ozzmonaut

Thanks. I know I can get numbers off of the parts when I remove them. But, this is my daily driver. I drive an 85 d250 in the meantime. But I figure if I can get the parts on hand ahead of time, it might decrease my time off the road.

Thanks. Any tips on what is going to happen when I pull this thing apart? I have never pulled a diff apart. Axles are out. I have looked at some exploded diagrams, but can't really tell what holds everything together in there. Is it difficult to get the pinion out of there? Thanks again.

I hate to bring back an old thread, but this is where I am at. I believe my pinion bearing is shot. With the rear end off the ground and car running in reverse, the rear end squeaks where the pinion comes through the housing. When driving in reverse (wheels on the ground), it makes terrible clacking noises. Sounds fine going forward. I am fairly sure that with it jacked up, the weight being off of the bearing is what quiets it. Seal is not leaking and diff is still full of oil. Anyways, I have replaced the rear axle bearings, as I thought the noise was coming from the rear driver side. So now I have the axles back out and am about to disconnect the driveshaft and pull the carrier. Does anyone have the correct part numbers for the pinion seal, bearing, and carrier gasket? The pinion seal looks easy enough to find. The carrier gasket appears to be fel-pro RDS 4290, but I am not absolutely certain. The bearing... I am having some real trouble tracking down. Thanks for any help you can give me.

Once I realized that air had made it to the front lines, everything bled out and pumped up great.

Yeah, the single-circuit MC conundrum kind of slipped my mind. I'm just glad that parts are so readily available for this car. I have another vehicle that there are not really aftermarket parts available for. Especially brakes. Basically everyone just hordes original MCs and wheel cylinders and keeps resleeving, honing, and resealing them. But for this car I can pop online and pretty much get anything I need for fairly cheap. It sure makes it easy.

The good news is that I had underestimated how much fluid had been lost. Enough to allow air into the front lines... that's how much.

Yeah. I adjusted each one out until it locked the drum from turning, then adjusted it back in until it just barely let loose. I will try adjusting them back out to where the drums are locked, just to see if that is the issue. Maybe i am missing the "sweet spot" between locked and loose. I arced the shoes pretty much perfectly when I installed them. It makes it very difficult to find that spot because there is such a slight turn of the minor adjustment nuts between full shoe-to-drum contact and zero contact. But at least locking them down will help eliminate the MC as the culprit. Thanks for the input.

So I have a curious issue with my 48 Special Deluxe. About a year and a half or so ago, I had a wheel cylinder go bad, and decided to change all of them. After the install was done, I could not get the system to bleed properly, or so I thought. I decided to replace the MC because it was old and likely no better than the wheel cylinders. My thinking was that it was damaged when the pedal went the floor when the wheel cyl failed. Replacing the MC seemed to do the trick. Everything bled and the pedal held tight and my brakes felt like on a new car. Due to a mistake of my own, a wheel cylinder was recently damaged. I replaced both rears even though they were not very old. I am now having the same issue bleeding the system. I believe the air is out. I can pump the pedal a few times and everything feels up to snuff. But once I let off of the pedal for a minute, it goes right back to the floor on the next try. This is exactly what happened last time when I had to replace the MC. Is it possible that everythime the pedal goes to the floor, it instantly kills the MC. This can't be possible... right? I would imagine not, but here we are unable to get the system right with the exact same symptoms as before. Thanks for any help you can give me.

I'd bet that 288 is a fun engine! So the imperial was basically just a series 80, so top speed 80mph. Now I just need to figure out how to tell the difference visually between a 180 and 218. I can find a lot of pics of early 218's, but not much imagery for 180's.

Maybe the 70 had a 218 as well? I did see some references to it having a 3.6L, but the information varied between production years.

1927 Chrysler Guide - Classics on Autotrader This link seems to echo what I have seen in several other spec outlines. Supposedly, the series 50 had a 170, series 60 had the 218, and series 70 had the 288.

I know this is a little before the time frame specified for this part of the forum. But I'm sure folks here will have the answers. What would be external differences that can help differentiate between the late 20's 218 and 288? My guess is that they were the same block but with a slightly larger bore and stroke. Obviously, I do not want to remove the head on a perfectly good engine to check the piston size. Thanks

But does the fender look correct for 48? The ones I see are flat, while the rear of my fender curves in very far , making flat skirts an impossible fit. The other ones I see curve in like my fender, but are more rounded at the top than my fender opening is.

