Just some thing I need to say

[Normspeed]

You know you're making progress when you can go to a lighter hammer.

[John Mulders]

I just did not put back these half round thingies that seem to rub against the drum...way more space that way

John

[Plymouthy Adams]

Drums last longer also...

[littleman]

What if you didnt have a torch, or a BFH, would a burn out in reverse into a stone wall work???

[Don Jordan]

I got that sucker off -

I got a drum puller - hit it with a BFH - after a few turns the drum popped off.

I don't mean "popped" off like a cork gun or a champagne bottle. It popped off so loud that my wife heard it in the house and came out to see if I was okay. I almost peed in my pants. I don't remember who said to put the nut on the axle but thank you - it came off with such force without the nut on it I'm sure it would have gone through the wall.

I've got to tell you - there is something to "the proper tool for the proper job."

Next problem: the drum is bent. What will I hurt if I drive on it till I get a new one? The new one has to be rear/left. I called a place and they want $100 - is that about right?

My friend across the street says to find the high spot and slam it with a sledge hammer. I don't know about the science to that.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Get another drum- they don't straighten out too well! It will get hot and warp again even if you can get it straight.

Bob

[E.L Lane's 48]

While on the subject of drum removal, I was wondering if you remove the front drum the same way as you remove the rear.(with a puller). Also, when reinstalling the front drum how do you reseat it properly. (I know... another dum drum question...LOL)

Thanks,

Chris

[Don Jordan]

I haven't tackled the front drums yet - but here's the rear drum. I'm told all this grief is because it has a tapered shaft that locks the drum in. I took steel wool and cleaned it and put axle grease all over it.

[greg g]

Front drums come off by removing the castle nut and pulling the asembly off the hub. The easiest way is to leave the wheel/tire in the drum. Remove the dust cap, pull the cotter pin, loosen and remove the castle nut, and the washer behind it. Wiggle the tire wheel assembly it bit as this will push the outer bearing a bit so you can grabit and remove it. Then pull the tire wheel drum assembly off the spindle. The only hang up might be if there is a raised lip on the drum edge from wear that might hang up on the brake shoes.

[TodFitch]

While on the subject of drum removal' date=' I was wondering if you remove the front drum the same way as you remove the rear.(with a puller). Also, when reinstalling the front drum how do you reseat it properly. (I know... another dum drum question...LOL)

Thanks,

Chris [/quote']

At least on my 1933 and on the 1963 I used to have (so I think your 1940s/50s should be the same) removal of the front drum is pretty easy. All that is needed is small hand tools (wrench, pliers, something to pry grease cap with -- I use a large screwdriver):

1. Pry off the grease/dust cap.

2. Remove cotter pin, nut and washer.

3. Rock and/or pull on drum to loosen outer bearing.

4. Remove outer bearing

5. Pull off hub/drum. Should come easily by hand with no tools.

Inner bearing should stay in hub as it will be held in by the grease seal.

When installing, tighten nut until there is a little drag when spinning the drum to seat the bearings. Then back off the nut two slots on the castellation then turn to nearest cotter pin slot. When you insert a NEW cotter pin, bend back the ends enough so that there is clearance between them and the grease cap.

[James_Douglas]

FYI,

Some of you may remember that in 2002 when I got the Desoto the left rear drum would not come off. Pro puller, heat, hammer, impact at 120 PSI,nothing...

I created a plastic cup that went around the end of the axle and the end of the drum and created a seal. I then drilled a 1/32" hole in the top of the plastic. I then injected penitrating fluid into the cup.

I did this for two days and let it soak well. The cup allows fluid to get all around the taper.

On the 3rd day, I hit it with the puller and a hammer and it came right off.

James

[E.L Lane's 48]

Thanks for the info on the front drums. I had heard the horror stories about rear drum removal,and what a pain it was. To my suprise they came off relatively easy considering the car had been sitting for 20 plus years!

By the way,I just wanted to say that there is alot of helpfull advice floating around at this forum and I appreciate it as I am restoring my grandfathers first car(1948 plymouth SD)

Thanks again,

Chris:)

[David Mac]

Can anyone explain the correct procedure for tightening the front drum to the axle. i.e. how tight, do you back it off etc.

Thanks

David Mac

[David Mac]

Norm

I can't seem to find the thread you mentioned. What was the subject of the thread?

Thanks

David Mac

[Young Ed]

Its this same thread just an earlier post.

[David Mac]

Ahhh, there it is, Thanks

David Mac

[Young Ed]

Why would you use a puller on the front? They come off just by hand with or without the wheel attached. Only vehicles with serious brake issues might need a puller on the fronts. Those are things like the 40 ply truck we bought that had been sitting in a junkyard for 50 years.

[Don Coatney]

Norm;

Have you ever pulled the front drums all by yourself? Puller is not required.

[Don Coatney]

Yes Don' date=' puller still makes it easier.[/quote']

Unless the brake shoes are tight against the drum, the drum falls off. No puller required. When was the firsr/last time you actually did this all by yourself?

[Allan Faust]

I am also an Elk!!!

Dennis:rolleyes:

We got moose up here.... that good enough for me to be one too!!!!

Welcome aboard hardly....

Allan

[Young Ed]

The hub and drum is pretty light too until you stick a puller on it