trying a different fuel pump

[Andydodge]

Harmony.........but maybe it wishes it was a Nascar........lol........andyd

[harmony]

2 minutes ago, Andydodge said:

Harmony.........but maybe it wishes it was a Nascar........lol........andyd

haha!  Me and my old girl are around the same age and even though I wish I was still an athlete.  It just ain't goin to happen   hahaha!

[Andydodge]

Unfortunately I hadn't taken the pump off the Plymouth Coupe when I had it as it worked fine, however I was building a 230 to install in the car and had 2 spare pumps, both with slightly different shaped arms but the same pump profile that I used to get the exhaust setup done........I sold the car and engine so I can't give any more info unfortuneately.........and I didn't take any pics showing the fuel pump..........andyd   

[keithb7]

The heat shield's purpose is to prevent vapor lock that can happen within the fuel pump.  On a flathead 6 I am doubtful as to whether or not they were trying to keep the fuel colder for optimum fuel atomization.

[Tom Skinner]

If it gets hot where you live, put on a Heat Shield. And some wood Clothes pins on the Gas Line. Problem Solved.

Chrysler Products were designed and Engineered in Michigan. Cold is good they like it, Hot not so much.

Flat Heads are kind of Like Air Cooled VW Engines designed to live in Germany not the deep South.

My Chrysler runs best 70 Degrees and below. Even Better at 20- 60 Degrees.

Just the way it is. No big deal. Older Chrysler's love the New England - Michigan Latitudes not way down South.

I only base my observations on owning them in the NE and also down South over the last 45 Years.

 

[kencombs]

27 minutes ago, harmony said:

Does anyone have any view points on the importance of the heat shield that attaches to the top of the fuel pump.  My car didn't have one when I got it.  I have since made one to match the OE shield.  However you can't see the pump with that installed.   If I had that shield in place I might not have spotted the fuel leak in the first place as soon as I did.  Also I would need a mirror and a flashlight to get a look at the glass bowl if I had one with that feature.  I have read that the heat shield keeps the gas cooler and therefore has a better combustion.  But my car ran ok without the shield.

I can see if it's regarding a dragster or a formula 1 car.  But my old girl is a slug.

That heat shield is to help prevent vapor lock, much more of an issue on a daily driver that competitions machines.   Stopping a hot engine can result in radiant heat from the nearby manifold vaporizing the fuel in the pump and/or metal line.   That can cause a difficult or no restart until it cools.  Not mandatory, until it's needed.

[harmony]

4 minutes ago, Tom Skinner said:

If it gets hot where you live, put on a Heat Shield. And some wood Clothes pins on the Gas Line. Problem Solved.

Chrysler Products were designed and Engineered in Michigan. Cold is good they like it, Hot not so much.

Flat Heads are kind of Like Air Cooled VW Engines designed to live in Germany not the deep South.

My Chrysler runs best 70 Degrees and below. Even Better at 20- 60 Degrees.

Just the way it is. No big deal. Older Chrysler's love the New England - Michigan Latitudes not way down South.

I only base my observations on owning them in the NE and also down South over the last 45 Years.

 

I'm in the Pacific NW. Canada side, so high temps in summer around 70 ish  and just above freezing in the winter months. 

On the throttle arm assembly there is that arm with the 3 holes.  Service manual suggests adjusting it from hole to hole depending on the temperature of the seasons.  Does anyone pay attention to that?  I've tried moving it in various day temperatures and I've never noticed a difference.  It's a Carter B&B EV1

[Sam Buchanan]

2 minutes ago, harmony said:

I'm in the Pacific NW. Canada side, so high temps in summer around 70 ish  and just above freezing in the winter months. 

On the throttle arm assembly there is that arm with the 3 holes.  Service manual suggests adjusting it from hole to hole depending on the temperature of the seasons.  Does anyone pay attention to that?  I've tried moving it in various day temperatures and I've never noticed a difference.  It's a Carter B&B EV1

 

In the process of getting my P15 back on the road after a five-year hibernation I put the pushrod in the "winter (rich)" hole in the pump arm. The car runs so well even in 90-100* temps that I just leave it there. It could be that the accelerator pump in my carb is a little weak and the aggressive setting makes up for it.

[harmony]

2 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said:

 

In the process of getting my P15 back on the road after a five-year hibernation I put the pushrod in the "winter (rich)" hole in the pump arm. The car runs so well even in 90-100* temps that I just leave it there. It could be that the accelerator pump in my carb is a little weak and the aggressive setting makes up for it.

Good to know.  100* temps are not even conceivable in my world.  wow!

