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Everything posted by nonstop

  1. Did you relocate the front shocks? That took away the floaty feeling on the freeway (but also cracked my frame).
  2. I have done a whole conversion, adapting 10x2 1/2 rear Bendix brakes to the original rear end and it works well, but I have not tried using just the drum with the current Lockheed set up.
  3. Just throwing this out there as another possibility - are you sure it is the countershaft? Looking at the front of the trans, there looks to be a spot where the gasket did not make contact between the front bearing retainer and the countershaft. If oil is leaking from the front retainer, it can be running down the face of the transmission and accumulating in the countershaft bore, making it look like it is leaking from the countershaft. This is also below the oil return in the front bearing retainer. You might want to check the retainer gasket at the very least.
  4. You might want to talk to a radiator shop. A 4 core definitely adds more capacity, but can actually impede flow in some cases. An alternative might be a 2 core radiator with larger tubes. The larger tubes can actually increase surface area over a 4 core. I had an OT truck and went from a 4 core to a larger 2 core and noticed an improvement in cooling. Just one more thing to contemplate…
  5. I think mine came from Andy Bernbaum or Atlas Obsolete… It might be worth giving either of them a shot.
  6. Do you have a picture of it? How is it regulated ( internal or external)? It sounds like it MAY be full fielded, causing it to be charging all the time (just a guess).
  7. It looks like a 12 volt from 1956-on if it is a GJC-7012a. Is the tag red or green? The red tags are generally 6 volt.
  8. One of the generally easier ways to tell, is the tag red or green? Red is generally 6 volt while green is 12 volt. A quick check did not bring up anything for a GC-7012a, BUT brought up a GJC-7012a as a 12 volt generator from 1956 and later.
  9. Rock Auto has the E8012s, and it looks like it will ship to CA (I got just short of ordering it and was not refused), BUT they list it as 12 volt…..
  10. Before pulling the engine, check the valve adjustment. The ticking could be various things, but the easiest and cheapest solution is to make sure the valves are adjusted. I started down the same rabbit hole, and the valve adjustment was just what the engine needed. Also, could it be an exhaust leak?
  11. Do you have a volt meter or test light? Start with are you getting power to the coil? If no, then problem upstream. Pull the distributor and find number 1 tdc on compression. At this rate, based on the poor quality of ignition parts, you might want to try a new condenser and possibly new points and set the gap. Examine the small wires in the distributor and make sure they are not broken/frayed or otherwise grounding out (except for the ground). Reinstall the distributor with the rotor pointed at the number 1 cylinder and make sure all your wires are in the right firing order. You seem to be almost there without needing to get someone to come out. On a side note, on the timing video, idle seems high, and there is likely a chance you were into the mechanical advance at that point.
  12. I am on the wrong coast, but what is happening? Can you afford a slow systematic approach? It can maybe be diagnosed over the internet.
  13. Those are exactly what I am looking for! I have not used the PM feature either, but I think I just sent one off. Let me know if you do not get it. Thank you, Nick
  14. Thank you! I forgot I previously read that post. I was too busy with worst case scenario, I completely forgot about it! I am going to try to pull the top and have a look today, and fingers are crossed you are right. It would make my life a lot simpler! P.S. - I have a no pic or your truck saved on my phone from one of the first times I read that post, since it is what my truck is supposed to look like!
  15. Too bad you are so far away… I have a freshly machined crank and I think one that needs machining…. Not feasible to ship!
  16. That was my fear. I can find the 24 tooth ones, but not the 20 tooth….. I am thinking I might have to change the drive gear, synchro assembly, and second gear. What a pain and $$$$$! Is anybody aware of other options besides changing whole transmissions? Thanks!
  17. I did not think of that - what about a 14 bolt with redrilled hubs, or even a rear out of a fedex truck with the wide 6 bolt hubs? Just throwing things out there, not sure which ones could work…
  18. So, bringing this back - Pertronix said ground or voltage issue. It sounds like you have the ground taken care of. What is the voltage at the Pertronix? That very well could be the problem if this is the second one with the same dwell. I have tried Pertronix on a good number of cars, and currently only have it left on one. My opinion is that they are popular because aftermarket points and condensers are junk. Might want to keep an eye out for a Dyna-Flyte dual point conversion…..
  19. Might be time for a Ford 9 inch - they sell blank axle shafts and redrill drums. Might be easiest and most straight forward.
  20. Okay, I think I might try another route - does anyone have a parts diagram with numbers for a 1954 - up 3 speed truck transmission? I can get the synchro assembly and 2nd gear for these, just need a main drive gear. Am I overthinking this and doing something wrong? Thank you, Nick
  21. I used to be of the modify camp. Then I saw all the other modified cars and realized there are less and less stock (around my area). Each time you modify one, you lose appeal to a certain segment. With that said, I do not chastise or think no one should modify their car - it is YOUR car. Have fun with it. I just find I get more comments with it stock. I will make safety modifications - brakes and seatbelts, or period accessories (NOS Mopar pieces). And for me, there is a charm in driving an old car. I do not take the freeway much at all, so most of my driving is surface streets. I find my cars can hold their own there. The older I get, the less I want to rush. Again, to each their own, just make sure to have fun!
  22. My half ton is the same. I do not dare go faster than 60-65…
  23. Thank you, I have been looking, but striking out so far…..
  24. Hi all, Just thought I might pass along a quick little lesson I learned yesterday as a PSA… So my Royal with a Hemi has been blowing blue smoke after sustained highway runs, but not around town or in stop and go traffic. Well through deduction (and because it already happened before), I concluded I had a plugged oil return hole. After pulling off the valve cover on the side that was clogged last time, I was met with a head covered with sludge. I proceeded to clean it off best I could and then blow any loose stuff off (mess in itself). So now comes the time to clean the oil returns. I forgot there are only 2. I take out the gun cleaning kit. I run a .357 brush down the rear hole (like last time). It works pretty well. I move to the front. It is met with some resistance. After a little wiggling, it frees up and I pull the rod out - without the brush on the end. I briefly panic thinking the worst and I might have to do major surgery to get the brush out of an oil return passage. Long story short, I was able to get it pushed through and now have a barrel brush in the oil pan to be fished out at next oil change. Moral of the story - be careful what you shove down the oil holes!
  25. There are a few nos pumps on eBay right now, but they are a little pricey.
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