Fed Up

[bambamshere]

1 hour ago, Los_Control said:

I just kinda doubt the difference between 5/64" or 5/32" would stop it from running.

It may cause the float to over flow ... but not stop it from running.

It may cause it to run like crap, but not stop it.

 

You have something else going on.

Now we need to figure out what else you did.

Those little ball bearings that block the ports, those are important.

They may be stuck, they are different sizes and one goes in one hole ... while the larger one goes in the Neighbors hole.

 

Not impossible that the float is stuck and just flooding out, I suspect something else is going on.

 

 

I touched the float and cleaned all the jets and took the grit out that is it. I used actual carburetor cleaner spray and no little ball bearing were hurt in the process. No ball bears were even touched. The only time I ever looked at them was 2 years ago when I rebuilt the carburetor. 

 

What I have done.

I have installed new fuel line.

I have installed new fuel pump

I have cleaned the carburetor out of all the grit that was in it.

I cleaned all the jets in the carburetor.

I adjusted the float in carburetor. 

I had tried to time it during this.

 

The truck was running at idle but it was running at around 1000 rpms at idle. Where is the float supposed to be set at. So it is one less thing I have to worry about. I can set it and forget it.

[bambamshere]

Not sure if this matters or not I have carburetor apart again. Noticed that the float is bent not sure if this is much of a problem 

[DJ194950]

What part of the float is bent?

 

Mine that I recently had apart had a twist in the pivot area, which I straightened with two pliers carefully. Do not hold by the float part itself when straightening.

 

While the float is out remove the brass piece in the right bottom of the bowl area an blow a cleaner through the passage that lets gas into the accelerator pump barrel area. If the small ball is struck you can probably free it up without removed the pita clip to remove the ball. Much easier to do by cleaning from the bowl area passage. My small ball was stock in the hole-No accelerator pump flow.

 

DJ

[bambamshere]

I was looking at what I have done to this truck so far and miles that it has done in the past 9 years. Actual driven miles since this engine has been put in 300 miles. 9 years 300 miles.

 

I have put a alternator in it 3 years ago.

Brand new thermostat, new heater lines 2.5 years ago.

Brand new spark plugs, petronix Electronic ignition, new petronix coil, new spark plug wires 2 years ago 

Rebuilt Carburetor 2 years ago 

New oil pan gasket last year, plus trying to make it run.

New gaskets on front for timing chain cover, plus fuel lines fuel pump and look at carburetor this year. 

 

All that plus hrs of time and now the funny part. It still runs the same way. It stalls it runs like **** studdering and all. 

 

This trucks engine to work on is no longer fun. I just about to sludge hammer to engine 30 minutes ago because I think it would be fun. No point in getting it rebuilt. it has .060 pistons. It would probably need sleeves.

 

There only one more thing I can try and that is the Petronix Ignitor. From the magnetic sleeve to ignitor is supposed to be .030. I will look at that tonight or tomorrow. Does anyone else have anything I can try that I have forgotten 

[Plymouthy Adams]

40mm Howitzer ?   

 

When you do not know what is wrong, prove what is right....after all these years...nothing can be consider the same condition after sitting for what would appear long time between runs.  I would start with a compression test....I would verify that the valves are lashed proper, check you state of tune and yes pickup gap is important....no one here can shoot a magic bullet for you as they like myself have no first hand knowledge of these variables.  This B2B (back to basics) just might locate a problem or even a multiple problem.  You keep setting the timing every time you run this pup...with pertronix..set once...you done...

[Jeff Balazs]

It is easy to get frustrated by some of this stuff. I know I did. The thing is that these seem so simple on the surface that everything should be easy. But there are many "little things" that can trip you up. I bet I had my carb off at least 6 or 8 times before I got it correct. And it was something small and not readily apparent. Bad step up jet. Changed it out and cleaned everything again and bingo no more problems. Have more than 20,000 miles on it now. Trust me the frustration fades away.......and a day does not go by when I know it was worth all the effort I put into it.

Just gotta hang tough.

Jeff

[maok]

You need someone who can do a proper full tune up.

[bambamshere]

1 hour ago, maok said:

You need someone who can do a proper full tune up.

 

Buddy of mine was supposed to.come look at it back in May lol. But he came up with a excuse. It is 1950s technology. I laughed at him. He has a 1969 Sport Fury Convertible, a 1969 Sport Fury Hard Top and a 1970 Barracuda. Plus he is a mechanic. Oh well guess he was busy lol. I will just keep going. Frustrated right now leave it for a couple days I guess

[maok]

It's always good to walk away from it to clear the mind. When you have,

 

1. Confirm if the TDC pointer and TDC mark are correct by sticking a wire (foot long to make sure it doesn't fall down into the cylinder, I use the depth gauge of a vernier clapiers) down the plug hole above cylinder #6. The dizzy rotor should be pointing to #1 spark plug lead on the cap. Your previous posts about 20* advance seem a little dodgy...lol

 

2. Check the primary resistance of the ignition coil, does it meet Pertronixs specs?

 

3. Did you remove the condensor?

 

4. Is there a resistor in the ignition circuit from the previous points setup? Or ballast resistor?

 

.

