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54 C1C6 Build


CO54

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4 hours ago, CO54 said:

 

The shorter one ended up pulling through on the first set of holes around #2/#3 cylinders,  used it as a template and cut the longer one at about 26" overall.  Was able to get a solid hook on the holes back around #4/#5.  We got some small movement with the 2# slide hammer, then called in a favor to brother in-law and borrowed his 13# slide. Saved both tools for future though. 

 

That longer blade puller looks pretty good.   i like the way you tapered it down.  Now with luck you'll never need it again :)

 

 

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1 hour ago, Merle Coggins said:

A saying I picked up from a previous co-worker... "If at first you don't succeed, a bigger hammer is what you need." ?

 

The bigger hammer definitely did the trick on this one!!!!!

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  • 3 months later...

Alright, it's been awhile since and update.  After learning that the vinegar rust removal works amazing on the head the block, and few other misc parts, I'm getting ready to install the freeze plugs before priming the block as a preventive.  I've done TONS of research on the forum for best practice with this,, and found the Permatex #2 is a great option, but also doing JB Weld......  I've got those 2, plus the black adhesive sealant maker to use.....  Looking for some more insight.  JB Weld....(permanent, PITA for any future problems),  Permatex #2 .......(never worked with "non hardening" before.  How reliable?),  Black adhesive sealant maker......(I see as a possible "middle of the road" between the 2 previously mentioned.)  Advise???  Please and thank you.

Once in primer the block will head out to the machine shop for measuring, honing......

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Yes, I'm a "flippies guy" when I can..... Stop laughing at the first pic of my toes.  LOL

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I reckon ya want to go with a sealant that stays somewhat flexible during heat cycling, which isn't exactly JB Weld's forte...also, JB Weld can be a bear to clean out if the welch plug starts to weep at a pinhole from corrosion.  FWIW I installed several sets of Dorman steel plugs in dry bores, only one leaked from the center not on its perimeter, and that was over 10 yrs after installation...the sealant is good insurance on eroded bores, but if your bores are clean and robust, it may not be necessary but won't hurt :cool:

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14 hours ago, The Oil Soup said:

The trick to get old JB weld off is to use a torch. I used it on a muffler once, didn't last too long.

Never knew about that trick.  Thanks. 

 

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Got the freeze plugs installed yesterday, used the adhesive sealant during install.  Also got the block painted with engine primer.  Still gotta get it into the machine shop, but small steps forward is something. 

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What are you getting done at the machine shop? I would think they would tank the block for most things and undo your painting and possibly the frost plugs too. 

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14 hours ago, Young Ed said:

What are you getting done at the machine shop? I would think they would tank the block for most things and undo your painting and possibly the frost plugs too. 

Got the block tanked through a self service shop at work for $20.00 and 2 hours of my time.  Just need the machine shop to do measurement on cylinders, honing, and measurements for bearings. 

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15 hours ago, ggdad1951 said:

You dimpled those freeze plugs pretty hard.  More than normally seen.  Hoping for you not TOO hard!

Hope not too, was 1st time doing 'em…..  Time will tell.

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  • 1 month later...

Machine shop is on hold for budget right now.  Got into doing the Rusty Hope front disc conversion.  Could only get partially done.  Will have a 1/2" chuck drill and drill press tomorrow to finish it up.  Can already tell it's going to be fun trying to thread the required lower holes with the spindles still on the truck.  7/8 of a turn, then reset the tap handle on the tap.  gonna be a slow process there. Anyone have a PN # for a spindle nut from Napa with the center hole that was recommended by Rusty?

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37 minutes ago, CO54 said:

Machine shop is on hold for budget right now.  Got into doing the Rusty Hope front disc conversion.  Could only get partially done.  Will have a 1/2" chuck drill and drill press tomorrow to finish it up.  Can already tell it's going to be fun trying to thread the required lower holes with the spindles still on the truck.  7/8 of a turn, then reset the tap handle on the tap.  gonna be a slow process there. Anyone have a PN # for a spindle nut from Napa with the center hole that was recommended by Rusty?

There are some square sockets available.  Maybe find one that will work with your tap and ratchet.  I have an old tap handle,  actually just the center part with the chuck to engage the taps, with a socket welded to it.  Ratchet is a lifesaver with big taps and tight quarters.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Well, it's been awhile since I posted any progress.  Been slow going, but managed to get the front clip pulled apart. With some help from Brad, the Rusty Hope kit is mostly installed.  No need to install caliper and pads till the MC and brake lines are ready for install.  Got some work done on the frame too, all but under the cab is now painted.  Still waiting on my donor rear axle to become available.y4mV1IFbhYm-nDGEywG9lx4Arm-5oC8U3pliffhDy4mfhoE4z01UuevgcwBpG1Wkq1e1W533AUZ1BE-ay4mhXorHbruBbHyDDAeqVqvu-dAgMlRKr0oWzBdjy4mcuCnMXQ7ErlObI4P20OoXH3I-twfmELIeLAqny4mTkhX8ay1B6aVJPgZ7CyG0YW9cPZvMcvx_ioTp

 

New tie rod ends are on order, then we'll figure out the next step in the process. 

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That sheetmetal may look rusty but it sure looks solid, I'll bet they clean up nicely.  For some reason I thought you had lifted the cab off the truck.  I guess I'm not paying close enough attention!

 

Nice to see progress being made :)

 

Brad

 

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Brad, 

You are correct the cab was removed for awhile, we set it back down on the frame to save some space.   As for the rust, it's 98% surface rust, there's only a few actual cancerous rust spots on the entire truck. 

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  • 5 months later...

I've been a slacker on posting, but not at getting parts.  Have everything to complete the front disc conversion install, got my replacement rear axle. Dana 35, 3.73, disc from a 95 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Got the pasg. floor board repaired with a trunk/floor pan kit from POR-15.  Got all grease zerts replaced on the frame and greased the every living S*** out of them last weekend.  This holiday weekend has been getting the new to me rear axle ready for install. Got some help from a friend with some good tools, and the help from my son to finish it off. If weather holds out tomorrow, son and I will get it in. y4mSQiwTeLv2lcZzxpePWMnW_h2nEun_hhuIbsZy  2nd note, a promotion at work always adds to the budget, and my wife agreed, LOL. 

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