be clean. Do not attempt to clean them with any abrasives. The proper amount of oil pressure is also required to overcome the shift fork spring. The oil pump is driven off ground speed as well. Would be worth your while to check both. Also all wiring connections. Clean, grease & oil free. Tight.