1952 plymouth cranbrook New Battery - Car won't start and no power to headlights

[jt52MrB]

I'm sure this is prob a silly question. Tried to start my 1952 Cranbrook after the winter and nothing.. I replaced the battery, starter solenoid and voltage regulator. Still nothing, not even a clicking sound and no power to the headlights or door lights. 

 

With the old battery on if I attached it to a 6v battery charger the headlights would go on. 

 

Anyone have any ideas? 

[kencombs]

All I can suggest is, check the battery to make sure it's charged and both cables, both ends for solid connections.  Ground, and solenoid especially.

 A cheap multimeter would be great at this point to check continuity, battery to cable, cable to solenoid etc as well as voltage measurements at various points.  I'll bet you will kick yourself when you find it as it has to be something simple being overlooked.

 

BTDT, lots of tee shirts!

Edited February 29, 2020 by kencombs

[keithb7]

Have you been able to trace the battery cables, both ends and removed and cleaned up everything? To ensure very good contact. How old are you battery cables? Are they stiff and internally corroded? What gauge wire are they? Do you have a multi-meter to check for continuity and voltage readings at various connection points? Start with reading the voltage across your battery posts. What is it? The take a reading at the key switch with reference to a good ground. Turn the key on, check those contacts. Further check voltage readings at relays, solenoids, head light switches, whatever is not working where it should. That's a great start to troubleshooting your described problem.

[Sam Buchanan]

If you installed a new aftermarket regulator, and your old one was working last year, I suggest you put the old regulator back in the car. It is very likely the new one is DOA out of the box. A bad regulator wouldn't result in the symptoms you are seeing.....you have a faulty connection somewhere......or a dead battery.

[jt52MrB]

Thanks guys. I tested the continuity of the cables with the multimeter and got tone on the ground, battery cables, battery to solenoid, solenoid to starter, voltage regulator and generator. I put the new battery on the trickle charger and am headed out to dinner. Strange they would all register tone. When I had the old battery on it clicked a few times then nothing.. after that it has be unresponsive. Being a newbie this is a bit frustrating. Thank you both for the advice.  

[jt52MrB]

1 minute ago, Sam Buchanan said:

If you installed a new aftermarket regulator, and your old one was working last year, I suggest you put the old regulator back in the car. It is very likely the new one is DOA out of the box. A bad regulator wouldn't result in the symptoms you are seeing.....you have a faulty connection somewhere......or a dead battery.

Sam, I will give that a shot too and see what happens. Thanks for the tip. 

 

[Sniper]

Did you remember it's positive ground?

 

 

[jt52MrB]

1 minute ago, Sniper said:

Did you remember it's positive ground?

 

 

Yes, I wired it all the same way, took pics and did it slowly so I didn't miss anything. It was dead before I began replacing parts. Same issue as I have replaced the solenoid, then the regulator, then the battery. I have been taking it slow so I don't mess anything up. 

[Sniper]

There should be a feed wire on the battery side of the solenoid. It should be green, 10 gauge, that feeds the horn relay.  Where it attaches to the horn relay there should be a red wire, 10 gauge.  That feeds the ammeter.  the other side of the ammeter goes to the ignition switch and gets divvied up to various places.

 

If your horn doesn't honk then it's probably an issue with the green wire mentioned above.

[plymjim]

May be over simplifying things but clean battery posts

& cable ends. Also, cables may very well be corroded

inside the insulation. I have had them look like new but

completely shot within. 

[desoto1939]

OK with the old battery on a 6v battery charger you stated that the headlight worked so at least you have some power with the old battery. But with the new battery connected to a 6v battery charger you are getting nothing.

 

Since it is a new battery can you take the caps off the top of the battery?  If you can there shoud be battery acid in each cell.  Check this first then get a  battery electrolyte tester so that you can insert it in to each cell and then determine the amount of electrical charge that you have in each cell  or even take it back to the place that you purchased the battry from and have then check it to make it is not defective.

 

With a new battery it should start right up because it should be 50% charged.

 

Rich HArtung

[jt52MrB]

45 minutes ago, plymjim said:

May be over simplifying things but clean battery posts

& cable ends. Also, cables may very well be corroded

inside the insulation. I have had them look like new but

completely shot within. 

If the cables are bad would the multimeter come back with good continuity? I thought the good tone of the meter meant the cables were fine? I will clean everything in the morning and see if it helps. Thanks for the tip. 

[jt52MrB]

8 minutes ago, desoto1939 said:

OK with the old battery on a 6v battery charger you stated that the headlight worked so at least you have some power with the old battery. But with the new battery connected to a 6v battery charger you are getting nothing.

 

Since it is a new battery can you take the caps off the top of the battery?  If you can there shoud be battery acid in each cell.  Check this first then get a  battery electrolyte tester so that you can insert it in to each cell and then determine the amount of electrical charge that you have in each cell  or even take it back to the place that you purchased the battry from and have then check it to make it is not defective.

