'50 Dodge B-2 Series Stepside Truck Repairs

[Andrew50]

Good points DJ194850.  This truck is already converted to 12v but I have to be careful nonetheless.

 

I have received the new fuel tank and gauge sender unit.  How can I use the sender unit to test the gauge that hasn't been working?

 

If I connect 6 volts direct  to the gauge's two connectors will it read full?  If I connect 12 volts direct will it read full and/or will it go up in a sparks and a  puff of smoke?

 

If I then wire in series the sender unit and then cycle the float will the gauge needle move accordingly?  How do I tell which wire on the back is ground?   Did someone say the 6v was positive ground?

 

 

[Andrew50]

I received this horn today in the mail.  It is better than it looks and should clean up nicely.  I made an offer and bought for less than the asking amount, but still kinda pricey.  If it will not honk is the noise generating part replaceable?

Maybe this is it:  https://dcmclassics.com/home/814-b-781-horn-replacement-6v-or-12v.html?search_query=Horn&results=5 

 

 

Edited May 16, 2018 by Andrew50

[Andrew50]

What kind of gasoline should this truck use?  I have access to ethonol free 87 octane and 93 octane.

[Todd B]

This has been an ongoing disagreement with others. My semi runs much better with Shell premium full.  There is a noticeable difference to other brands.  Citgo is the worst fuel I have came across. 

[JBNeal]

additional information - Marvel Mystery Oil Usage as Fuel Stabilizer 

Edited October 18, 2019 by JBNeal
revised link

[FlashBuddy]

Anecdotally, my truck started running funky, like sorta kinda mini missing on a cylinder here and there. I thought the timing might have slipped or my points/plugs fouled. The only thing I had done different was fill up the tank with a mid grade fuel and had not added MMO. So now I'm curious if going back to premium and getting a half six ounces of MMO into the tank will smooth things out and get Roxanne purring like a kitten again.

 

I agree with @JBNeal regarding oil, as well as other things. Modern equivalents can be a vast improvement over 60+ year technologies.

[ggdad1951]

non oxy pure gas..spendy, but so worth it

[FlashBuddy]

@ggdad1951 - Yeah, but you have to refine your own! Or do you. Never heard of it????

[Todd B]

Around here Shell premium doesn’t have ethanol in it.   The only fuel I use in my Harley, vintage tractor, semi and all small engines.  

[Young Ed]

1 hour ago, Todd B said:

Around here Shell premium doesn’t have ethanol in it.   The only fuel I use in my Harley, vintage tractor, semi and all small engines.  

I agree it's the best for these oldies. More so because of the no ethanol rather than the higher octane

[ggdad1951]

1 hour ago, FlashBuddy said:

@ggdad1951 - Yeah, but you have to refine your own! Or do you. Never heard of it????

 

several stations around here have that gas for small engines/antiques.   New gas is SOO bad for small engines, even modern, but even worse for small engines that are older.  We still haven't gone so far here in one direction yet to not have access to it.

[lonejacklarry]

https://www.pure-gas.org/       User maintained website for ethanol-free fuel locations.

Edited May 17, 2018 by lonejacklarry

[Andrew50]

I have fresh oil and filter.  Fresh spark plugs.  The plug wires look good.  The distributor cap and rotor look really good.

 

So how do I tune this truck?  It presently has points in the distributor, considering replacing with an electronic conversion.  What timing should I set and from which plug wire?  How do I adjust the carburetor?

 

I need a new ballast resistor because the one there is broken where the wire wraps around.  What ohm rating should I use?

 

Thank you.

Edited May 27, 2018 by Andrew50

[Andrew50]

Bringing this to the top again in hopes to get some assistance. 

[48Dodger]

"So how do I tune this truck?"

 

In general: do a normal tune-up for an internal combustion engine.

Bring the ignition system together first. plug gap/ignition timing/breaker point gap/dwell/breaker arm tension......

