Me and the Meadowbrook

[LazyK]

old car timing chain stretch??? under load no play, as soon as you let off the gas the chain relaxes and your timing is off. can be checked with a timing light, if the timing jumps around you have a timing chain issue.

Just a thought

[DJ194950]

And/or distributor bushings worn.

 

DJ

[Worden18]

5-9-20:

Got my vintage Sears vacuum gauge in the mail today.  It works just fine.  I hooked it up to the threaded port on top of the intake manifold toward the firewall like one of the fellas mentioned in an earlier post.  Started the car and let it fully warm up.  The vacuum gauge read a jumpy 10-13".  I was happy the reading was so poor, that meant I could improve it.  I shut the car off and loosened the distributor hold down bolt.  I also unscrewed the vacuum advance line.  Started the car again.  I advanced the timing and the vacuum reading moved in the direction of zero and the car sputtered. Wrong way.  Retarded the timing... vacuum gauge maxed out around14-16" but was jumpy.  Engine smoothed out. Tightened the distributor hold down bolt.  Then I moved the gauge to the passenger side and began adjusting the idle mixture screw.  I got the vacuum gauge to stay between 15-16".  Things smoothed out significantly.  Engine off.  Vacuum advance line screwed back in.  Distributor loosened one more time.  Started engine again.  Gently turned distributor to see where the gauge would even out now.  Got it to stay between 15-16".  Engine running probably about as smooth as I'm ever going to get it without replacing the carburetor in my opinion. Slight needle jump but acceptable.  I was WAY off before on the timing and idle mixture screw setting.  Picture is before I had the gauge hooked up.

Edited May 10, 2020 by Worden18

[Worden18]

5-9-20:

Took it out for a test drive and it's running pretty smooth despite the crappy muffler.  No pinging at low rpm or under a load.  No misfires or backfiring.  I think I got it fellas.  The gauge don't lie.  Muffler is next.  

 

[falconvan]

Nice! I’ll have to try that. You running points or an electronic ignition?

[keithb7]

Cool report @Worden18 . Now I plan to try setting my timing the same way. However not until my vintage Snap-On dwell meter/tachometer arrives this coming week. I am excited to set the dwell properly! Then the idle. I have no idea what my idle speed and dwell actually are.Then I will hook up my vacuum gauge as you did and try setting the timing and idle adjustment screw. Better yet I get to do it twice. Once on each car!  Exciting stuff no doubt.

[Worden18]

3 hours ago, falconvan said:

Nice! I’ll have to try that. You running points or an electronic ignition?

Pertronix

[Tim Larson]

This advice will likely come in handy when I continue to try to get my neighbor's '51 Desoto back on the road. The ignition is being stubborn...

 

Thanks for sharing your experience!

[Worden18]

5-15-20:

Yesterday a friend came over with his sawzall so we could tackle the muffler.  I already removed the clamps.  The muffler pipe chewed up the blade.  Gonna need a torch to get that thing off.  I've decided to just take it back to the guy who originally put the new exhaust on.  He has the proper tools, and more importantly a hoist. 

So the muffler is kinda crappy then, mostly at idle.  After a nice fire and some Johnny Cash in the backyard, I fired up the Meadowbrook.  It started right up.  We drove all over town and on the highway at 55mph as well.  No misfires or backfiring or anything.  The car seemed to run about half the thickness of the temp gauge hotter than what I'm used to.  Probably because it's not running rich anymore.  I'll keep an eye on that.  After a few more test runs I'll pull the plugs and look at them.  

Here's a couple of dark pics for you guys.  Gotta laugh at those ?

[Worden18]

5-15-20:

So, after we made it home I sat in the car for the un-magic amount of time (5-20 minutes) that I usually end up with vapor lock (yeah I know, it's not called vapor lock but I can't remember the proper term) and the car starts hard.  It always starts, just harder than normal.  Any, not this time.  It started right up.  ? The temp gauge is pegged out after shut off, as usual.  

[Worden18]

5-15-20:

Quick pic after the restart test.  With the right lighting you can see the paint strokes from the factory on the hood.  Fender has some good patina going on too ?

[Bbdakota]

11 hours ago, Worden18 said:

The car seemed to run about half the thickness of the temp gauge hotter than what I'm used to

 

Timing will cause one to run hotter also. Not just initial timing but mechanical and vaccum advance play a part. My diaphragm in my vaccum can was broken and fixing the vacuum advance, checking mechanical timing and vacuum advance timing to know where everything was helped my car run cooler. 

[51_Meadowbrook]

John, why is the temp gauge pegged after shut off? 

Edited May 19, 2020 by 51_Meadowbrook

[Worden18]

2 hours ago, 51_Meadowbrook said:

John, why is the temp gauge pegged after shut off? 

The engine (any engine), gets hotter after it's turned off and no coolant/air is running through.  Or do you mean why does the gauge itself work after the engine/key is shut off?  The gauge is mechanical (at least on my car) and shows the temp whether the engine is on or not.  If you sit behind the wheel long enough you can watch it slowly come back down.