.

.

 

 

Edited August 27, 2019 by maok

[Jeff Balazs]

It is smart to stand back and re-evaluate the situation. Could be one small thing....or a combination of several items. Best advice I can give is to not assume. Start with the basics like fuel delivery, spark and timing. Check it all carefully...take your time and don't make assumptions. Put fresh fuel in it. If you have old gas in it get rid of it. These new fuel formulations do not age well. Once you do get it running decent ...use it. There is a good chance it will run better and better with use.

 

Just so you know I revived the engine in my truck instead of rebuilding it. So lots of unknowns. But it has turned out fine because I was careful at every step. As a matter of fact it has been extremely reliable. And it needs to be as it is my only vehicle. Gets driven daily.

Just take your time and don't assume something is ok just because you changed it out recently. Prove it all out and bulletproof it as you go

 

[bambamshere]

I was going through some of the steps last night. Just in my head and remembered. About 2 months ago I had started the truck and heard a clicking noise. I couldn't figure it out. A buddy of mine came over and we looked at it. I can't believe I didn't see it. The #1 spark plug wire was arching on the exhaust manifold. My question is do you think it could have done anything to spark plug wire. I checked the electronic ignition yesterday and it seemed fine. Thing I may take that apart today and see how the weights look. Make sure spring are looking good

[Radarsonwheels]

I would replace that wire for sure. I don’t think the coil cares where the voltage goes when the field collapses but I’m not an electrical engineer. I would test a plug laid on the block and see how hot the spark looks.

[squirebill]

I have to ask a question.  What type of engine are you working on? I had assumed it was a Mopar flathead 6 but I am having a hard time figuring how the number 1 spark plug wire can be arcing to the exhaust manifold of a flathead 6.  Did I miss it somewhere in a previous post? Please advise.

[bambamshere]

Everything thing with spark and distributor is good. Yes flathead 6. I had taken #1 wire off and for some reason put it on the exhaust manifold or intake. What ever you chose to call it. I started it up and heard a ticking noise. It was #1 sparkplug wire

[Los_Control]

Only damage would be if the exhaust melted the wire, doubt you ran it long enough to cause that.

Old wires can cause issue, not really by age but having a zillion zaps ran through them, and then age on top of it ... how old are your wires?

 

I remember back when I was a broke teenager, open the hood at night and see a light show from the plug wires as they interacted with each other and the engine.

As a adult, I keep them fresh enough to not give off a light show.

[Plymouthy Adams]

40 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

 

As a adult, I keep them fresh enough to not give off a light show.

 

 

where is the fun in that...…………………????   ?

[HotRodTractor]

If you were arcing through the plug wire - replace all the plug wires. That shouldn't happen.

 

Also be aware that if things like your distributor cap have some age to them - you can have a similar issue with them arcing out or even between cylinders. I just went through this with an antique tractor that I was having issues with. It wasn't until I touched the distributor cap with the engine running (and missing) that I realized my cap was junk. It looked just fine. It did not however feel so great when I wasn't expecting. it. lol

[Plymouthy Adams]

what  a shocking realization...

[HotRodTractor]

16 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

what  a shocking realization...

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

as a electronics tech for umpteen years...we referred to this as taking a 'short' course in electricity......

[Merle Coggins]

Tim, was this you as an electronics Tech? ?

 

[Yzrider22k]

For what is forth, my electronic fuel pump on my B3B cuts out in third gear if my fuel level is too low.

[bambamshere]

I have looked at the wires. They are from napa and are 7mm. I checked the ohms on them it was between 720 to 630. These are newer plug wire 2 years old. Not sure if that makes a big difference 

[HotRodTractor]

2 minutes ago, bambamshere said:

I have looked at the wires. They are from napa and are 7mm. I checked the ohms on them it was between 720 to 630. These are newer plug wire 2 years old. Not sure if that makes a big difference 

 

If you saw them arc through the wires onto the engine anywhere - then it doesn't matter if you installed them this morning - they are no good.

[bambamshere]

So I had a good laugh about 2 hrs ago. See I just installed new fuel lines. If you have been reading along you know. Well see I was drilling a small hole through the frame and thought I was far enough away. Drill right through the fuel line. This was one of those ok walk away times. Fixed it all up. Good thing there was know spark.