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Is this a problem you always had or did it just start happening? If the dual heater control valve hoses are not routed correctly the valve will not work the way it should. Or the heat(er) control valve on the engine block is either open or partially open allowing hot water to flow through the heater cores. Sometimes these valves and the control cable get rusty/corroded inside and do not operate properly. You may have to remove the valve, take it apart and clean and lubricate it. Sometimes the heat control and the defrost cables get hung up and won't allow you to change the air flow from the floor to the windshield for defrost. Also, I looked in my parts book and only saw a screen but no horsehair for the cowl vent.

Hah, i think the super power I got was forgetting everything I hear. Had a bit of trouble with anything not visual the past few days. A friend mentioned super powers. I said I already had them, how do you think I walked away? Lol

Thought I'd share in case anyone on this post is interested. I ended up using Slam Specialties 6 inch airbag (SS6 model) luckily it fit right in the frame's spring pocket without having to cut any of the frame out for clearance. I also cut out the raised spring anchor on the lower control arm and welded a plate to mount the airbag too. I'll post some pictures from my phone.

So two days ago I was struck by lightning while driving my van. Windows down , it just began to rain and about 30 seconds later felt my left arm hair raise and then BAM . It was like a flash bang grenade. I was blinded by light for 3-4 seconds and felt like I was in an oven.. My right arm was burned. Left was steaming where it was wet from rain. Next day had a severe case of welders flash and very sore muscles and joints from one arm through the other and across my back and shoulders. I found arc burns on my left rear rim and tire. Still suffering a bit of flash and headaches. My only regret is I wasn't doing 88mph at the time, I would have liked going back to November 5 1955.

Hi Ed; I like what you did there. I may do something similar with the rustic walnut I used for my bed. It lives outside all of the time and the water based poly I used has almost entirely lifted. I will probably tackle it sometime this fall.....but I don't want to disassemble it. Just clean up stain and then oil. Jeff

Looks like someone swapped on complete later style (60's MoPar) backing plates probably off a Plymouth or small Dodge. The picture appears to be the drivers side so yes the E-brake cable goes to the rear...the longer shoe lining also to the rear. Also the top pivot pin as PA mentioned is on upside down plus the cable off the pivot.. The differential carrier case # 1141543/44 appears to be a 1936-50 all 6 cylinder cars ...Ply/Dodge/DeSoto and Chrysler. 1951-53 Plymouth's use carrier case # 1327816 Also the rear axle in your car probably has 10 spline axle shafts (which were used in all MoPar car models up to1952) unless someone has swapped 53 side gears into the rear end. As built new.... all 1953 Plymouth's used 16 spline axle shafts.

Should both be 8. No model used 10. HD springs were 9 or 7.

I tested the sending unit at the local garage. They had a digital meter but the lowest ohm setting was 200 ohms. But it read from 7 down to 2 while I was moving the float so I will assume it's good. Loosened and retightened the mounting screws and nuts on the back of the gas gauge. Same thing. Only reads full. One other thing. When I turn the key the dial bangs to full hard. Not gradual at all. I think 50mech is correct. If there are two coils that fight each other the one that pulls to the empty side is bad. A new gas gauge is about 35 dollars delivered on Ebay. Will be purchasing it shortly. Thanks for all the advice Jeff

Got the block tanked through a self service shop at work for $20.00 and 2 hours of my time. Just need the machine shop to do measurement on cylinders, honing, and measurements for bearings.

Here we go.

Oh okay....I couldn't see it in the video before....your 55 manual does show 3 wire flasher unit......

Glad you're OK. My wife was hit by lightning umpiring a softball game in El Paso once, I'd say she hasn't been right since, but she's always been a half bubble off plumb. Didn't get any worse, anyway. Same prescription, no burns or anything that needed patching, defibrillating, restart, etc., so the ER Doc just said to take Tylenol. She's a good barometer now, too. She's also the reason Texas schools won't do sports outside if there's lightning within five miles of the venue. I've been close to a lot of lightning strikes, never been hit, though. I was in the original USBP station at Ft. Hancock, TX when lightning hit the radio antenna during an "Old Testament" level thunderstorm. What a noise! And it fried every piece of electrical equipment in the building, came out of the radio base unit and punched a hole in the tile floor.