Check float height: 5/8 inch

Carb circuits: float level/idle rpm/idle circuit/accel-pump adjustment (power piston)/fast idle

Check the unloader tension arm for the choke

Use the nut plug over #6 to find top dead center and max vacuum pull.

Depending on the year or use or preference its 2deg BTC or 0deg BTC.

Minimum idle speed is 450 to 500 RPMS

Resistor plugs need more gap: 0.035 vs non resistor @ 0.025

Your tappets need to be adjusted. Good to try that while running. Can be done not running. 

Intake 0.008    Exhaust 0.010

Double check float height for starvation

Double check vacuum pull

Double check the unloader

Double check the valves for loose adjustments

Double check the nut above #6 after your done checking vacuum and timing

Check throttle connections

Check choke connections

let'er rip    

 

48D

 

P.S. Triple check the damn sparkplug wires for proper location.

  

 

 

 

Edited June 1, 2018 by 48Dodger

[Andrew50]

Thank you 48D.  Please excuse my ignorance.  I am pretty good at tuning the 60's era GM cars but this is outside my experience.

 

The 2 degrees before TDC just seems too little, but again I don't have previous experience  with this era engine.  Is this set with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged?

 

I am printing your instructions for benchtop reference.

 

 

[Merle Coggins]

4 hours ago, Andrew50 said:

Thank you 48D.  Please excuse my ignorance.  I am pretty good at tuning the 60's era GM cars but this is outside my experience.

 

The 2 degrees before TDC just seems too little, but again I don't have previous experience  with this era engine.  Is this set with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged?

 

I am printing your instructions for benchtop reference.

 

 

 

You could advance a little more without an issue. I believe I'm running close to 5 BTDC.

The vacuum advance on these works on ported vacuum, so with the throttle closed there should be no vacuum on the advance unit. You could disconnect and plug the line if you'd like, but as long as you have the proper idle setting it really isn't necessary.

[Andrew50]

Well I put the tuning on the back burner because for the first time I drove the truck to check steering, tuning and brakes.  The owner had earlier brought it to my garage where I replaced the fuel tank and a few other details.

 

Anyway, I didn't realize until I drove it that this truck really has no brakes.  ;-/    The pedal went to about 2" from the floor at which time I thought I had a tight pedal but still very little stopping power.  When I looked more closely I found the battery-to-starter cable was catching the brake pedal and preventing floor contact.  When I relocated that cable the pedal makes floor contact.

 

I found the master cylinder dry.  When filled they won't pump up and two of the  wheel cylinders are leaking.  I've pulled the front drums and loosened those cylinders but cannot loosen the flex hose where it attaches to the frame bulkhead.  I don't want to destroy them but it may take it.

 

The rear drums are yet to be pulled.  After I drill a few holes in a metal disc to lug screw to the drum I will apply pressure with the gear puller and hope they break lose.  The cotter pins look pretty recent and things are clean in there so hopefully they will come off without too much trouble.

 

Which leads me to this:  Does anyone make a pre-bent set of brake lines?  I find most needed parts at DCM Classics but don't see bulkhead fittings or the hard lines.  Where would I get the bulkhead fittings?  What is the degree of difficulty to bend your own?  I suppose I could use the old tubing as a pattern.

 

I attached a photo for your viewing. 

 

Thanks all,

Andrew

 

 

Edited June 5, 2018 by Andrew50

[dodgemex53]

23 minutes ago, Andrew50 said:

Bueno, puse la sintonía en el quemador trasero porque, por primera vez, manejé el camión para verificar la dirección , el ajuste y los frenos. El dueño lo había traído antes a mi garaje donde reemplacé el tanque de combustible y algunos otros detalles.

 

De todos modos, no me di cuenta hasta que lo conduje que este camión realmente no tiene frenos. ; - / El pedal fue a aproximadamente 2 "del piso en ese momento pensé que tenía un pedal apretado pero todavía muy poca potencia de frenado. Cuando miré más de cerca, encontré que el cable de la batería al arranque estaba atrapando el pedal del freno y impidiendo el contacto con el piso. Cuando reubiqué ese cable, el pedal hace contacto con el piso.

