Setting timing 1949 Special Deluxe. (Pointer MIA)

[Oliver Klozoff]

Cara chugging badly after running smoothly for a few test drives. It seems to be getting fuel. Never set the timing so figured we'd do that. 

 

Click the link. According to the manual there's a pointer....am I blind or is it gone?? If it's there can you circle it and repost the pic plz?

 

 

 

https://imgur.com/a/fOfAt7X

[Bryan G]

The timing mark on mine was messed up to the point of being indecipherable, so I just hooked up a vacuum gauge and set the timing for maximum and tweaked it slightly from there. I had to dial back just a bit to eliminate spark knock on heavy acceleration. Really, you could get by with just experimenting to find the maximum advance without any extreme knocking. The cheapest modern gasoline is so much better than what these engines were designed for (octane wise) that they will run well over a fairly wide gamut.

[Los_Control]

 

[DJK]

Should check your points with a dwell meter before checking your timing.

[bartenderfloyd]

Here's a pic of my 1950. You can clearly see the pointer. The timing marks were faded.

[Oliver Klozoff]

1 hour ago, bartenderfloyd said:

Here's a pic of my 1950. You can clearly see the pointer. The timing marks were faded.

So where's mine??? Can they break off? I mean, I suppose anything is possible...but is that a thing they go missing?

[Oliver Klozoff]

3 hours ago, DJK said:

Should check your points with a dwell meter before checking your timing.

Ah yeah thanks for the reminder, never did that either

[Oliver Klozoff]

13 hours ago, Bryan G said:

The timing mark on mine was messed up to the point of being indecipherable, so I just hooked up a vacuum gauge and set the timing for maximum and tweaked it slightly from there. I had to dial back just a bit to eliminate spark knock on heavy acceleration. Really, you could get by with just experimenting to find the maximum advance without any extreme knocking. The cheapest modern gasoline is so much better than what these engines were designed for (octane wise) that they will run well over a fairly wide gamut.

 

It was running pretty smoothly then started chugging on the last test drive. I had a rough pull-out on a slight incline and almost stalled it (learning how to drive a standard trans and especially on this car isn't easy lol) after, chugging. Barely made it home. Noticed air in my add on in line fuel filter (pretty sure it's a K&N glass tube with replaceable filter) by carb. I think it's sucking air into the fuel line. Tightened the ends of the filter  Idles ok ish, but driving, can barely give it gas or it chugs itself out, sputtering, lurching. 

[FarmerJon]

The timing pointers just have a couple small spot welds. I suspect they break off fairly easily. 

Same as you, I found my car didn't have one when I went to adjust the timing.

 

However, it is unlikely that your timing changed and is causing your drivability issue.

 

As with most of these sorts of problems, the only way to find the solution is for you to check a dozen or so things, cleaning, adjusting and replacing as you go.  Sometimes it is just one thing causing the problem,  and other times it is a number of things all working together. 

 

The order I would start:

Pull top off carb, check free movement of step up piston, float height, spray out accessible passages.

Put vacuum gauge on it and note what it reads at idle, and when chugging. Check again as you go to see if improvements are made.

Clean+ regap points.

Check condenser. 

Check vacuum advance can for leak.

If distributor looks particularly rough inside, pull it to clean advance weights and points plate. 

Set timing to highest vacuum without pinging while driving.

Check, clean and regap spark plugs.

Check spark plug wires for shorts.

Check exhaust heat riser for free movement. 

Check fuel pump output and pressure.

If carb looks particularly rough or leaks after messing with it, rebuild it.

Adjust valves. 

Compression test.

 

Good luck!

 

 

 

 

[joecoozie]

Sounds like vapor lock or the fuel pump is suspect.

If you let the car cool off does it start and run good? If so, does it start to act up when it gets warmed up?

[Oliver Klozoff]

8 hours ago, joecoozie said:

Sounds like vapor lock or the fuel pump is suspect.

If you let the car cool off does it start and run good? If so, does it start to act up when it gets warmed up?

This has only happened twice, and yeah seems to be after it warms up. More tests may be needed. This second drive it def got worse as we drove further

[Bryan G]

I like the list FarmerJon made. My guesses: vapor lock, coil or condenser. 

