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Barn find…sort of…not a Mopar


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Posted

Does it count as a barn find if it comes from my own shed?

 

My ‘53 B4B is done, our ‘67 Barracuda ‘Vert goes in for a top and interior, so I now have room in my big shed to start on my late FIL’s ‘54 Chevy 150 wagon. 
 

My FIL bought the car in ‘69 for $295. It was his favorite car to drive. Now, every member of the family wants to see it in all its glory once again after its 25yr barn-nap. 
 

And before anyone asks, it will be painted- no one in the family is a fan of the patina.
 

it’s a 235, Blue Flame, 3 on the tree - original drivetrain (and it’s staying).  No big dents, only light surface rust in the cracks of the crappy paint job, AND NO MICE!  However, when pressure washing I probably made 500+ mud daubers homeless. 
 

And the forum is not letting me add a photo. Will try that separately. 

  • Like 2
Posted

Nope. Will try again later from my computer. Site does not like my phone photos. 
 

Posted

Great looking car!  I see no rust or dents.  Even the chrome looks decent.   Should be a reasonably cheap redo.   That old lacquer paint is probably spider webbed but doesn't show in the pics.   FYI, I used some of the new fiber paint/rust stripping disks on my 4.5" grinder to strip my pickup.  Highly recommended.   Much better than sandpaper. Or, that nasty liquid stripper method.

 

About that 'reasonably cheap' comment above.  I was reading a discussion of upholstery costs on another board and was shocked at the going rates in some areas.

 

 

I may never do a sedan interior again!

Posted

Nice, that will be an awesome project!  I dunno, I think you have to run at least one family of mice out of the car for it to be a barn find.  

Posted

Does the middle seat fold down to form part of the cargo floor?  I looked on line, and it seems to do so.   The previous station wagon body, up to 1953, had removable seats.  A pain.  It also had a central light that pivoted when the tailgate was lowered.  The 54 had tail lights in the fenders. 

Posted

I’ll get some interior photos later today or most likely tomorrow. The backseat folds and tucks to make the cargo area larger. 
 

This is least optioned of the line. No radio or heater. Over the years, I have obtained a couple of radios that will need reworking. In the winter of 1980, I put a heater from a ‘52 Dodge truck in it - made my FIL’s day. 

Posted
3 hours ago, Sniper said:

 

Famous last words there folks, lol

Reasonable is a really open ended term ya know.   I had a reasonable estimate in my head for my pu.   About x I thought.   I’m at 2x, cost and time.   Still ‘reasonable’ as my definition has changed.  

Posted
7 minutes ago, kencombs said:

Still ‘reasonable’ as my definition has changed.  

 

Yes, I probably got more into my 51 than I bought it for and it's reasonable, to the extent that I have not and will not add up those costs.  Otherwise I would pull my hair out.

Posted (edited)

Interior photos, if the web decides to play nice with my phone. Looks like the web rolled the car…

9CB9EB09-488B-471D-9735-ED3915ADD343.jpeg

Edited by Bobacuda
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Maybe I can figure out how to get a couple of more posted. 

87E38ABD-53B0-4DAE-B841-223BA573874B.jpeg

Edited by Bobacuda
  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Several things this Chevy has taught me that make me appreciate my old Mopars even more.

1.   Carter B&B is a lot easier to clean and rebuild than a Rochester carb.

2.  To drop the gas tank, you have to drop the rear end by disconnecting the shackles. 
3.  The springs and shackles use rubber bushings that deteriorate, not greaseable bushings. 
4.  The axle does not bolt directly to the springs - it connects to a rubberized eye similar to the front springeye. No one makes that rear axle seat anymore, but Steele Rubber will rebuild the pair for $300.  I’ll try to post a photo. 
image.jpeg.e8df03b1337d6a84d0103190b61fbb51.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted

I think I'd try to match up some urethane bushings before spending 300 bucks!   lots of them out there.  surely one can be found that can be cut to size,

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Got it started today!  Been about 28 yrs. 
 

New fuel tank, flush the line, new fuel pump, rebuild the carb, new coil & wires, clean plugs and sand the points. 
 

Blew acorns, rust, and degrading mud dauber nests out of the exhaust pipe. 
 

Brakes next!

  • Like 3
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

After working on this Chevy, I totally understand why the military preferred Mopars.  Easier to maintain. 
 

if you don’t know or agree, look up how to change the master cylinder in. 49-54 Chevy. The brake and clutch levers pivot in the MC.  Total SNAFU. And to make it worse, the Chevy does not have removable toe-boards. Lots of stuff in the way and no room to work. 

 

Changing the MC in an old Mope isn’t fun, but you can do it fairly easy on a dirt driveway.  I have this Chevy on a rack and 4 hrs later, the MC is still is not out. Good thing I’m retired. ?

 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Installed a new (Centric) MC, then had hell bleeding and adjusting the brakes.  That’s when I discovered the new MC leaks - dammit!

 

I live in a rural area, so I took a short test drive, squirting brake fluid every time I used them. 
 

Pretty sure the clutch and throwout are pretty much shot. The diff is quiet on acceleration, growls like a deranged junkyard dog on deceleration. My FIL was deaf and never heard this.

 

Oh boy, more weird GM engineering to learn about - the torque tube (no driveshaft).  

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

For those of you that have not experienced a torque tube, here are some photos.
 

There is a ball and trunion u-joint in the housing behind the trans. Inside that tube is a long axle-like shaft to connect the drive train. 

 

Want to remove the torque tube to remove the diff housing and pull the pumpkin? You have to open the diff and pull the axles first. 
 

Not shade tree mechanic friendly. and my phone flipped the photos - would be easier to pull if the car was on its roof…image.jpeg.eb3b32a77bf351ff00defe66eabf4d12.jpegimage.jpeg.84671607df98a8d3e1430949fb509a9a.jpeg
image.jpeg.b4adf2d175f14c9f903c7cd0d493ba0e.jpeg

Posted (edited)

I have NEVER understood why GM and Ford stayed with the torque tube so long. Absolutely no advantage to it.

 

Also don’t understand why Mopar stayed with Detroit universal joints for so long. A few of their cars did come with the spicer joint like my 1948 Canadian Dodge D25. Same joint as ‘57 Chev so very easy to find. 
 

49CB978E-B02E-4A34-8F0A-73C856AFDBCC.jpeg.aae047a3637c8d68567217727bc50f9d.jpeg

Edited by RobertKB
Posted

One car I bought when I was 15 years old, a 1962 Rambler. I paid $65 for it to a lady on my paper route.

The clutch/pressure plate was wasted. ..... What a pita to drop the rear end to remove the torque tube to then drop the transmission .... for a 15 year old kid.

I did get it done, did several things wrong in the process, I did drive it though. .... Then quickly sold it before it broke again.

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