 

With a new battery it should start right up because it should be 50% charged.

 

Rich HArtung

I purchased an Optima Redtop 6v. There are no caps to check the acid. I have it on the Battery Tender overnight so should be top shape by the morning. Will post how it goes in the morning. Thanks for the response. 

[jt52MrB]

2 hours ago, Sniper said:

There should be a feed wire on the battery side of the solenoid. It should be green, 10 gauge, that feeds the horn relay.  Where it attaches to the horn relay there should be a red wire, 10 gauge.  That feeds the ammeter.  the other side of the ammeter goes to the ignition switch and gets divvied up to various places.

 

If your horn doesn't honk then it's probably an issue with the green wire mentioned above.

Just tested the green wire. Continuity came back with a strong tone. Any other thoughts? 

[Dodgeb4ya]

Check battery voltage...needs to be 6.5 volts or higher to be fully charged.

Checking battery cables by meter tone is not a good way to check for continuity.

Doing voltage drop tests on a car starting system is the way to find high resistance in connections or a open wire etc.

So if your battery is fully charged after checking with your meter check all battery cable connections and re-install your good original VR.

Just because you bought a new battery  does not mean it's fully charged or even any good.

Being a 6 volt and a slow moving product it might akready be a year old!

Check the round date code sticker.

[Sniper]

Going to have to check the wire from the horn relay to the Ammeter then.  If that works then from the ammeter to the ignition switch.  Ammeter could be bad though.

 

[jt52MrB]

19 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

Check battery voltage...needs to be 6.5 volts or higher to be fully charged.

Checking battery cables by meter tone is not a good way to check for continuity.

Doing voltage drop tests on a car starting system is the way to find high resistance in connections or a open wire etc.

So if your battery is fully charged after checking with your meter check all battery cable connections and re-install your good original VR.

Just because you bought a new battery  does not mean it's fully charged or even any good.

Being a 6 volt and a slow moving product it might akready be a year old!

Check the round date code sticker.

Thanks for the tips. Looks like the battery was low. I have it on the charger overnight and will see if that makes a difference. I haven't done a voltage drop test before but will YouTube it and give it a shot tomorrow. Thank you! 

[jt52MrB]

18 minutes ago, Sniper said:

Going to have to check the wire from the horn relay to the Ammeter then.  If that works then from the ammeter to the ignition switch.  Ammeter could be bad though.

 

I'll check it out and reply back. Thanks! 

[greg g]

Check the terminal from the negative bat terminal to the starter solenoid battery side terminal.  Take off the nut and clean all the connectors there and inspect all the wires then reinstall and retighten the nut.  This is the feed for all electrical circuits.  Are you getting any clicking from the solenoid when turning the key to start? 

[jt52MrB]

UPDATE: I cleaned all of the cables and wires between the battery and ground as well as battery to solenoid, solenoid  to starter. Also, cleaned the wires between the voltage reg and other components in the area. When I hooked everything back up and used the multimeter I got the same V reading across all of the components. But put the key in the ignition and not even a click. Event tried the multi on the back of the ignition switch and got a reading off that. 

 

I noticed if I turn the key to the left the fuel gauge registers fuel level but lights do not come on and nothing else works. If I turn to the right, nothing. If I put the car on the 6v charger the lights will come on, the gauges and radio work and when I try to start I get the clicking sound. I would expect the car to attempt to start if the other components work on the charger. Thoughts from anyone? This may sound trivial but I am not that experienced. Any advice would be welcome. 

[Sniper]

What is the voltage reading across your battery terminals?  Sounds like a dead battery.

[jt52MrB]

6 minutes ago, Sniper said:

What is the voltage reading across your battery terminals?  Sounds like a dead battery.

Charged the battery overnight on the Battery Tender and now it's at 5.46v. Should I take it back for another one?  When I attach the older sears charger and turn it on the reading is 8.46v.

 

 

 

 

[greg g]

Bum battery exchange it.  Turning the key to the right is the accessory position.  Turn the key to run, do you have footage to the neg terminal on the coil?

[jt52MrB]

20 minutes ago, greg g said:

Bum battery exchange it.  Turning the key to the right is the accessory position.  Turn the key to run, do you have footage to the neg terminal on the coil?

When I turn the key it goes from 5.75v to 0.50v. No sound or anything else happening. Thoughts? 

[Dodgeb4ya]

That battery is still very very low charged....could be a damaged/ faulty or open cell.

The battery should have come all the way back to 6.5 volts even with a 10 amp charger...

A 2 amp charger could take a couple days or more...

Your new battery seems to be a junk battery sold out the door.

..take it back before doing anything else and make the seller give you another new one and prove to you it is fully charged 6.5 volts or more before you leave with it.

Don't let them charge the one that's dead...you will just never trust it.