Oil pan gasket installment

[babyboy49]

Kind of confused about oil pan install . How do the ends go if your not supposed to cut them? Do they fold over the side gasket or do they fold under or stick straight up?

[Dodgeb4ya]

Don't cut off the two oil pan end cork gaskets!

[busycoupe]

The cork strips that lay in the grooves at the ends of the pan stick straight up.  They are compressed when you snug up the pan bolts.  It is also helpful to use extra long bolts at each corner of the pan to help limit up and to  tighten the pan enough to start the other bolts.  When several of the regular bolts are started you can replace the long bolts with ones of the proper length.  Also, after the engine has run awhile you should retighten the pan bolts because those cork strips will have compressed.

Dodgeb4ya's diagram is correct.

Edited March 17, 2017 by busycoupe

[babyboy49]

Thank you guys! I appreciate the illustration and the tip with the longer end bolts! 

Here is a picture of my 49, Its my first Mopar!

[TodFitch]

And don't crank down too much on the pan bolts: It is fairly easy to deform the sheet metal on the pan and then making a seal is even harder. Take them all up gently and uniformly going around the pan several times to before you get to your final torque. My first cut at looking for the torque specs has failed, but I recall they are not tightened all that much. Probably a 3/8" ratchet using only your wrist should be enough.

[greg g]

I usually use a pattern similar to the cylinder head.  Start in the center and alternate side to side moving out towards the ends.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Even more input....!!!

The (4) ends of the oil pan side rail gaskets should be positioned on top of the curved shape oil pan end gaskets that poke up 1/2"" above the pan flange surface-then the side gasket bolt holes need to line up.

I push in two  very small pins at each end of the pan rail side gasket  down into the curved pan end gaskets to help hold the gaskets tightly together while the pan is bolted up to the block. The pins stay in place permanently. I also like to install four 2" long studs at the oil pan corner bolt holes to help guide and hold the ends of the gaskets in place when pushing the oil pan into place as mentioned above..

You can also use thin sewing needle thread to hold the side pan gaskets in place along the side rails of the pane.. or use two or three temporary guide studs on each side of the block to keep the gaskets from moving while assembling the pan to block. Use silicone sealer at the corner end junctions of the pan rail side to end gaskets and gasket sealer on pan to gasket- pan side only. I Leave block side dry as do other flathead owners.. This helps keep the gasket from squishing-sliding out of position.

[babyboy49]

Perfect thanks guys good heads up! I tend to over torque everything and my next question was going to be about the gasket corners and if they rook some silicone. 

[austinsailor]

I read through the answers thinking I might add something. Nope, every thought I had was covered!

But - that looks to me like a cool low rider. Am I right? More pictures? Gotta have more pictures!

[babyboy49]

Perfect TodFitch good heads up! I tend to over torque everything!

[babyboy49]

[babyboy49]

[babyboy49]

[DonaldSmith]

You need a few more gizmos on your car.  Maybe a pair of spotlights - they don't have to be functional. and maybe something for the top of the antenna, which should be fully extended.  Your air deflector should have a propeller on it.  Well, maybe not.  The car looks good now.  Enjoy it.  

[Don Coatney]

I  used gasket cement on one side only for the side gaskets. This held it in alignment for instillation. I used grease on the other side and grease only on both sides of the end pieces. By doing this I have been able to removed the oil pan and re-install it several times without using a new gasket each time.

[Merle Coggins]

5 hours ago, Don Coatney said:

...By doing this I have been able to removed the oil pan and re-install it several times without using a new gasket each time.

Why do you need to keep removing the oil pan? I've never had to remove mine since I installed it the first time.

[T120]

19 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said:

Why do you need to keep removing the oil pan? I've never had to remove mine since I installed it the first time.

Regardless of whether a person finds it necessary to remove the oil pan again, it won't necessarily require replacing the gasket. I've use the same method installing an oil pan gasket.

[Don Coatney]

1 hour ago, Merle Coggins said:

Why do you need to keep removing the oil pan? I've never had to remove mine since I installed it the first time.

Additional oil pan modifications for tie rod clearance. Remember I installed a 25" engine to replace a 23" engine.

[Flatie46]

12 hours ago, babyboy49 said:

Nice car, got a little shine to it. Sure wasn't that slick when new. I'd like for the guy who painted it to paint mine but I doubt I could afford him.

[Mike36]

Don, in your picture it appears that the side gaskets have the ends cut to fit against the end seals that are sticking up. An earlier post says the side gasket ends rest on top of the seals which are sticking up. Am I looking at this wrong? Thanks.

 

[Mike36]

On March 17, 2017 at 0:59 AM, babyboy49 said:

Perfect thanks guys good heads up! I tend to over torque everything and my next question was going to be about the gasket corners and if they rook some silicone. 

The best teacher I know is pain. After you have tried removing a few inaccessible bolts you twisted off, your habit of over torquing will go away.

[Feudin_Wagon]

I notch where the gaskets come together and then cut them off flush. Then apply a skim coat of silicone on the thing. No leaks at all yet. Actually, my 230 leaks way less oil than a couple of my more modern heaps. 

[dudley32]

What a nice lookin' car...

[ozzmonaut]

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I am a little confused. I have a 48 so my situation might be a little different. My gasket set has the gaskets that fit under retainer flanges at both ends. But the set comes with O-rings which have instructions to cut and use for front main cap seals. Is this correct? The diagram above shows an oil seal with holes at the rear of the pan, but nothing like that came with this kit.