YukonJack Posted May 30, 2020 Report Posted May 30, 2020 Start the engine cold. The upper radiator hose will remain cold until the thermostat opens. When it opens the upper hose will become hot. 1 Quote
NickPickToo Posted May 31, 2020 Author Report Posted May 31, 2020 (edited) Fixed the carbs. It was the float. I'm able to get all gears now, and it rides great. Tracks straight and handles bumps well. A little oil coming from between the trans and the engine again. Going to have to figure that out. Little bit of fluid coming from two of the head bolts. Do I re-torque in sequence while its at operating temp or let it cool back down first? Edited May 31, 2020 by NickPickToo Quote
YukonJack Posted May 31, 2020 Report Posted May 31, 2020 Some of the head bolts go into water passages. Did you put sealer on them? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 31, 2020 Report Posted May 31, 2020 (edited) that that do not go into the water jack go into the intake ports.....so 18 of the 21 are in the water jacket.....the corner bolts on close inspection will show opening to the water chamber of the block albeit a couple are small passages, as their relationship is close to the exhaust valves that get the cooling effect of the circulating water Edited May 31, 2020 by Plymouthy Adams 1 Quote
NickPickToo Posted May 31, 2020 Author Report Posted May 31, 2020 We sealed all of them -- its really only a trickle, but enough to want to fix it Quote
NickPickToo Posted May 31, 2020 Author Report Posted May 31, 2020 "Mad Max, Furry Road" Yes, our dogs name is Max 1 Quote
NickPickToo Posted May 31, 2020 Author Report Posted May 31, 2020 One more chassis only test drive video 2 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 31, 2020 Report Posted May 31, 2020 13 minutes ago, NickPickToo said: We sealed all of them -- its really only a trickle, but enough to want to fix it odds are they are going to seal themselves in time....the trickle you have is external to the pistons and valves...give your sealant time to swell and do its thing....If you sealed them on install....be a bit patient...sometimes this is a fix in a few miles...others it is a bit longer...you are not a pressurized sealed system so lick seep is not going to run your temp or create a spray.... 1 Quote
Los_Control Posted May 31, 2020 Report Posted May 31, 2020 16 hours ago, NickPickToo said: Do I re-torque in sequence while its at operating temp or let it cool back down first? I would think, since metal expands when heated, when cooled is optimal time. After a few times, at least 3 times if head was off ... should be no more movement. Twice probably gets it done, and 3 times is to be sure ... never hurts to do it 4 times though. 9 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said: odds are they are going to seal themselves in time... I agree with this also, if after re-tourquing the head is a small dribble, give it time. 1 Quote
Eneto-55 Posted May 31, 2020 Report Posted May 31, 2020 My MoPar manual says "Always re-tighten the cylinder head after the engine has been allowed to warm up." BUT, it doesn't say whether this should be done WHILE it is warm, or just sometime AFTER it has been warm. Quote
Los_Control Posted May 31, 2020 Report Posted May 31, 2020 36 minutes ago, Eneto-55 said: My MoPar manual says "Always re-tighten the cylinder head after the engine has been allowed to warm up." BUT, it doesn't say whether this should be done WHILE it is warm, or just sometime AFTER it has been warm. I agree, we are always told to re torque but they always say after you run it for x amount of time and then again after x amount of miles. Because of the temperature we run these engines ... 180 T-stat? I imagine the cylinders and head reach higher temps, exhaust manifold is several hundred degrees. but block is surrounded by a cooling system at 180 degrees it does not get too hot? I cook my dinner at 350 degrees, 180 is pretty cool. When you shut off the engine, cooling system stops working and we get heat soak, temp gauge rises ... When that goes back down in just a few minutes. In my mind any expansion / contraction is over. A busy mechanic may just as soon as it is cool enough to actually get the socket on it and get er did, push it out the door and get to the next job. Since I am not a mechanic, I have time for it to cool down and be comfortable to work on. Between the heat cycles and the compression of the engine, you get it up to temp for some time. There is aprox 120 psi compression on 2 cylinders at every firing stroke. Those head bolts really take a lot of abuse. Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted May 31, 2020 Report Posted May 31, 2020 (edited) 6 minutes ago, Los_Control said: There is aprox 120 psi compression on 2 cylinders at every firing stroke. Those head bolts really take a lot of abuse. Much more pressure than that when combustion occurs......... Edited May 31, 2020 by Sam Buchanan Quote
Los_Control Posted May 31, 2020 Report Posted May 31, 2020 9 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said: Much more pressure than that when combustion occurs......... Funny story about head bolts. At one time I was active in a Ford Explorer forum because I owned one. One of the forum members was a local community collage shop teacher, bought a all wheel drive explorer from a wrecking yard that needed a new wiring harness. Used it for teaching class. In the end they took it to the 1/4 mile race track for a couple years. Kept adding more horse power and bigger turbos .... rebuilding transmissions, Actually a pretty cheap cool car, with AWD, that thing would hook and go, While the car in the next lane was doing wheelies and burn outs and trying to get off the line, the explorer was 1/2 way down the track. At one point, He was losing a couple of quarts coolant racing the 1/4 mile and tried everything with new head gaskets new oem head bolts this went on for a few months. He finally realized because he did drive the car on the street to school and the track, was only when racing, the head bolts were stretching and the heads were lifting during the 1/4 mile race. He bit the bullet and bought high dollar head bolts for it, cured the issue. While some may think it stupid, was just a hrrr'm moment for me thinking about the limits of head bolts. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted June 1, 2020 Report Posted June 1, 2020 When a manual specifies to re-torque head bolts after getting the engine up to operating temperature I always torque them hot. Everything is warm and expanded, so this is the time to re-torque to get everything tight again. Quote
