Help with Welch plug removal while engine is in car.

[White Spyder]

The Welch plug in the photo developed a pin hoe leak. To remove it I had to take off the oil filter lines and the filter can.  I need suggestions on how to get the plug out. Not much room to swing a hammer against a screwdriver to bend it. Thought about drilling a hole and then prying it out but am concerned about the metal shavings getting into the water passage. 
 

 

[soth122003]

Impact hammer from harbour freight. It will help with putting the new one in as well. Just turn the setting knob to thump thump thump instead of brrrrrpp.

 

Joe Lee

[Los_Control]

Simple self tapping screw and a pry bar removed all of mine ...

[JBNeal]

I've done the sheet metal screw + crowbar on over a dozen welch plugs in vehicles...I take the extra precaution of using a piece of scrap 1/4" steel to spread the prying load over a larger area on the water jacket.

[DJ194950]

Heavy Grease applied to the drill and cleaned often will catch the drill chips. Then your choice to remove.

 

DJ

[desoto1939]

Would not be to concerned with the metal shaving. Dril a small hole just to tap the welsh plug screw in the screw and pull it our and water int he water jacket will come out and so will any metal parts.

 

Suggest to use brass welsh plugs an the flat welsh plugs not the lipped style which are not correct.

 

Snap on tool made a tool that had different sized disks to help drive the plug into the holes.

 

Rich Hartung

[chrysler1941]

Leave it and plug pin hole. 

[sidevalvepete]

If one is corroded, it's likely the rest are on the way out too.....maybe time to do the lot.

[White Spyder]

Bought a set from The Old Motor. 

[rallyace]

Ditto on the air hammer method of setting the new plug. I took an old chisel tip, rounded it off on the grinder and two quick zaps with the air hammer it was set. It is well worth the time to carefully clean the hole in the block and I always apply a coat of shellac based gasket sealer to the block seating surfaces before setting welsh plugs.

[James_Douglas]

I use a 90 degree drill and drill a hole in the disc. I then use the puller you can get for $10 at any auto parts store.

 

The real bitch is pounding a new one flat in the engine bay. No place to swing the hammer!

 

I am looking into milling out the holes on my new engine for the '47 so that I can use a cup style rather then a disc style plug for that engine.

 

James

[capt den]

i replaced my welch plugs with dorman core plugs that install with wrenches. part # 568 010, about $4 at any auto parts store. i used the drill a hole in the old ones and insert a screw and pry out. the dorman plugs have been in my 25 inch 265 for about 5 years with no leaks. it is called a quick seal plug on the dorman web site. not original looking, but easy to install and can be left on permanently. you can carry one as a spare. good idea to replace them all and flush the block as much as you can. there is info on this site to help with that.     capt den 

[Los_Control]

Kind of interesting, I have never seen one like this .... not original but has a certain kool look to it.

 

[White Spyder]

Got them out with the self tapping screws and a pry bar. I bought an impact hammer to re-install them. I use red RTV sealer on the edges of the plugs. The plugs flattened somewhat but not as flat as the originals. Hope the sealed and hold. 

[White Spyder]

By the way,  I have another thread related to this on copper crush washers for the oil canister. If you are doing this job, take a look at it too.  

[White Spyder]

Got this project done!  It was a real bitch to get the hard oil lines lined up to keep them from cross threading. But it is all sealed up and running again.