[greg g]

Search the web for setting timing with a vacuum gauge.  Once you establish a setting your car likes, a bit of paint can be used to Mark the spot.  Not likely your timing changed unless you ran it with the distributor loose, or your vacuum advance diaphragm bit the dust.  Check the flex wire going to the points to make sure it isn't grounding due to lost or poor insulation.

[keithb7]

@Los_Control

 

Look at this little devil, just waiting for your next trip that is more than 30 mins from home on a 100+ degree day...

 

[Los_Control]

@keithb7 I saw the fan belt ..... was going to mention it but ..... thought just leave it alone.

 

I also like farmer list of first things to check ..... My first choice is points loosening up & closing .... or the plastic arm on the points wore away.

 

The air bubble in the bowl is maybe unusual. A small pin hole in the fuel line so it is sucking in air would cause the issue.

 

Could be many issues, just need to go through & verify all possibilities are covered ..... so less chance to happen again in the future.

 

[soth122003]

Said you had air in the filter by carb. Quick check is to run it and watch the filter. If it bubbles, check the fuel pump or the short rubber liner just before the fuel pump. Those lines, when old are prone to collapse and/or sucking air.

 

Joe Lee

[Sam Buchanan]

21 hours ago, Oliver Klozoff said:

 

It was running pretty smoothly then started chugging on the last test drive. I had a rough pull-out on a slight incline and almost stalled it (learning how to drive a standard trans and especially on this car isn't easy lol) after, chugging. Barely made it home. Noticed air in my add on in line fuel filter (pretty sure it's a K&N glass tube with replaceable filter) by carb. I think it's sucking air into the fuel line. Tightened the ends of the filter  Idles ok ish, but driving, can barely give it gas or it chugs itself out, sputtering, lurching. 

 

Just a note about the filter. I've used the glass tube filters and commonly saw air in the filter. This never caused drivability problems, even on an engine that saw frequent full-throttle.  ?

 

I suspect the orientation of the filter traps some air that never enters the fuel supply to the carb. As mentioned above if you see bubbles being introduced into the filter that would indicate a suction leak. But most likely your running problems aren't related to the filter.

[Oliver Klozoff]

14 hours ago, keithb7 said:

@Los_Control

 

Look at this little devil, just waiting for your next trip that is more than 30 mins from home on a 100+ degree day...

 

Look at what specifically?  The belt? Yeah it's rough, we're getting there tho

[Oliver Klozoff]

11 hours ago, soth122003 said:

Said you had air in the filter by carb. Quick check is to run it and watch the filter. If it bubbles, check the fuel pump or the short rubber liner just before the fuel pump. Those lines, when old are prone to collapse and/or sucking air.

 

Joe Lee

Have to go through the fuel line. There bits that have been replaced by rubber, some new metal lines, some original. Could be anywhere, may just need a 100% replacement 

[Los_Control]

I vote for nicop line for replacement (nickel/copper) Is what all the cool kids are using now days.

Very reasonable on price, will not rust, is pliable enough you can bend it by hand ... a tool still works better .... easier to make good flares ... better line all the way around.

Also is rated for fuel, brake, auto transmission use.

[DJK]

Often overlooked is the lack of lube on the points rubbing block!!!!

[D35 Torpedo]

If you pop the top of the carb off after running. There should be residual pressure behind the float needle. Push the float down and you will get a burst of fuel. If that doesn't happen, a small leak is present. But I suspect your problem will be in the dizzy. Good luck.

Edited July 10, 2023 by D35 Torpedo

[Oliver Klozoff]

Yesterday Pa put new jets in the carb and vac adjusted the timing, drove for about 20 mins all seemed well. I got up there today, we drove it about 4mi and got gas and air in the tires, about 10mi (hitting about 55 mph) to parts store for exhaust clamps (didn't have) then 2mi to another store. Started chugging as soon as we left there. Limped er home. Minimal bubbles in the fuel filter...but, why only when it's significantly hot? Ran great for the first few stops...

[soth122003]

Possible as the engine gets to operating temp, it causes the fuel lines close to the block to expand a bit and suck air through an itty bitty hole. That or that rubber line before the fuel pump is warmed up and may be degraded on the inside causing a small crack to suck air or the line itself to collapse due to increased demand from the fuel pump.

 

Joe Lee