Need Help with Throw Out Bearing

[Noah H]

Hello,

 

My throw out bearing has a nasty squeal when I press down on my clutch pedal. It is time for a new one. My car is 1950 Dodge Meadowbrook with a 3 speed fluid drive. (Torque converter only, no automatic shifting). What are good brands of bearings and what size of bearing do I need. I am having trouble finding one. 
 

thank you for your time 

[Conn47D24]

My Parts book shows:

 

Google - Ebay by part #.  Try Andy Bernbaum

 

[MarkAubuchon]

Not too hard.  Just messy.  Id first pressure wash everything off, pull the floor boards, drive shaft, take pictures of the cables and rods. When i did mine i just pulled the transmission, pay attention to the clips on the throw out bearing, put in a new pilot bushing while your at it. 

[Hamilton]

Unless the torque converter requires it, there's no benefit in removing your floorboard.  Indeed, with a regular three-speed gearbox it would certainly be a waste of time and effort.  Plus, on a 1950 I believe only the driver's side is removable.

 

_

Edited September 24, 2020 by Hamilton
typo

[Noah H]

Thanks,

switching gears in the question.

 

did they make a 3 standard fluid drive without the solenoids/ tip toe shift? Just the torque converter? I have to shift like a regular 3 speed but can stop while in gear without stalling. 
 

QUESTION 2

my clutch pedal has about 2 1/2-3 inches of  free play. In order to bring free play shorter would I adjust rod Shorter or longer? I crawled up underneath and looked at the adjustment and there does not seem to be much thread left to adjust longer.

 

 

[Dodgeb4ya]

No "torque converter" in your Dodge ...just a simple fluid coupling with NO torque multiplication.

If you had a converter you could do huge burnouts..?

.

[Noah H]

17 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

No "torque converter" in your Dodge ...just a simple fluid coupling with NO torque multiplication.

If you had a converter you could do huge burnouts..?

.

That was the word, thanks for the correction been a busy week of schooling thus far! 

[Noah H]

My clutch pedal has about 2 1/2-3 inches of  free play. All linkages are tight and not bent.  In order to bring free play shorter would I adjust rod Shorter or longer? I crawled up underneath and looked at the adjustment and there does not seem to be much thread left to adjust longer.

 

[desoto1939]

Here is infor taken from my Federal Throwout bearing catalog for your car.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

Edited September 24, 2020 by desoto1939

[9 foot box]

   I think that someone adjusted pedal free play with the pedal stop bolt. Tighten that bolt to snug pedal and loosen the linkage in, to get 1” free play. 

[Noah H]

42 minutes ago, 9 foot box said:

   I think that someone adjusted pedal free play with the pedal stop bolt. Tighten that bolt to snug pedal and loosen the linkage in, to get 1” free play. 

Is this the linkage that connects to the fork? The squealing is on and off but there is a horrible judder while taking off from a start 

[9 foot box]

   There is a shop manual on eBay for $44.09. I like it because the illustrations are clear. Some reprints are not that clear. You really need a manual to adjust the clutch overcenter spring, clutch pedal location and free play. 49-51 Plymouth’s had their own adjustments, depending on clutch diameter. You shouldn’t have that much free play, maybe you are missing a part or spring because something is wrong. I would loosen the linkage going to the fork so it is slightly loose and your throw out bearing isn’t riding on the pressure plate fingers. And post a picture of your linkage.

[Hamilton]

On 9/24/2020 at 9:24 PM, Noah H said:

Is this the linkage that connects to the fork? The squealing is on and off but there is a horrible judder while taking off from a start 

The shudder you're experiencing is likely the result of a worn/warped pressure plate or flywheel, or a worn/glazed clutch disc (my money would be on the PP and/or disc, as opposed to the flywheel).  As long an you're in there replacing the throw-out bearing anyway you should consider a clutch kit.  Public Service Notice:  if the one you pull out is an older unit manufactured in the U.S. either have it rebuilt or find another one like it.  I just went round-and-round with a new set I purchased.  Ultimately gave up and found rebuilt OEM parts - finally found resolution today.  Thread on that subject here ...