[desoto1939]

5 hours ago, kencombs said:

Not Rich, but I'll comment anyway.  Airtex 73201 is a fitment number, not a specific configuration,  and there have been a number of physically different pumps that had that number.  Google the image and you'll see what I mean.

 

The glass sediment bowl may be good for you, IF you have some junk in the tank.  Otherwise, it's just another potential leak point.  Personally, I'd opt for a traditional filter.

when the airtex 588 taken out of production then they did a remake and changed the number to73201.  I had spoken to an Airtex Technical rep and he confirmed that the 73201 is the same pump as the 588 FP. They made some modifications but it is the same mechanical pump.

 

When the fp that was in my 39 Desoto failed I removed the entire unit and there was a metal tag screwed to the main body and on the tag was AC588.  I have over the years collected over 30 catalogs on replacement components and one of the catalogs is a  1954 NAPA catalog and under the Chrysler/Desoto/Dodge/Ply from 1938 to 1953 the fuel pump that they list as the replacement pump is the AC588.  I am not an expert mechanic but backup my information by doing my research in my collection of 30 plus cross reference catalogs prior to supplying or passing on information to help another antique car owner.  

 

Rich Hartung

Taken from Airtex fuel pump catalog for Chrysler cars.docx

Edited December 16, 2019 by desoto1939

[Young Ed]

14 hours ago, desoto1939 said:

when the airtex 588 taken out of production then they did a remake and changed the number to73201.  I had spoken to an Airtex Technical rep and he confirmed that the 73201 is the same pump as the 588 FP. They made some modifications but it is the same mechanical pump.

 

When the fp that was in my 39 Desoto failed I removed the entire unit and there was a metal tag screwed to the main body and on the tag was AC588.  I have over the years collected over 30 catalogs on replacement components and one of the catalogs is a  1954 NAPA catalog and under the Chrysler/Desoto/Dodge/Ply from 1938 to 1953 the fuel pump that they list as the replacement pump is the AC588.  I am not an expert mechanic but backup my information by doing my research in my collection of 30 plus cross reference catalogs prior to supplying or passing on information to help another antique car owner.  

 

Rich Hartung

Taken from Airtex fuel pump catalog for Chrysler cars.docx 237.24 kB · 1 download

They probably changed the # because those 588s were getting a reputation for falling apart. Hopefully the changes they made are to the shaft for the arm to keep it from falling out. 

[Tom Skinner]

Staking the Armature Pin Ends puts an end to it falling out. Those New 73201's work. 

No need to second guess them. At around $70 each buy two and keep one as an extra in the trunk as I have done for 45 years. In the Old Days 588's.

Flat Heads Love Fuel Pumps, as much as GM's Like Alternators, and Ford's Love Transmissions. L.O.L. (They eat them).

Ahhh for the Love of Chryslerdome. Merry Christmas everybody!

Edited December 18, 2019 by Tom Skinner
more info

[Sniper]

On 12/15/2019 at 3:49 PM, harmony said:

I'm in the Pacific NW. Canada side, so high temps in summer around 70 ish  and just above freezing in the winter months. 

On the throttle arm assembly there is that arm with the 3 holes.  Service manual suggests adjusting it from hole to hole depending on the temperature of the seasons.  Does anyone pay attention to that?  I've tried moving it in various day temperatures and I've never noticed a difference.  It's a Carter B&B EV1

 

I recently tuned my BB and one of the things I did was move the pump shot from the rich position to the middle one.   I live in west Texas and 100+ degree days are normal, lately it's been below freezing in the morning.  She starts and runs just fine, though I wonder if I have a thermostat ad it never really gets the heater hot, just warm.

[harmony]

I finally got my fuel pump back, and installed on my car.  As you can see the body is not near as long now.  This time Then and Now installed the updated body version.  Apparently the long body version that mine had was prone to leaking.  So now, no leaks so far.  However after running the car for about 5 minutes and carefully looking for leaks,,,,, I found one......  No not gas, but water.  I just discovered that the top radiator tank has developed a slow leak that wasn't there previously.  Looks like it might be from a previous solder repair many years ago.   I'm seeing signs of other places that look suspicious, so since it's the winter and the car has been resting for about a month now anyways, I might as well pull the radiator and have it completely rebuilt.  It would have been nice if the radiator had started to leak when the fuel pump first started to leak the first time.  The radiator would have been rebuilt and back on the car by now, but then that would have been far too convenient.  Of course to add insult to injury, the radiator shop in town is shut down for New Years and won't be open until next Monday.