Hot (Running) L6 Valve Set Tools

[keithb7]

Today I got around the setting the valves on my '38. I stuck the wrenches in the hot running engine and set the valve clearance. It is do-able.  However some tappets are difficult to access with the wrenches. For those who have done this several times, what custom wrenches are you using? I'd be interested to get myself set up. 

 

My '38 has a '54 engine. So the settings for my 54 engine are .008 intake and .010 exhaust. I set them until an 8 would go in the intake, but a 10 would not. A 10 in the exhaust but a 12 would not. Seems good. I can hear a small amount of valve ticking.I am ok with that. Better to hear a little then none at all they say.

Any tips on tools is appreciated. 

 

Pic is after 500 miles with modern detergent oil. It was a fair bit cleaner than when I first when into the engine to clean out sludge back in March.  It had been running on non-detergent SAE30 before.

Dumping the oil and filter now to go with 10W40. 

 

Thanks, Keith

 

 

[Sniper]

Looks good, are you using tappet wrenches?

 

Here's a link with some decent info

 

https://p15-d24.com/topic/39909-valve-adjustment-nervous/

[Dodgeb4ya]

I have always used regular 7/16" and 1/2" wrenches...no problem.

[kencombs]

10 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

I have always used regular 7/16" and 1/2" wrenches...no problem.

I have a pair of long, thin Snap-On 7/16 x 1/2 open ends.  They are usefull for that.

[TodFitch]

2 hours ago, kencombs said:

I have a pair of long, thin Snap-On 7/16 x 1/2 open ends.  They are usefull for that.

 

Sounds like "tappet wrenches" to me. https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/tappet wrench

 

They are pretty useful for adjusting tappets on L head engines.

[kencombs]

1 minute ago, TodFitch said:

 

Sounds like "tappet wrenches" to me. https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/tappet wrench

 

They are pretty useful for adjusting tappets on L head engines.

 

They are  listed as 'low torque wrench'.  The ebay sellers always list as 'tappet wrench'.  They're handy for a lot of things, but I'd never pay the catalog price for them.  over 52 bucks for one wrench?  Not me.

[JBNeal]

I've checked the valves cold, .002" over the specs, as outlined in the Tech Tips, then once the engine is warmed up, checking while engine running usually puts the tappet right on...adjustment with Craftsman wrenches works OK but #5 and #6 are a challenge...

 

It might not hurt to try to remove some of that buildup in the valve area to keep the oil from getting fouled up too quickly...might be overkill, but running some shop towel through there couldn't hurt...

[MarcDeSoto]

These are the long thin type tappet wrenches you need.  You need the 1/2" and 7/16" sizes on two different wrenches.  

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-1-2-x-9-16-AND-3-8-x-7-16-Open-End-Thin-Tappet-Wrenchs-No-2-USA/124069413533?hash=item1ce31d029d:g:6wwAAOSws5FeLIFN

[MarcDeSoto]

Here's a good 1949 MoPar filmstrip on how to adjust the tappets:  http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=558

[T120]

On 7/17/2020 at 5:16 PM, keithb7 said:

 

 

....Pic is after 500 miles with modern detergent oil. It was a fair bit cleaner than when I first when into the engine to clean out sludge back in March.  It had been running on non-detergent SAE30 before....

 

I haven't used SAE30 oil in years. Lately I've been using mobil delvac 15w40 in the old cars.Today I was in town shopping , made a stop at Peavey Mart, (local hardware and farm supply,etc) and I saw Harvest King SAE30 oil on the shelf and I thought - well, the owners manuals for my old mopars does call for SAE30, so I bought a couple of gallons.I've had the oil pans off , cleaned out sludge, checked things over and the engines are reasonably clean - don't normally have a lot of miles between oil changes. So the next old vehicle to get an oil change,I'll be using Harvest King SAE30.? 

 

Edited August 26, 2020 by T120