Rebuilt Engine Storage

[bacelaw]

Hi all:  I have a fresh rebuild 230 flathead.  I don't plan on installing it for years.  Would you rather store it outside in a shed (complete), or disassemble and keep parts in a heated basement shop and treat the bores with penetrating oil?

 

 

 

 

[Tom Skinner]

With or without the heated storage I would use penetrating oil and seal it in plastic best I could. 

It is your call, I always stored extra engines and Transmissions in a corner of my Garage, of course I never had more than 1 or 2 in a corner.

 

 

[desoto1939]

I agree with Tom, Since you do not know when you are going to use the engine, and maybe never, Definately use penetrating oil in the engine. If it was me I would try to get the engine into your heated basement to also help eliminate any moisture and also the heated area of the basement will help with preventing any rust.  Then every several months then go down and had turn over the engine to keep the cylinder walls lubricated. Maybe put in some used sparkplugs or plugs the holes. If the holes are pluged then remove the plugs before you try to turnover the engine while in storage. Could also put in a use head gasket without any gasket sealer and thne tighen the head but to to full spec's just to seal the head and also lessen any rust issues.  If the head is tight you can always remove the head to check on the wals of the cylinders every so often. But good plans or mice and men go astray.

Also I would not wrap the engine in plastic because that kind of traps moisture, maybe a breathable cover like a blanket.

 

Rich 

Desoto1939@aol.com

[Plymouthy Adams]

most penetrating oil of commercial nature are loaded with alcohol-based thinners that dry out in short order and lever very little oil protection film behind and added to that the hygroscopic nature...not what I would recommend for long term storage.  

[kencombs]

I've stored a lot of enginss for several months, some for a year or two while working for my Dad.   Removed from wrecks, overhauled or rebuilt and stored until sold or installed.   Penetrating oils are not my first choice.   They are thin and designed to seep, not stick in place.

 

My goto was, and is, a fairly heavy weight engine oil.   Back in the day, I'd use STP to make it stickier.   pull the plugs put a small amount in each hole.   Turn it over by hand and repeat.  PUT THE PLUGS BACK IN.   Also plug all openings that connect the outside to the inside.  Intake, exhaust, oil fill, breather tube etc.  You do not want atmospheric moisture to access the inside of the engine.   Always worked for me.   

 

I have known of guys doing nothing and the engine was fine months later.   Others found the rings stuck to the cylinder walls due to a fine film of rust.  

 

keep it dry, either wrap well or keep inside under cover.

[Dan Hiebert]

Ditto kencombs' recommendations.  I have not stored an engine for more than a month or two, but I have several friends who have stored engines over long periods of time, and that is what they all did to preserve their engines.  The only variations were exactly what oil to use, they used some sort of engine oil and never considered using penetrating oil.  I would not recommend penetrating oil for the reasons already stated.  There are companies that make oils specifically for preserving stuff in storage if you're so inclined to go that route, but that is probably unnecessary overkill.  The prime enemy of storing machinery for long periods is moisture/condensation, followed closely by contaminants - to include wee critters and their detritus.  Wherever you store the engine, it should be in a relatively constant climate.  If you're in a humid area with four actual seasons, you shouldn't store it in a shed, even well-oiled and covered it will still get condensation on and in it.  My vote would be to get it in that basement in one piece and covered, with occasional manual rotations.  That will have the tertiary benefit of maybe being in the way and prompting quicker action with it.    

[Ivan_B]

Are we talking like 10+ years of storage? I would fill the whole thing completely with engine oil (including the cylinders and the cooling system) and close tight all the openings. And definitely do not keep it outside.

If you really want to go high-tech, consider vacuum storage (similar to what is done with guns) or a nitrogen-filled container.

Edited December 9 by Ivan_B

[bacelaw]

Thanks everyone.  Now that I have an extra rebuilt engine, I know I'll never need it - out of spite, my original engine will outlast me.  

 

I'm going to disassemble, treat the bores and crank with penetrating oil (or similar) and store everything inside the heated basement.  I know the conventional wisdom is to keep the motor complete, but it's easy to tear down these flatheads...once the crank is out, the pieces are much easier to move around.

 

Thanks as always!

[JerseyHarold]

I've heard the term 'fogging oil' used in reference to oil designed for long-term engine storage.  Might be worth looking into.

[Sam Buchanan]

Just as a datapoint, we sometimes need to "pickle" an engine in the aviation community for several years while an aircraft is being completed. All the openings in the engine are sealed and it is totally filled with oil. The type of oil isn't important, we usually just use the least expensive motor oil available. This eliminates internal components from having contact with air which removes the possibility of corrosion. The crankshaft is not rotated! These engines can cost $50-70K so this method is used since it has been found to be effective. If I needed to store one of our MoPar engines for several years I would consider the same method.

[Ivan_B]

2 hours ago, JerseyHarold said:

I've heard the term 'fogging oil' used in reference to oil designed for long-term engine storage.

That is used for seasonal storage, as far as I know. I have a can and do fog the cylinders if I need to store the car with no use for a few month.

 

2 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said:

If I needed to store one of our MoPar engines for several years I would consider the same method.

Exactly that.

 

16 hours ago, bacelaw said:

the pieces are much easier to move around.

Just don't loose anything 😂

Also, make sure that the whole thing is manageable, in case you are not around and someone else needs to move/use it.

Edited December 10 by Ivan_B

[soth122003]

If you want to store it outside, I would build a box to store it in and use a regular motor oil to "pickle it". Then put in a couple of moisture absorbing packs in the box and put the lid on tight and cover it. While the climate control is nice, Most places before the 70's, climate control was out of the elements in a room or shed, and the parts lasted for decades.

 

After all, look at how many barn finds or field finds there are and the engine usually needs only a little bit of TLC to get it running, despite spending years at the find sites. 

 

Joe Lee

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ivan_B]

5 hours ago, soth122003 said:

and the engine usually needs only a little bit of TLC to get it running

Probably not for long... Also, there are plenty of those that would not turn-over anymore 😅