Heater valve replacement (generic Amazon sourced)

[Loren]

My car has the Mopar 100 series heater which has the pull knob dash control.

I got the original heater valve with the car and was told it leaks.

What the previous owner replaced the original with was a Ball Valve at the cylinder head.

I like being under the hood but I don't care to "dismount" every time I want to change the cabin temperature.

So...49 Plymouth heater valves are not on every venders shelf and if you found one it might be a little pricey.

Generic valves seem to cover almost all cable controlled heaters. One that I've bought a lot of are the "in-line" type, which have a hose barb on each end.

The cable on my heater was long enough for a valve mounted on the head and not much longer, so the in-line valve was out.

To keep it a clean installation I found a 90 degree design with pipe threads on one end and a hose barb on the other.

Once I got the valve I found it operates very nicely but... and you know there is always a "but".....the cable lever is "OFF" with the cable pulled out and "ON" with the cable pushed in.

Not a deal breaker ( for at least 3 months of the year lol )

Next issue, it would sit very close to the head...if you could screw it in but...you can't because the firewall is too close.

SO...You need a "Union"

Now I know what you are thinking because I thought it too. "I don't want some "cobby" plumbing union under the hood of my car!"

Besides just try and describe what a Union is to the average parts counter guy. Kids are smart nowadays and when you think they are looking for a part number they actually consulting Google for a photo of the thing they've never heard of.

While standing at the counter I saw the sign that read "We make Hydraulic Hoses"

So I asked do you have the fittings for those hoses? Yes most of them.

What I ended up with is a 37 degree flare with a 3/8 pipe thread end (male) and a captive nut mating female with a 3/8 pipe thread end (female).

It elevates the valve, allows you to position the valve exactly where it needs to go and best of all it is clean.

Amazon delivers to my little hide-away free so I use them a lot. Additionally they have photos and descriptions that I value for generic items. The valve is a Four Seasons p/n 74682 $52.78

 

Spark Plug Wire removed for photo

[OUTFXD]

Great write up! I happen to be looking to replace my (manual) Heat control valve and having adjustment inside the cab is an inspiring thought! 

 

I just need to figure out how to install a nob that looks reasonably factory.

 

You have given me much food for thought, Thank you!

 

edit :  any idea how universal Cable end knobs are?  Thinking of maybe trying to "fit" a factory "Heater" nob.

Edited January 20, 2022 by OUTFXD

[Loren]

When I need a cable I go to my speedometer repair shop.

They make custom ones for every purpose. One they could not make was an “Engine Stop” cable for bus that had to be 45 feet long. They ordered it from the manufacturer of the cable materials.

If you have the knob you want to use I am sure they can match it up. If nothing else they can re-thread it to the knob.

I am picky about cables. Seems like they never want to cooperate. When I replace a control cable I go for the best I can find. An extra few bucks is worth it when you don’t have to fight it every time you use it.

[DJK]

On my 52 Cranbrook, I was able to purchase the seal from Napa for the heater valve. #BK6601000

[Bryan]

Don't know if this helps but cheap enough. Ran across it while looking for pilot bushings.  Engine Head Heater Shutoff Valve - Vics Dodge Garage  Crud, just seen that it is a type without a cable.

Edited January 20, 2022 by Bryan
Didn't see it's not the cable type.

[TodFitch]

1 hour ago, Bryan said:

Don't know if this helps but cheap enough. Ran across it while looking for pilot bushings.  Engine Head Heater Shutoff Valve - Vics Dodge Garage  Crud, just seen that it is a type without a cable.

Been a while, but when I needed a heater shut off valve I simply went in to my local better auto supply and looked in their old paper catalogs for "truck heater parts". The one I bought looks very much like the one in your link.

 

Sadly, parts stores with the old folk behind the counter buried under paper catalogs are pretty rare nowadays. On the other hand, if you can come up with a competitor’s part number or an aftermarket brand part number they can usually match it.

[plymouthcranbrook]

On my 52 Cranbrook I bought a brand new heater valve for a 57 Chevy from a Chevy parts restoration company. Adjusted the hole in the firewall and put it right in. Like yours mine now is off at hot and hot at off but I will just have to route the cable from the other side and make it right. Some day…

[wagoneer]

How about any suggestions for a replacement for the day heater system ?

[James_Douglas]

One can take a look at this old thread to see what I did. Some 15 years ago. No leaks, works fine, 100% water cut off. The only thing I changed in the 15 was to add a positive stop so I cannot pull the cable too far and go over center on the ball valve. Stainless, never rusts...

 

 

James

[Los_Control]

I like that idea. @James_Douglas Your photo shown.

I have done the same thing using a brass ball valve from Ace Hardware.

Does not look period correct with the bright yellow handle. I have a few old brass hose bibs thinking I may adapt the handle to the modern ball valve. Would look closer to period correct.

I was concerned with connecting a cable to it, valve is fairly stiff. Would take a stout cable to not bend.

Then I thought maybe a rod with a lever under the dash & through the firewall ... similar to the cowl vent lever.

To be honest, I probably would turn it off in spring and never touch it again til December. So under the hood is fine.

 

Edited January 29, 2022 by Los_Control

[James_Douglas]

Turn out that the stock arm fits on this valve stem. Even the flat spot. I made up the plate and then took off the cable holder from the factory unit and welded it onto the plate. Stock cable. and it all works fine. 

 

James

[Loren]

One of the unforeseen things about the heater valve replacement I did is how easy it is to disconnect the valve.

In fact the connection with hydraulic hose fittings can be applied to any valve you might choose.

When you need to remove the head (or the entire engine) one wrench will disconnect the valve and you don't need to disturb the hose or the cable!

Just pull it out of the way and secure it with a wire or a bungee cord.

I didn't realize this when I put it together, but I will tell you this is how I am going to do it from now on.

Further, they make caps which seal those 37 degree fittings without any gasket or seal. So if you put one on both heater inlet/outlets you can take the heater out of the system without any drama. (except remembering where the caps are. lol)

[James_Douglas]

Loren, I like the union idea. The next time I have my head off, I will add that to my set up. Do you have photos or part numbers for those so I can try to match it up via McMaster or Amazon ?  James

[Loren]

I believe it is a #6 with 3/8 pipe thread.

I got these from NAPA on a Sunday, so I wasn’t going to ask a lot of questions.

There’s hydraulic supply company I do a bit of business with that I am going to buy more of these from.

They are not really unions, I just used them that way.

They are meant to attach hydraulic hoses to cylinders and valves.

[Sniper]

9 hours ago, Loren said:

I got these from NAPA on a Sunday

You must live in the big city, lol.  NAPA is not open on Sunday around here and only half a day on Saturday.

[Loren]

I now dwell in coastal Oregon in the small town of Gold Beach (population 2,200)

It's off the beaten path between Brookings (site of the only bombing by aircraft of the 48 states in WW ll) and Port Orford which is south of Coos Bay.

Because the town is on the coast route, NAPA gets plenty of tourists who have broken down on weekends.

Being close to the ocean is hard on the metal, so I am going to be spending the big bucks on paint this year.