MarcDeSoto Posted March 2, 2022 Report Share Posted March 2, 2022 (edited) Tried to bleed my brakes today. Was getting a good hard pedal. But on the right rear bleeder valve, the fluid was coming from the base of the bleed valve. Aren't bleed valves supposed to be in two parts, one part to screw into the wheel cylinder and the other to crack the valve open? The problem is when you crack the valve, you have to turn it until fluid is pouring out of the base of valve, at the cylinder. Could that be right? ss Edited March 2, 2022 by MarcDeSoto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harmony Posted March 2, 2022 Report Share Posted March 2, 2022 (edited) Maybe it's just me Marc, but that bleeder nipple looks weird. It should be continuous thread. Looks like there is a spot without threads on it. No, the nipple is just one piece. I'll check to see if I took any pictures of one. Nope, looks like I didn't take a picture of one, but if nobody posts a picture of what it should look like, I can take a picture of a spare that I have kicking around the shop somewhere. Edited March 2, 2022 by harmony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harmony Posted March 2, 2022 Report Share Posted March 2, 2022 This picture I got from Mr. Google is what mine looks like. When googling I noticed that there is quite a few varieties. Some do have a gap, but usually between the threads and the hex part. But you're looks like after the hex part there are a few threads and then a gap and then more threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squirebill Posted March 2, 2022 Report Share Posted March 2, 2022 Looking at the picture submitted by harmony, there is a metal to metal seal at the taper on the end of the bleed fitting. When the fitting is opened the tapered seal is open and the brake fluid will take the path of least resistance to come out of the pressurized hydraulic system. If in your case the path of least resistance is around the threads then there is an incomplete bore through the bleed fitting or the bore is plugged some other way. A few years back I had a brass elbow in my stock that I used on a mechanical fuel pump outlet. I could get no fuel through the fuel pump. I suspected a bad fuel pump but on further examination I found that a mud dauber had blocked the port through the brass elbow. Live and learn. Best regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harmony Posted March 2, 2022 Report Share Posted March 2, 2022 squirebill has a good point that I overlooked about the nipple possibly being clogged. Try pushing air through that nipple. You should only have to crack it open about a quarter turn. The nipple still looks weird though. In the picture, is the nipple in tight, or is it loose? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcDeSoto Posted March 2, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2022 I'm only at bleed valve no. 2. We didn't have a problem with bleed valve no. 1, so I'll go and try to check it out more closely and blow air through it. Looking at the pic, I'm wondering what all those threads are doing out like that. Maybe it has to be screwed in further? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harmony Posted March 2, 2022 Report Share Posted March 2, 2022 17 minutes ago, MarcDeSoto said: I'm only at bleed valve no. 2. We didn't have a problem with bleed valve no. 1, so I'll go and try to check it out more closely and blow air through it. Looking at the pic, I'm wondering what all those threads are doing out like that. Maybe it has to be screwed in further? I don't have any pictures of my back wheel cylinders with the bleeder in tight, but if I recall there might be one or perhaps two threads showing when it is in tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcDeSoto Posted March 2, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2022 Harmony, I just went to the garage and unscrewed the bleed valve. I blew air through it and there was no blockage. I saw the jet off to the side that bleeds the air out. The big threads that you see must be for some other car as they do nothing on my car. I think my helper just cracked the valve a bit too far so that fluid started escaping out of the base. I've got a good hard pedal even though I haven't got to the front wheels yet. Thanks for all your help! Marc. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted March 2, 2022 Report Share Posted March 2, 2022 A couple bleeder styles... The rear one is like Marc's... Only the small threads are used. The upper larger rings are just that not threads...a modern day bleeder. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted March 2, 2022 Report Share Posted March 2, 2022 Teflon tape the threads, not the seat. The tape will seal the threads to the housing, preventing the leakage you are seeing, and will make removing them in the future so much easier. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted March 2, 2022 Report Share Posted March 2, 2022 (edited) i had a similar issue with a bleeder screw on my 39 Desoto. The bleeder screw was all they way in and closed. The screw was leaking around the threads. Put in a NOS style and the leaking stopped. But he is something real strange. The original style bleeder screw had a cap screw that acytually came out and then you lossened the bleader screw. These are no longer made. i found a brake speialist in Michegan that knew exacutly what I was describing with the cap bleeder screw. He was able to provide me with the correct bleeder screw with the proper angle or tape to match the wheel cylinder. So not all bleeder screws will have the proper taper for the Wheel cylinder. I will try to post this brake guys link to his webpage. The company is Called Brake Hoses Unlimited Brake Hoses Unlimited He is very good and will work with you to solve your brake issues. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Edited March 2, 2022 by desoto1939 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted March 2, 2022 Report Share Posted March 2, 2022 15 minutes ago, desoto1939 said: . . . But he is something real strange. The original style bleeder screw had a cap screw that acytually came out and then you lossened the bleader screw. These are no longer made. . . That “Bleeder screw dust cap” is a “1⁄4-28x5⁄16 Cad plated steel hexagon head cap screw” with a Chrysler part number of 123291. For what it is worth, I created a bleeder tool by drilling a hole through the middle of a 1/4-28 bolt, pressing in a piece of brass tubing and then attaching a hose to the tubing. Nearly as easy to use that and leave the original style bleeders in place as to use the more modern bleeders with the hose bib built into them. Also, for what it is worth, if you need to replace an old style bleeder and want to keep the look/function of the originals, it is pretty easy to drill out the modern hose bib bleeder screw and tap the hole for 1/4-28. I am not totally sure, but I think the later Chrysler part number 691471, which interchanges to NAPA part UP 6858, has the same seat taper and can be used. Or modified to match the originals. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted March 2, 2022 Report Share Posted March 2, 2022 I too have seen and bled cylinders of the two piece dsign...common in the 30's to very early 40's cars. New wheel cylinder bleeders from china sometimes are found to not seal up no matter how tight they are. The bleeder screw threads are not the seal...the tapered cone tip of the bleeder to the wheel cylinder seat is. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted March 2, 2022 Report Share Posted March 2, 2022 55 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said: I too have seen and bled cylinders of the two piece dsign...common in the 30's to very early 40's cars. New wheel cylinder bleeders from china sometimes are found to not seal up no matter how tight they are. The bleeder screw threads are not the seal...the tapered cone tip of the bleeder to the wheel cylinder seat is. Yes that was my issue the tapered end of the bleeder was not the same as in the wheel cylinder so the fluid would then weep out the bleeder screw via the threads. Have to watch what products you are using to repair our older cars. At least there are some quality people supplying quality products to help us keep these cars on the road. Rich Hartung 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcDeSoto Posted March 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2022 I got my brakes bled today and no more leaks. I noticed that when we bled the bottom cylinders on the front axle, there was almost no air bubbles and the pedal was very hard. But on the top cylinders, the pedal went down very easily. Is that normal? Maybe it's because the cylinder is on the bottom and the air goes up to the top? Anyway, I have a good hard pedal now. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squirebill Posted March 4, 2022 Report Share Posted March 4, 2022 Something seems odd about what is happening. Since the lower cylinder is connected to the upper cylinder with a tube, seems to me you would have a spongy pedal until all the air was bled out of the two cylinders and the tube. Having a very hard pedal when bleeding the lower cylinder and then a easy/soft pedal when bleeding the upper cylinder seems odd. Can't come up with a reason why this would happen but will ruminate on it. Just seems odd to me. Best regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joecoozie Posted March 4, 2022 Report Share Posted March 4, 2022 4 hours ago, MarcDeSoto said: I got my brakes bled today and no more leaks. I noticed that when we bled the bottom cylinders on the front axle, there was almost no air bubbles and the pedal was very hard. But on the top cylinders, the pedal went down very easily. Is that normal? Maybe it's because the cylinder is on the bottom and the air goes up to the top? Anyway, I have a good hard pedal now. When you say , "I have a good hard pedal now," do you mean that the pedal has no "travel" (for lack of a better word) when you press it? There should be some pedal "travel" before the pedal stops when stepping on it and it should not be "rock hard" without any "travel". If it is "rock hard" then there is something wrong. Possibly pressure build-up in the system, etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcDeSoto Posted March 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2022 I just came back from the garage where I checked my brake pedal travel. It goes down somewhere between 2.5 and 2.8 inches before the pedal gets real hard. Is that OK? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happy 46R Posted March 4, 2022 Report Share Posted March 4, 2022 Hi Marc, My Dodge manual shows total pedal travel to be between 1.75 to 2". I had my car to the garage today to bleed my brakes and set everything up. They noted there was excess travel in the rod that actuates the master cylinder piston (Free Play) and adjusted it as per the manual to the recommended 1/8 to 1/4" and the distance for the primary cup to cover the relief port to the 5/8 to 3/4" distance and the pedal travel to move the shoes to the drums of about 1 in. Not sure about a Desoto but must be similar I would think. Dave 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcDeSoto Posted March 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2022 So you're saying 2.5 inches of pedal travel before the brake pedal becomes hard is too excessive. I'll try to make the adjustment then. Marc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squirebill Posted March 4, 2022 Report Share Posted March 4, 2022 MarcDesoto: please search "bleeding brakes" by harmony on December 7,2021. His situation of bleeding sounds very similar to yours....very little fluid coming through. His situation was new cylinders that had rusted and seized. Regards 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted March 4, 2022 Report Share Posted March 4, 2022 (edited) The travel could also be that you still need to fine tune the gap between the toe and heel of each shoe. Most people get this soft pedal and they thik it is air in the line but the real reality is that the shoes are still out of proper adjustment. After putting on the drums did you perform a minor adjustment of each drum. I always do a minor adjustment with the top adjuster. Spin the wheel and then lockup the drum with the top adjuster and then back off till you hear a slight sound of the shoe dragging against the drum then do the same for the other shoe on the same drum. Will have to do this for all four brake drums. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Edited March 5, 2022 by desoto1939 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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