 

Encontré el cilindro maestro seco. Cuando se llenan, no se bombean y dos de los cilindros de la rueda tienen fugas. Saqué los tambores delanteros y aflojé esos cilindros, pero no puedo aflojar la manguera flexible donde se une al mamparo del marco. No quiero destruirlos, pero puede tomarlo.

 

Los tambores traseros aún no se han tirado. Después de perforar unos agujeros en un disco de metal para sujetar el tornillo al tambor, aplicaré presión con el extractor de engranajes y espero que se rompan. Los pasadores de chaveta se ven muy recientes y las cosas están limpias allí, así que con suerte saldrán sin demasiados problemas.

 

Lo que me lleva a esto: ¿Alguien hace un conjunto de líneas de freno doblado previamente? En DCM Classics encuentro la mayoría de las piezas necesarias, pero no veo accesorios de mampara ni las líneas duras. ¿Dónde conseguiría los herrajes? ¿Cuál es el grado de dificultad para doblar el tuyo? Supongo que podría usar las viejas piezas como un patrón.

 

Gracias a todos,

Andrés

 

 

For brake lines check in Vic's dodge garage.com

 

 

[FlashBuddy]

The flex hose: Unscrew the brass connector on the inside of the frame rail. Then you can put a deep socket on the retaining nut, a wrench on the outside brake hose connector and remove. Pretty tight on the inside to get tools in. I think we used an extension, or it might have just been my son's Superman grip

 

I bent my own brake lines with a borrowed tool from OReillys  Auto Parts. I mismanaged the removal and broke the lines. I've broken three out of four so far. At least I have a lot of new brake lines now.

[motterso]

inline tube has everything. perfect fit.

brake lines

https://www.inlinetube.com/_p/prd14/2914378771/product/48-dodge-pickup-3-4t-b-series-brake-lines-cdb4801

and fuel

https://www.inlinetube.com/_p/prd14/2914386041/product/48-dodge-pu-3-4-ton-b-series-fuel-lines-cdf4801

[Todd B]

The color looks like my 97’ ultra classic Harley. Awesome looking truck 

[Andrew50]

 

3 hours ago, FlashBuddy said:

The flex hose: Unscrew the brass connector on the inside of the frame rail. Then you can put a deep socket on the retaining nut, a wrench on the outside brake hose connector and remove. Pretty tight on the inside to get tools in. I think we used an extension, or it might have just been my son's Superman grip

 

I bent my own brake lines with a borrowed tool from OReillys  Auto Parts. I mismanaged the removal and broke the lines. I've broken three out of four so far. At least I have a lot of new brake lines now.

I'll try that on the flex line to hard line.  But since I am replacing all the lines I can cut the flex line and use a socket on the fitting.

3 hours ago, motterso said:

inline tube has everything. perfect fit.

brake lines

https://www.inlinetube.com/_p/prd14/2914378771/product/48-dodge-pickup-3-4t-b-series-brake-lines-cdb4801

and fuel

https://www.inlinetube.com/_p/prd14/2914386041/product/48-dodge-pu-3-4-ton-b-series-fuel-lines-cdf4801

This afternoon I talked with Todd with DCM Classics.  He said they have the pre-bent lines but had not yet put them on the website.  This afternoon he added them to the website and the price is similar to the Inlinetube costs.  I've used Inlinetube products before, they have good stuff.

1 hour ago, Todd B said:

The color looks like my 97’ ultra classic Harley. Awesome looking truck 

That has to be a great looking Harley.  I am liking this dark green color.

Edited June 6, 2018 by Andrew50

[Todd B]

I was told they only made that color one year 1997. It certainly looks like my bike

[Andrew50]

The rear drum removal is being stubborn.  Ideas?  This is the passenger side. Have not yet tried the driver's side.

 

 

Edited June 6, 2018 by Andrew50