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About Andrew50

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    South East of Due West, West of Ninety Six in Greenwood, SC
  • Interests
    Old cars and trucks
  • My Project Cars
    1950 Dodge B2B Stepside Pickup

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  • Location
  • Interests
    Wrenching on old vehicles, bicycle riding, shooting

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  1. Yeah, I saw that too was puzzled. Thanks. Hey Guys. This truck came back to me a couple weeks ago for more work. I've now replaced the whole wiring harness and replaced the water pump with parts purchased from DCM Classics. The old water pump was unbelievably worn out. Bearings were shot and seals leaking. The engine is now so much quieter with the valves also adjusted. So yesterday, for the first time, I took the truck for a real ride. As it gets to 40mph it develops quite a shimmy/shake seemingly on the front left side. I checked toe in with a tape measure and
  2. I actually set these valves on the loose side of .008 and .010. I am hearing no clicking and don't feel like now going through them again. In reading my B2B shop manual in the engine section I see the valve train covered but not the valve setting specs. I am pleased with how much quieter the engine became. On every vehicle I ever timed the light connected to plug wire #1. I read this vehicle to connect to #6 and thought that odd from the git-go. I do have the paint pen and will put it to use. Wonder why the timing tab is directly at the 12 o'clock position where one cannot d
  3. About 20 years ago I got to explore the Denver area extending to Castle Rock and Colorado Springs. I went to hike a place named Blue Lake that was above Boulder. Colorado is a beautiful part of our country. Anyway, I learned the valves should be .008 intake and .010 exhaust in a Google search and on page two of this thread. I tried setting while idling but found engaging both wrenches concurrently while taking an oil shower was quite the challenge. So with the engine warm I bumped it over to set each valve. Now you say .010 & .014 hot. Are you sure this isn't a cold engi
  4. Adjusting the valves should be fun. What size feeler gauge for intake and exhaust?
  5. Well this truck's access port is offset from the fuel sender unit by about 1/2 of the diameter. It did allow me to reach with multi-meter but I was hoping for a larger opening. I dropped the tank and determined a few things. The tank is filled to about 5" to a possible 12" overall depth including the reduced width area. Ten gallons in an 18 gallon tank should register about 1/2 full, I think. The sending unit was preset to extend to 1" above the bottom of the tank, not to the bottom. This is to have some reserve gasoline. The sweep of the sending unit correct
  6. So I used the DCM fuel sender unit and wired a 12v to 6v diode inline to the gauge. I mock wired the sender unit before install and watched the gauge hand sweep from empty to full when I moved the float arm. Now I have it all assembled and with ten gallons of gasoline it reads barely 1/4 full. I suspect the new DCM fuel tank is 20 gallons or less so it should be reading at least 1/2 full. I did a visual check of the float arm length before install and was satisfied it would reach the bottom of the tank when empty, but maybe the arm length needs checked, which means dropping the tank. Thou
  7. Well I got it all sorted out and today took the truck for a drive. The brakes feel good and it stops straight. I am satisfied with them. The engine valves are chattering and demand my attention. I will again view the video posted earlier and will tackle them. This truck has front turn signals but no rear turn signals. There is a breakdown in the wiring somewhere. No brake lights either and no obvious wires to connect to the master cylinder brake switch. The wiring overall looks pretty bad. Now looking at the possibility of replacing the entire wiring harness.
  8. What are the torque specs for the castle nut securing the rear drum to the tapered axle? Purchased the spare tire hanger. How does this install? https://dcmclassics.com/body-parts/475-b-606-spare-tire-carrier-15-16-20-wheels.html
  9. That $12 spent at Harbor Freight for the brake spring tool was money well spent. I cannot imagine being strong enough to string them across with channel locks. Got all the shoes set with the drums and then bled the brakes. Everything went well except for the brake indicator switch attached to the front of the master cylinder that leaks around the electrical connect pins. 😨 Thankfully Steve at DCM Classics is sending a replacement free of charge. Next I will again align the shoes with the drums then tighten and secure the castle nuts with cotter pins. How much drag should
  10. Shouldn't the drum surface have some roughness to help bed the shoes? I know it helps to have the flywheel a little rough to bed in a new disc. I've gotten my hands on a pair of drum spring pliers. Even with them these springs have a lot of tension and they are difficult to get installed.
  11. In that picture it is hard to see but I did mask off the shoe contact surfaces. They are all smooth surfaced and I've been considering how I might rough them up a little bit. I see you are in Greer. Howdy neighbor!
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