I used them on my 50. They are a thicker spring and they don’t compress as much. Overall, my car was a little lower than stock when installed. Maybe an inch. i think the old ones were just stretchy and bouncy and worn out. heres a pic of the height difference. Aerostar on the left. Stock on the right.

Been working all summer on my truck. Engine, trans, suspension, brakes, wheels and tires all done. Just cut in the cab, doors and fenders today.

So I was able to acquire the roof mounted radio out of the 1960 dodge 1 ton truck. i don’t think it’s the exact correct model 700 radio but it’s pretty close, and I think will look great in the Sweptside once the radio has been restored (as well as the truck!). my next quest will be to track down a correct looking roof antenna for it; the one on the 1 ton is long gone. I was told repos pop up from time to time on eBay; if anyone out there has a line on an antenna, let me know!

really hope to have you but, if the borders are closed, there is a potential for a few of the Canadian folks to pick up the pieces and gather above the border. I will put you in touch with the team up there and keep praying for a vaccine. Mark

One thing to add regarding the installation, always clean the threads in the block out. I bought a set of thread chasers recently just for my flathead work. Thread chasers are designed to clean and remove any burrs or nicks without undercutting the good threads. So you restore the threads to usefulness without weakening them. US made no less, which I always try to do. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DTEFSWY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ebony stain with two coats of flood deck oil. I was trying to protect it as much as possible while making it look old. Hoping it looks like someone dumped used motor oil on it like some guys used to.

Still a few hoops to jump thru before this is a done deal, but regardless, it has zero bearing on the Mopars I own as whatever is left of Chrysler hasn't supported them for a long time anyway and I am not likely to be a customer of anything new from anyone anymore.

What frightens me is that young people age 30 and down have no clue what they are driving. The new pickups are essentially one ton trucks with easy to drive controls. If one of them were to go down a road in a ‘50’s or earlier truck at 70 miles an hour, they would be scared to death!

Been a while since posting here, moved along a little with this 41, have stripped the bodywork off of the front end so that I could prepare it for a 1947 T142 engine trans that has been de-coked and tidied in readiness for fitting.Still can't embed Photos into text Primed, Frame with 2 coats of Rust-Oleum, 2 Coates John Deere Green in keeping with it's former life, plus the engine waiting to be fired up.

Few more updates from last week, engine trans is ready to go in, just got to clean up the frame, blast & spray, 3 coats Rustoleum, Firewall will be John Deere Green as it was in service. Rust repair to be completed on both sides of the cab, did they all go there?

Added some shiny stuff and some functional stuff...

More progress today. Unloaded the 315 and stripped and cleaned. Made a pile of stuff that will not be going back on and worked on painting. I didnt do the oil pan. Pretty sure I will need the front sump pan from the 270.

Few pics of my ride and a few other Dodge trucks from Viva Las Vegas 2017.

Thanks. They are actually 17x7 and with the different backspacing, they really fill out the wheel wells. I believe they are 225/60/17. Up front the 17x7 works the best because of the steering linkages. If you were so inclined, you could run 17x8 or even wider in the back with the right offset. There is plenty of room back there. As for the Hemi, that is supposed to be a stock 315 for a truck and is marked 56 or 57 on the block. I did find a picture of other 315's with the same double belt and pulley and generator setup.

Couple other scores for the new hemi.... Stock 4V Manifold Red Ram valve covers. Just need to strip and powder coat!

Plan A: Pick up a set of 270 Hemi heads and convert Poly engine to Hemi and continue to build the engine. Plan B: show up at the Hemi guys shop and add up the cost to finish the 270. End up purchasing a running 315 Hemi and then he threw in a stock 4V manifold and the correct stamped Red Ram valve covers.

I have a 48 so it should be similar. I bagged the front first and liked the ride so much that I'm in the process of doing the rear now. I've got it finished up by getting rid of the leaf springs and did a triangulated 4 link. I went with manual air valves because I really like the simplicity and reliability. Here are a few pics fully aired up and down. Don't mind the dust on the car. LOL.