lepic56 Posted June 1, 2020 Report Posted June 1, 2020 23 hours ago, NickPickToo said: One more chassis only test drive video HAHA ride free in the wind,, must be a blast!!! well done, looks like you going down the road at a pretty good clip..(speed) Quote
NickPickToo Posted June 2, 2020 Author Report Posted June 2, 2020 (edited) On 6/1/2020 at 12:08 PM, lepic56 said: HAHA ride free in the wind,, must be a blast!!! well done, looks like you going down the road at a pretty good clip..(speed) Yes it was a fast pace. Dad was driving in this clip and he's more comfortable with a standard. Edited June 2, 2020 by NickPickToo 1 Quote
Eneto-55 Posted June 2, 2020 Report Posted June 2, 2020 8 hours ago, NickPickToo said: Yes it was a fast pace. Dad was driving in this clip and he's more comfortable with the a standard. I'm in my mid sixties now, but in my younger years I was hassled by police so many times that I would never have the nerve to run an open chassis up & down a public street. I'd have to find a private road to do that on. 1 Quote
NickPickToo Posted June 2, 2020 Author Report Posted June 2, 2020 (edited) 6 hours ago, Eneto-55 said: I'm in my mid sixties now, but in my younger years I was hassled by police so many times that I would never have the nerve to run an open chassis up & down a public street. I'd have to find a private road to do that on. Oh those are all private roads -- even the paved one in the sub near to us is considered a private road Edited June 2, 2020 by NickPickToo 2 Quote
NickPickToo Posted June 4, 2020 Author Report Posted June 4, 2020 (edited) We can't put it off any longer. I Have to do the body work now. We've welded angle iron to hold the a and b pillars in place while we cut and weld in new metal, mostly related to the floor pans. Advice or comments about this placement of the angle iron? This is already covered in a prior post, but this thread is way too long...we plan to replace the sill plates, rockers under the sill plates and the extensions up to the cowell with new metal sourced for us by Mr. Brandon (the plymouth dr. he's conveniently just up the road a few counties). Most of the other work will be small patches here and there and then some "Mud" to smooth a few of the rough edges (got that term off watching youtube) We are thinking about two different approaches. First approach is to cut out the braces from under the floor pan and then reconstruct the braces as they would sit on the chassis. We would mark the alignment of braces to the floor pans so we could re-align the body with floor pans back into place. This has the benefit of more visibility and room to work on the attachment points on the end of the braces and then room to work on the other items without the floor braces in the way. The downside is that we will probably cause more damage to the mid-floor pan and potentially the tunnel as we remove the braces. We also run the risk of misalignment when we put it back together. I'm less worried about the mid floor as that can be replaced with simple sheet metal and the brace to floor attachment points are already tearing as you can see from the sewing machine like holes in the photo The second approach is to place the body back on the chassis and then rebuilt the brace attachments in place. Benefit of this is that the alignment is not disturbed. Downside is that I would be welding in tight spaces and we would have to work around the floor braces for the other work. Advice or comments on either of the two approaches? Edited June 4, 2020 by NickPickToo Quote
casper50 Posted June 4, 2020 Report Posted June 4, 2020 put an X in the middle of the square. From driver a pillar to pass b pillar and pass a pillar to driver b pillar. Keeps it from swaying. 1 Quote
NickPickToo Posted June 4, 2020 Author Report Posted June 4, 2020 2 hours ago, casper50 said: put an X in the middle of the square. From driver a pillar to pass b pillar and pass a pillar to driver b pillar. Keeps it from swaying. Thank you! Does anyone have a view regarding the two approaches? My dad and I are leaning towards the first. Quote
NickPickToo Posted June 5, 2020 Author Report Posted June 5, 2020 "I'm thankful for filler, sandpaper and paint. It makes me the welder I ain't" Quote
Vin's 49 Plymouth Posted June 5, 2020 Report Posted June 5, 2020 Nick, go to my albums in my profile, it shows everything you are about to do. I had to learn the mig welder by just practicing on thin sheet butt welds. I started on the drivers side then pass, then moved to the back. The key is to find the factory tack welds and grind them off where you are going to cut out. Be careful not to warp the steel and hammer the tack welds, it helps. It's a fun time, enjoy it. 1 Quote
Dryerventwizard Posted June 6, 2020 Report Posted June 6, 2020 I love those front and back seats what did they cone out of I am trying g to fi d so e after market seats for my 1940 dodge that I am turning into a hot rod Quote
NickPickToo Posted June 14, 2020 Author Report Posted June 14, 2020 On 6/5/2020 at 9:07 PM, Dryerventwizard said: I love those front and back seats what did they cone out of I am trying g to fi d so e after market seats for my 1940 dodge that I am turning into a hot rod Those were original to my '47, can't wait to get them back in Quote
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