 

Edited September 26, 2020 by Hamilton
typo

[kencombs]

Is the Judder on takeoff when not using the clutch, taking advantage of the fluid coupling, or when engaging the clutch?  If the former, my money would be on defective rear motor mounts. 

[Dartgame]

There are a number of designs used for throwout bearings. Of those the most durable is called an angular contact bearing. Be sure to get one of that type. 

[Noah H]

13 hours ago, kencombs said:

Is the Judder on takeoff when not using the clutch, taking advantage of the fluid coupling, or when engaging the clutch?  If the former, my money would be on defective rear motor mounts. 

 The 

 

23 hours ago, Hamilton said:

The shudder you're experiencing is likely the result of a worn/warped pressure plate or flywheel, or a worn/glazed clutch disc (my money would be on the PP and/or disc, as opposed to the flywheel).  As long an you're in there replacing the throw-out bearing anyway you should consider a clutch kit.  Public Service Notice:  if the one you pull out is an older unit manufactured in the U.S. either have it rebuilt or find another one like it.  I just went round-and-round with a new set I purchased.  Ultimately gave up and found rebuilt OEM parts - finally found resolution today.  Thread on that subject here ...

 

the clutch disk and pressure plate and throw out bearing are new (about 3,000 miles) flywheel look immaculately clean so I left it. The judder was still present before and after the replacement. The sound I am hearing when pressing in the clutch is defiantly the bearing. A long handled screwdriver helped pinpoint that sound 

[Royal Duke]

If you need to have the clutch rebuilt, I suggest you contact Joe at H R Clutches (215) 639 7150 and tell him what you have.  They might be able to build a clutch especially for you.  Wayne  

[Sniper]

20 hours ago, Noah H said:

 The 

 

the clutch disk and pressure plate and throw out bearing are new (about 3,000 miles) flywheel look immaculately clean so I left it. The judder was still present before and after the replacement. The sound I am hearing when pressing in the clutch is defiantly the bearing. A long handled screwdriver helped pinpoint that sound 

 

 

How it looks isn't nearly as relevant as how the run out measured.  After all, the flywheel, if I am reading this right, it the only thing not addressed. 

[kencombs]

19 minutes ago, Sniper said:

 

 

How it looks isn't nearly as relevant as how the run out measured.  After all, the flywheel, if I am reading this right, it the only thing not addressed. 

Well, we still don't know if the judder happens  when starting off with the clutch engaged and using the fluid coupling or only when engaging the clutch from a stop.  The former would point to motor mounts, the latter to flywheel or defective clutch/pressure plate.  I know they are new but that doesn't mean they are perfect.

[Sniper]

True, lately new means nothing.

[Noah H]

4 hours ago, kencombs said:

Well, we still don't know if the judder happens  when starting off with the clutch engaged and using the fluid coupling or only when engaging the clutch from a stop.  The former would point to motor mounts, the latter to flywheel or defective clutch/pressure plate.  I know they are new but that doesn't mean they are perfect.

 

4 hours ago, Sniper said:

 

 

How it looks isn't nearly as relevant as how the run out measured.  After all, the flywheel, if I am reading this right, it the only thing not 

the judder starts out when I utilize the clutch from a stop. Not using the fluid drive. The flywheel was resurfaced when the motor was rebuilt 5,000 miles ago as well as the clutch components being replaced at that time. 

[DJ194950]

With the clutch inspection cover off and car on jack stands, start motor and watch/measure flywheel run-out with someone in car engaging clutch and check for any changes. Maybe flywheel is loose at the bolts and moving in and out. Mine did after several miles of driving..

 On install it somehow got cocked and when it appeared tight it was not really. Loosened up after some miles and got  to moving as clutch was used and clutch engaged/released by use. Re-tightened the bolts/nuts. Then worked fine Again!

 

Something easy and cheap to check?  A thought.

 

DJ

[Sniper]

I remember one time I had my rotors resurfaced upon the test drive I had a horrible shake when applying the brakes.  When the rotors got resurfaced they did it wrong and the run out was horrible.  I verified that with my dial indicator, took it back and had the shop redo them.  Doesn't hurt to check.