Ticking noise when rivving up

[Pearsebln]

My Dodge Wayfarer makes a regular ticking noise when revving up.
It is not noticeable at idle or when cruising smoothly.
At first I thought it was a leaking manifold gasket, but even after searching hard I can't find a leak.
Now it occurs to me whether it might be 
It could be a knocking combustion, although it is too regular for that and also occurs during the warm-up phase, when knocking could be ruled out.
I recorded a video yesterday where you can hear it clearly.
Maybe someone has an idea
Greetings Olaf 

 

 

[motoMark]

Kind of sounds like an exhaust leak to me.

[FarmerJon]

Second on exhaust leak. Often exhaust manifold will gave its sealing face very eroded, warped and pitted. It could be leaking underneath or the backside where it would be hard to see.

 

ETA: check it for cracks if you have it off

Edited April 22 by FarmerJon

[busycoupe]

I had a cracked manifold that sounded like that.  When the engine warmed up the manifold expanded and sealed itself.  The break was on the ear at the front of the manifold.  I took it off and had it welded.

[Ivan_B]

I suspect that engine noises are best troubleshot from under the hood/underneath the car. Have someone step on the gas and listen 😉

[Pearsebln]

Thank you for your answers.
I have already ordered the manifold gasket.
I will check the manifold for defects.
It could be that the intake manifold has a crack.
The engine has only 17 inHG despite a precisely adjusted ignition and well-set carburetor

[Sam Buchanan]

Carefully check the junction between the intake and exhaust manifold at the heat riser. That gasket can go bad and the sealing surfaces can erode making sealing difficult. Be sure you use the procedure outlined in the service manual when you reassemble the manifolds.

[Sniper]

On 4/22/2024 at 1:44 PM, Pearsebln said:

The engine has only 17 inHG despite a precisely adjusted ignition and well-set carburetor

 

What is your altitude?  The acceptable vacuum value drops as you go higher in altitude.

[greg g]

Could it be exhaust heat riser flapping around? Wire it in open (rotated fully clock wise) and wire it there temporarily.  Might also be the flapper shaft leaking.  Remember if you decide to remove the manifold assembly, there are 13 fasteners holding it together.  When reinstalling, leave the four bolts holding the manifolds together just snugged.  They can then get a final tighten when finished tightening the 13 manifold nuts.  Another consideration when putting the manifolds on, tighten the fasteners in a spiral pattern starting in the middle and working outward to the ends.  Do not over tighten.  Snug them then add quarter turn, start and run the engine to operating temp.  When it has coold enough to work on, snug and quarter again from the center out. Then check the 4 on the heat riser.

 

These assemblies heat and cool at different rates, they need to be able to move as they do so.  Over tightening prevents this and leads to cracking.  Remember the magic number is 13 plus 4(heat riser)  When I did mine, I took an old Taiwan box end wrench took out a section of the box like a tubing wrench, and ground it thinner to make it easier to get the nuts that are partially obscured behind the exhaust casting.

Good luck.

 

 

[Bingster]

Do you have any enemies?

[Pearsebln]

My exaust heat riser is not in operation.
The previous owner left out the spring and the counterweight.
Unfortunately, I didn't get the parts either.
When I remove the manifold I will see if the flap is still there. The axle of the flap is also not there.
If the flap is removed and the holes are sealed, I will make a cover plate so that the intake manifold is not constantly heated.
But no exhaust gas comes out of the axle holes. So they're somehow shot 

[Pearsebln]

My altitude in Berlin is 34m (100ft?)

[Ivan_B]

If the vacuum meter is ok (check your other car) you probably have a leak somewhere.

[D35 Torpedo]

Disconnect and plug anything that is connected to the manifold and try again. Ie wipers and advance. I agree with greg g on everything else.

[Pearsebln]

Only the windshield wiper is connected to the intake manifold and I connect the vacuum gauge to this connection
The vacuum gauge is ok. I use it on all my cars.
 

[Ivan_B]

Actually, I just checked the vacuum diagnostic chart, it says that 17-21 is ok. So you might be still within specs.

Did you already do a compression check on it? 🤔

Edited April 26 by Ivan_B

[Pearsebln]

I will do a test soon, I have bought an engine meter compression recorder which will arrive soon.
But I already know that the engine doesn't have much compression.
Unfortunately I am also using a lot of oil

[Pearsebln]

Is it possible that the pressure relief valve can make such a noise?

[Ivan_B]

The one at the bottom right of the engine, for the oil pressure? I doubt it. If you have low compression, that could explain the low vacuum, according to the chart I posted.

[Tom Skinner]

Pearsebln,

Sometimes when a mechanical fuel pump is on the way out that happens also. Get a long handled screwdriver place the tip of it around the engine with your ear on the handle on the other end (with the engine running). You should locate or identify close to where the noise is (Old Mechanics trick). What ever you do don't get too close to the fan belt and blades or get hurt. Just reasonably locate the noise and go from there. Using oil usually means rings, valve guides worn or hopefully not bearings going, however, my guess is its something simpler like the fuel pump ticking. One more idea: have you changed your generator brushes lately? until they break in they will also cause the ticking your reffering to as well.

Viel Gluck und Grusse dich aus America

Tom

[keithb7]

Wondering if you have removed your  air filter assembly at the carb intake.  Put your each to the air intake at the top of the carb. Rev up the engine a little at the throttle linkage, using your hand. Is the ticking sound coming from the carb intake area? This indicates a non-sealing exhaust valve. I personally have had this happen. Then I performed a valve grind. 
 

Another time I had an exhaust leak at the manifold. Right where the exhaust  pipe bolts to it at the flange. Some high temp exhaust dope took care of that one. 

[Ivan_B]

I just finished doing some work, which included fixing an exhaust leak at the manifold/pipe flange. I tell you what, the car sounds very different, now. I no longer hear "chatter" when accelerating. I've had an aftermarket flat flange, in there, and that thing must've been leaking all over the place. The only reason I noticed it is because I had to remove it, and determined that it would not seal afterwards. Feel around that junction, with your hand, with the cold engine running.