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Ha, my son needs to build up his guns, mine can do the job lol.

Make sure your steering box is full of oil, I found mine empty a few years ago and filling it made the steering noticeably easier at slow speeds. If it leaks out slowly, mix a slurry of gear oil and bearing grease to the consistency of pancake batter and fill it up.

Nope, I'm not going down the fancy/original route. My biggest concern is parking, say in a tight spot which here in England is what you get in parking lots. Grabbing the steering wheel and muscling it is quite a workout.

Gee I'm thinking about putting p245 in the front to match the Rears

I don't think there is much to worry about as far as wear and tear. Skinnier tires will probably improve low speed and parking handling because they have a smaller contact patch with the pavement. I've read that bias-ply tires actually put more stress and strain on the steering and suspension components than radials, if so, then the components that were originally engineered for bias-ply would probably breathe a sigh of relief with radials. Story time - when I was working for the Border Patrol in west Texas, (early 1990's), we got a bunch of shiny new Ford Broncos for patrol vehicles that were delivered with radial tires. Border Patrol operations go through tires rather quickly. Someone got the bright idea that we could save money by buying a truck load of bias-ply tires to replace the radials when it came time. Bias-plies at the time being notably less expensive than radials. That idea drastically shortened the service life of those Broncos. Where usually a cruiser could go a normal 4 or 5 years of service with no major issues, just about every one of those Broncos had to have the steering rebuilt at least once, suspension components replaced, and they all developed body cracks. Only lasted 2 or 3 years. Moral of the story being that those Broncos were engineered for radials, running bias-ply tires destroyed them.

Tucker on display for the buying public...low miles

I always just push the panel in by hand and use needle nose pliers to insert the pin. It’s finicky but doable.

I had the same experience with that spring in the seal popping out. I posted a topic on that some time ago on here. I got lucky and just as I was about to slide in the axle I spotted something shinny in the differential tube there that confused me. Sure enough it was that spring. Wow! what a job getting it back in to the seal. On the other side, before driving in the seal, I coated the spring with Lucas Red & Tacky and then in addition I also wrapped tape from the inside of the seal to the outside of the seal in about 4 places to make sure it wouldn't want to pop out.

Marty C, Precisely, Marty, your tiny piston finally unsticks and drops down in your Carburetor Kickdown. Like your Manual says When you upshift everything is up, when you downshift everything is down. Try to see instead of replacing everything (Which is now big bucks) on your Transmission, Take your Carburetor apart and free up that small Kickdown Piston. The Transmission will only do what the Carburetor tells it to. Or do not, its your car drive it the way you like to. We are talking less than an hours maintenance work here. Tom

I always bring this up when people are working on the rear end. Check the vent and make sure it's clear. If it's plugged it will force the grease through the new seals and onto your new brakes when it heats up. I found this out the hard way when I had to replace the new brakes I had installed a month earlier.

Check the metal tag that still might be attached to the generator and or starter motor. The color of the tag should be red and this indicates that it is 6 volt. If the tag has a green background color then it is 12 volt. Also same with the volt regulator. Verify and double check all of these prior to installing the battery. I would think that the car was never converted to 12 volt. You will also need to purchase a drum puller to get the rear drums off the tapered axle. When you get to the point of doing this contact us again so we can walk you through the process. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I would suggest starting your own thread over on the truck side. And I agree with the last reply. Get it running on a gas can before diving into tank replacement

Congratulations on the truck and welcome to the forum. There is a wealth of information among the collective members and eager willingness to be of help. Granted the tank may need to be replaced with the years gone by, but it may make more sense to check out the engine attempting to revive it. Use the search feature. Changing oil, filters, cleaning carburetor, checking spark plugs and coil are all on the typical list. A good battery and a starter that works you can fire it up with a dribble of gas into the carb just to see if it will run...only for a moment. After that there are many things to check out before it is ready for the road. Also check some of the posts that have many pages, meaning they have been running a long time, and read them from the beginning. All of us have been there to start! And others will add to this meager advice.

And I know that yard all got crushed a year back or so.