[keithb7]

Heat soak it the term used when the engine is shut off and left to sit. Quickly, everything bakes as there is no more circulating coolant moving heat away. Gas evaporating form the float bowl, and possible vapour lock in the fuel lines can be symptoms when heat soak takes it's toll. As @Worden18 mentions, you will see the temp gauge rise. This is prime time when you are most susceptible to problems as you attempt to restart the engine. That's been my experience.

[Worden18]

May 20, 2020:

Out for a cruise with my two older kids tonight.  Still sporting the crappy muffler.  The picture is the band shell here in Winona, MN.  They have summer concerts there.  Interesting read:

http://winonamunicipalband.org/history/the-winona-lake-park-bandshell/

Edited May 21, 2020 by Worden18

[tom'sB2B]

I thought I've heard of Winona.

 

[lepic56]

WOW!!  Great story about the BandShell, older than your Dodge !!  lol

and  the Commercials about Winona in Winona ,, so funny and there more than one video of  Big game 2020, 

I remenber the 3 seasons on Nexflix called ,, FARGO (the series),,  set in Minnesota and North Dakota,, just can wait for the fourth seasons. The show is inspired by 1996 film..

Thank you for sharing a piece of history about area..

 

[Merle Coggins]

Wasn't the Grumpy Old Men movies based in Winona? 

[Worden18]

15 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said:

Wasn't the Grumpy Old Men movies based in Winona? 

Wabasha, MN.  Just up the river 20 miles ?

[Merle Coggins]

18 hours ago, Worden18 said:

Wabasha, MN.  Just up the river 20 miles ?

 

Oh yeah... that's right. Thanks. 

I was close... it starts with a "W".  ?

[51_Meadowbrook]

John, I know we are off my question already of the temp gauge being at hot but it’s my first time back on here. I understand that engines heat up as they sit. I have the same engine and same car and when my car shuts off it goes up only a slight bit. It does not go to the HOT point. The engine is not suppose to be at an overheat point when it shuts off. That would mean any time you shut the car off and turn it back on it is overheating and that’s not good for the engine.  My needle is a little before the dot on the temperature gauge when it is at normal operating temperature of 180 degrees. Then when it is shut off it goes to the dot, which is 3/4 of the way up the gauge. I know your engine is rebuilt so I assume you bathed the engine when it was out to clean it up. I haven’t done that yet but I essentially did the same thing by using the Evaporust Thermocure designed for cleaning the cooling system. If the general consensus is that the needle being at the HOT level is normal and ok then I won’t argue the point. It just seems odd based on my experience and I’d hate for your engine to be silently in trouble. 

[Worden18]

2 hours ago, 51_Meadowbrook said:

John, I know we are off my question already of the temp gauge being at hot but it’s my first time back on here. I understand that engines heat up as they sit. I have the same engine and same car and when my car shuts off it goes up only a slight bit. It does not go to the HOT point. The engine is not suppose to be at an overheat point when it shuts off. That would mean any time you shut the car off and turn it back on it is overheating and that’s not good for the engine.  My needle is a little before the dot on the temperature gauge when it is at normal operating temperature of 180 degrees. Then when it is shut off it goes to the dot, which is 3/4 of the way up the gauge. I know your engine is rebuilt so I assume you bathed the engine when it was out to clean it up. I haven’t done that yet but I essentially did the same thing by using the Evaporust Thermocure designed for cleaning the cooling system. If the general consensus is that the needle being at the HOT level is normal and ok then I won’t argue the point. It just seems odd based on my experience and I’d hate for your engine to be silently in trouble. 

Michael,

Okay I understand what you're getting at now.  Thanks for the post and your concern.  I appreciate you looking out for me ?

Anyway, I'm no expert on this stuff.  I'm certain my car is never going to boil over or develop a crack in the block.  Sounds a little arrogant as I type this, but I don't mean it that way.  I have 10-12K miles on the rebuild, and those are miles at speeds up to 70mph and at parade creeping speeds too, and in temps from -33F to 98F.  My engine was completely cleaned by my builder (with some type of acid wash), and the distribution tube was in great shape.  Also, I absolutely trust the Evans waterless coolant I use, which is guaranteed for the life of the engine, even if the car changes owner's hands.  The boiling point is 375F and I believe it's -65F on the other end.  Now, as far as why my temp needle pegs out and yours does not, I haven't a clue.  Could just be the differences in the engines or coolants, maybe one or the other's gauges may be faulty?   I honestly don't have a clue.  I know that most of the Fords I've owned were so hot after engine shut off that I had to wear gloves to pop the hood most of the time.  I also know that the 413 industrial truck engine in my 69 Dodge fire truck has such good flow (and sodium filled exhaust valves don't hurt) that at full temperature you can hold on to the valve covers with your bare hand for as long as you want and not get burned.  

Anyway, anyone who has any opinions please share ?

[Worden18]

Aug. 17:

I have an Empi carb, linkage, and air cleaner coming from Langdon's.  Hoping to have good results so I can get it back on the road.  Anyone else running a 32/36 carb?

[Tim Larson]

On 8/17/2020 at 8:56 PM, Worden18 said:

Aug. 17:

I have an Empi carb, linkage, and air cleaner coming from Langdon's.  Hoping to have good results so I can get it back on the road.  Anyone else running a 32/36 carb?

 

Sorry I can't give any comments or input - just glad to see an update from you. Been wondering how you've been enjoying the Meadowbrook this summer!