Carburator

[jgreg53]

Mike's carburetor has a replacement carb for the Carter bb. Their model number is M228. Has anyone tried it? There is a YouTube video on it.

[greg g]

Can you post the you tube link?

[Sam Buchanan]

N228

 

 

[Sniper]

Things I noticed is that the air cleaner will need to be replaced.  Throttle moves the opposite direction.  Sisson choke is out, have to go manual.  Don't think the height difference would be an issue.

 

All of it is addressable but it isn't a direct bolt in.

Edited March 20, 2022 by Sniper

[Booger]

A good B&B (original equipment) not the holy grail of carbs, but decades of good service. things do wear out (dont I know) but a klutz like me can rebuild one (3 tries) I think any one can. If its an upgrade go for it!

[Tom Skinner]

Is it a Ball and Ball EV1? I have one for sale on ebay - rebuilt right now under: 1946,1947,1948 Chrysler.

My handle is greycar56. I bought it for $85 10 years ago and rebuilt it with a NAPA Kit $63 recently.

I have it listed at $120. Works with a Sisson Choke 6 Volt.

Should be correct for 251 engines (250.6cu.in.).

Tom

[jgreg53]

I would like to see a list of carbs that would work on my 48.

[wagoneer]

7 hours ago, jgreg53 said:

I would like to see a list of carbs that would work on my 48.

If you have a fluid drive, you are basically down to the special version of bb1 or the stromberg that is on the in-line 8

[9 foot box]

   P15 cars used a D6G1 carburetor. I use a Walker 15021B rebuild kit. I would stay away from any carb with a dash pot or any wiring involved. They are for cars or trucks with a fluid drive coupling or any of the other types of transmissions. My Hollander book lists, besides the D6G1, a D6H1 and E9T1. Under fleet economy they list B6A1, B6U1, B6V1, B6W1 and a 590S. What carburetor do you have and what’s the problem you are having with it? 

Edited March 27, 2022 by 9 foot box

[jgreg53]

I have a Carter bb. Have rebuilt it twice.   In order to get the vacuum set right by the vacuum gauge, I have to turn the idle mixture screw  almost all the way in. Also, my idle adjustment screw is not even  touching the stop. So I can't change the idle speed 

 I also put new bushings in the throttle shaft.

[Sniper]

Disconnect the throttle linkage and see if your idle speed screw touches, if not, disconnect your choke and check the same.  Once you sort out why your idle speed screw doesn't touch you can adjust the idle mixture screw.

 

If your throttle blade is partly open you are probably running off the transition circuit, which is not affected by the idle mixture screw.

 

 

[jgreg53]

box. Are those numbers you listed all carters?

[9 foot box]

   Yes, they are all Carter numbers. I did look at some others that are on non fluid coupling standard transmissions, DTE1, DTE2, and F7T2. A couple Stromberg, 380261 replaces a 380248 and a 380245 manual choke. A 380246 Stromberg is automatic choke. The throttle plate has a bevel on the edges, when installed correct, you close the throttle plate to the bore and tighten the screws. Check for free movement. Rick D.

[jgreg53]

are they all a direct bolt on and linkage like I would need?

[9 foot box]

   I’m just giving you some grab bag guesses from a Hollander book. What carburetor do you have? Like Sniper mentioned, disconnect the linkage at the carburetor. Attach a spring, so it doesn’t go wide open when started. Lengthen the linkage on one or both of the rods, so the rod attaches at the carb, without changing the idle speed. You may have to readjust them both for full throttle movement. As mentioned, your idle mixture screw will not respond correct or at all, to any adjustment with the engine above 450-500 rpm. Any Carter carbs that I have, will work with original car or truck linkage. They will either push or pull the throttle lever. Rick D.

[Rick Michalik]

That replacement carburetor looks a lot like the Daytona universal carburetor sold by Carb Doctor out of Texas.  If it is, it is pretty much a Zenith 28/228 carburetor. I purchased one for my 37 IHC D2 so I could keep it on the road while I got parts and machining done on the original Zenith 23. 
 

Not a bad carb when compared to the worn out original.  (It is a universal so Venturi size, etc may not be exactly the same.). Setup was easy and it does the job.  As mentioned earlier, the choke is manual.  The Sisson won’t work.  The height is slightly shorter.  I thought the throttle shaft rotation was the same as on my D24 but didn’t spend much time comparing it to the Carter as I was more focused on the Zenith it was replacing.  I can see where the air cleaner might not clamp on also. 
 

If you need more info on the throttle rotation, I can verify it against the BB in my ‘48 but the folks here are very knowledgeable and usually catch that sort of thing right out of the box. 
 

best of luck

rick

[linus6948]

https://www.amazon.com/SherryBerg-carburateur-Carburetor-Replace-Rochester/dp/B075VQHC9C/ref=sr_1_3?crid=15SDWC271QOEU&keywords=Replacement+Carburetor+for+Rochester+B+-+N228&qid=1649276489&sprefix=replacement+carburetor+for+rochester+b+-+n228%2Caps%2C158&sr=8-3

 

[Rick Michalik]

I checked the throttle shaft rotation on the Daytona carb and it is counter clockwise just like the BB. It should work if you don’t need the automatic choke and can live with a different air cleaner.  The throttle lever is adjustable and can be clocked 360 degrees with respect to the blades.
The one above looks to be the same as the one I described above.  Much better price too!  

[Rick Michalik]

Looking more closely at the Amazon one, I noticed a non adjustable main jet and the throttle linkage is slightly different.  It probably still came from the same source. 

[jgreg53]

I found a guy who has a gold mine of used post war chrysler plymouth and dodge parts . I bought a Carter b and b from him. I got it mounted on the engine. I had to combine the two carbs to get the linkage to work. It ran a lot better. Pulling up to a traffic stop the engine dies. It started right back up.  I thought I may have some  trash left in the carb although I  took it apart and cleaned it up and blew out the passages. So I took it apart again blowing the thing out again. Any suggestions?

[Loren]

When I got my 49 I was told the mechanic that had maintained it since new had changed the B & B carburetor for a Stromberg.

It was his opinion that the Strombergs started better. I can’t verify that but this car does start very well.

I have noticed that Bendix Stromberg was really active in the replacement carb business. They sold their carbs for just about everything.

Now days there seems to be lots of NOS Strombergs on eBay where its hard to find good used B & B carbs.

The only issue is that the fuel inlet fitting is on the side instead of the end. Of course if you have a dual carb manifold the side fitting is easier to deal with.

I was able to score two NOS Strombergs from the same seller for a fair $150 each to use on either a reproduction Thickstun or an original Edmunds I have.

So I’d say one might want to look at the Stromberg carburetor BXUV-3 ( I think that’s the number ).

 

One unusual Plymouth carburetor I found in my travels was made in Israel called a “Levi-rator”.

In jest, it might have been a carburetor Jack Benny would have used on his Maxwell.

I can’t confirm if it was a high fuel economy model but it is kind of unusual.

Edited September 22, 2022 by Loren
Error in part number

[jgreg53]

Well that carb was a bust. I'm going to go back to the guy and try another one.  This one won't idle the accelerator jet was plugged up. Fixed that. The hole for the fuel line was stripped. Fixed that. Used propane to find a vacuum leak . Found none. Could the float level cause the stalling when I stop?

Edited September 26, 2022 by jgreg53