1947 Dodge wf 32

[Jeffs]

3 hours ago, Merle Coggins said:

I suspect he had a problem with the vacuum shifting because he lacked the valving and plumbing to make it work after he swapped the axle into the truck. 

Likely, he also unhooked the break booster from the brakes also. I think what I focus on now is finding the right valving and plumbing to make it work and look as original as possible for both the brakes and the axle.  Looks like I need to find the correct firewall valve and the axle vacuum actuator?   Then I need to figure out how to get the booster hooked back into the breaking system and figure out why it wasn't working if there was an actual issue. 

 

Is there something that needs to be taken into account at the speedo also when changing the rear end gear ratio?

Edited September 5, 2021 by Jeffs

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

Just getting back to the brakes, book reference.

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

As you will find, there are several variations to the ‘47 1.5 ton trucks. Serial number changes, LA, Detroit differences, end of a line for this model and parts used to finish the production. My late serial number LA WF truck for example, has WH steering components. As you have already found in 70 years time, many changes could have been made to your truck. My advice, get the parts book and study it well, may prevent purchasing unneeded equipment. The Master service manual goes in great detail for the brakes over several pages which I did not copy. Hope this can help you a little. Kevin

Edited September 5, 2021 by 47 dodge 1.5 ton

[Merle Coggins]

I believe there’s a small gear box behind the speedo that shifts when the rear axle shifts to account for the gear ratio changes. 

[JBNeal]

additional information - speedometer adapter

[Jeffs]

Ok, I think I have a huge issue and looking for some advice.....

 

As mentioned above my truck has a C38-1 motor that from research looks to be a 251.

 

I have been trying to break it loose soaking the cylinders and such because it's frozen.  

 

Today while turning on the crank bolt with a socket and a breaker bar the nut broke off with what looks to be a hollow sleeve or fitting inside the frontnpully crank nut.  Did I just break the front of the crank off or????

[Jeffs]

Looks like the crank is threaded on the inside, when the PO installed the pulley onto the crank the pulley was put on but instead of a solid crank bolt they used a hollow threaded fitting and a crank nut.

[Merle Coggins]

Looks like you just broke the crank bolt. It probably couldn’t handle the torque you were applying to try to get the engine to rotate. You may need to get underneath and work the flywheel ring gear with a pry bar. You’ll have more force to try to rotate the crank. 

[Dodgeb4ya]

The flywheel ring gear should be used to try to turn over an engine that is partially frozen up.

Using a very large heavy duty screw driver or equivalent that fits into the ring gear teeth. Use the side of the bell housing as the fulcrum point.

The crankshaft nut provides no multiplication of turning force like the large diameter flywheel does.

The broken off threaded sleeve part in the crank snout should come out fairly easy when lubed.

Try using a prick punch on the broken off face of the crank nut.

Angle the punch to the direction of unscrewing it.

A few hammer taps will let you see if it will be easy to rotate it out.

 

 

 

[Jeffs]

Thanks for the replies, I got it out with a punch and just worked it out slowly.

 

Any idea what in the world this is? It looks almost like a windage tray but I pulled it from inside the coolant passages right behind the water pump?

[David A.]

That is a water distribution tube. It’s purpose is to direct coolant to the valve seats. Yours is in very good condition. Most of the time they have been installed so long that they are a rusty mess that usually takes a good deal of time and effort to remove, and even then they usually come out in numerous pieces. 

[TodFitch]

With respect to the hollow bolt that was holding the crankshaft pulley on: Did they still set the 1947 trucks to be able to be hand cranked? The bolt for that application is at least partially hollow to allow the tip of the hand crank to go in.

[Young Ed]

2 hours ago, TodFitch said:

With respect to the hollow bolt that was holding the crankshaft pulley on: Did they still set the 1947 trucks to be able to be hand cranked? The bolt for that application is at least partially hollow to allow the tip of the hand crank to go in.

Yes the 41-47s still have a hand crank spot and a hole in the grill trim for access. 

[ggdad1951]

13 hours ago, Young Ed said:

Yes the 41-47s still have a hand crank spot and a hole in the grill trim for access. 

heck, FEF does and he's 51!

[Jeffs]

Hi all,

 

I'm sure there might be a trick to this so thought I would reach out for these old flathead.

 

Trying to remove the intake and exhaust manifold from my 251.  I have removed all of the bolts including the two through the exhaust manifold under the carb and the one down under the manifold in the middle and the manifold still doesn't want to let go. It looks like the combo exhaust ports in the middle of the manifold just doesn't want to let go from the block. 

 

Of course the last thing I want to do it break an ear off or crack the manifold, any tricks?  I did try a little heart but not a lot yet.

 

The water temp bulb also broke off when I removed the head, bulb wa

 

is stuck in the head, does anyone know of a place that can repair those?

Edited October 20, 2021 by Jeffs

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

Mine were hung up on the (2) bolts going through exhaust manifold. I pulled the exhaust off of (2) other engines without issue. I believe coolant leaks in there and causes rust over time. I spent a week trying to be delicate using heat & kroil. This was the end result towards the end of the week. (I already had another manifold in case this happened) note; I did not ring and studs off in the block.

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

If there is no clearance around those (2) studs, I would not remove manifold until another is located. If you look at the picture, I cut, and drilled holes towards those studs and soaked oil after hot until they broke loose, saving the studs. Once the manifold was off I was able to remove the studs without ringing them off in the block.

[Jeffs]

Ouch, that is not what I am hoping happens but honestly that's exactly where I think this is stuck is on those too long volts....

 

 If we were talking a Chevy V8 I'm sure I'd have extra parts...

 

 Maybe I'll try hooking a  cinch strap from the manifold's to the front rim and then see if I can find a small nail or something to kind of work around inside those bolt holes and see if I can loosen up any of that rust with that and penatrating oil....

Edited October 20, 2021 by Jeffs

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

If your wheel is still on, remove that and the inner fender for better access. You will need that to access the valves as well. The manifold on my truck did not have any clearance around the studs, however the 48 and 56 motor I worked on had an oversized hole(much easier!)

Edited October 20, 2021 by 47 dodge 1.5 ton

[Jeffs]

I have the entire front end off.right now trying to break this thing lose..