I would like to purchase fender skirts for my 48. However, I have found 2 different styles available, and neither looks as though they will fit my fenders. I'm posting a couple of pictures in case my fenders are incorrect. The color under the black is the same as the rest of the car, but I guess you never really know. Hopefully you guys can take a look and see if we can determine what I need to be looking for. One style of skirts looks like the wrong overall shape. The other just does not look as though it would fit the inward curve at the rear of the wheel arch. Thanks for taking a look and in advance for your help.

Thanks for the help. I tried bleeding without the shoes tight at first, but once I realized I was getting nowhere, decided to tighten them. I did not really think about the return. I just bench bled the new MC and got it put in. Going to wait til tomorrow to bleed the system again.

I can see the cup moving, but difficult to tell if the vent is returning. I doubt the MC is the culprit, or else I would have seen issues before the wheel cylinder started leaking. But at this point, there are no more components to check. I am getting fluid from every bleeder, so there are no clogs or collapsed hoses. No leaks, so the fluid has nowhere else to go but into the cylinders. The shoes are against the drum walls, so there can be no excess movement of the cylinders to push the shoes. What else is left?

Like I said, I had run about a quart through the lines bleeding. Now that's up to about a quart and a half. As a precaution, I had the concentrics marked. I now have the shoes tight against the drum on all wheels to aid in the bleeding process. Have been bleeding in order, furthest from the MC first. I did not move the major adjusters. I marked where the arrows pointed to on the backing plate, and installed them the same. At least when the brakes leaked, I HAD brakes. Now I have to ride a bike back and forth to work until I get this right. I have a new MC on the way. The one on it was working fine, but I have no other ideas as to what to do. It should be a relatively simple fix. With the shoes against the drums, fluid has no option but to force out of the bleeders. There is no place for air bubbles to be hiding. The fluid coming from the bleeders seems to have no bubbles in it. It just comes out smooth and steady.

So, this started with slightly weak braking, but no sponginess. Then I determined that the front driver top wheel cylinder was leaking. The pressure was still good on the brakes, and was still able to stop fine. I changed all wheel cylinders, using the original pins from cylinder to shoe. I have the copper washers in place on the front hoses. I did have to loosen the shoes up front with the adjusters, but I marked and set everything back to where it was, since the brakes worked well before at these settings. Now I have bled the system multiple times, and have gone through about a quart of fluid. Still can't get any pedal. Given that the master was providing plenty of pressure when this occurred, that the shoes worked well where they were set, and that there are no leaks currently from any cylinders, lines, hoses, fittings, etc, what would be other causes of not getting pressure at the pedal? Thanks

I definitely plan to track down what the wire goes to. It is funny to me that every aspect of the car works as normal with the wire disconnected except the ammeter. My comment about heavier gauge wire was in reference to to the cable from the alternator to the battery. The other wire was small and looked a little sad. I just used the opportunity to add a heavier wire.

I believe the issue is related to the ammeter. I disconnected a wire from the starter solenoid. It was one of 2 wires on that particular post. This stopped the drain. At this point I did not know if the car would crank. It did, and all functions including ignition, lights, heater fan, etc. still work. Except for the ammeter. I now have the alternator wire hooked to the negative battery terminal. It is a terminal with multiple connection points so I was able to use a higher gauge wire than what was there. Would this cause any issues long-term? I can't imagine that it would. I will just remove the VR and throw it in the spare parts bin. I have a feeling a previous owner connected the ammeter separate from the regular harness at some point. Later on, I plan to replace every wire on this thing with new cloth-covered wire, but this lets me drive for now.

I may just have to get one from quality power to eliminate the possibility. Another option may be to place a relay between the alternator and external VR, and wire the relay to close when the key is on.

I'm not really sure. I bought it on ebay. (I know, I know)

So I got another new battery, just a basic battery. Hooked it up. Cranks fine and all, but after turning off the car, I didn't drive it for a few days and drained the battery. I charged it up, cranked the car, etc. Alternator is still pushing out 7.5V or so. After turning the car off, the voltage on the battery is 6.46, but starts to drop quickly, gets to 6.27 and then drops slower. I have disconnected any electrical, lights, gauges, ignition. Just wanted to see if it still drops. It does. Is it possible that the one-wire alternator, being self-exciting, it pulling voltage while the car is off? It is run to the regulator, so it should not be able to draw with the key off. But just in case... Thanks

I had 7.5V from the alt. I got the optimas to charge with an old charger. Unfortunately, once disconnected from the charger, the voltage began to drop quickly. It was at 2V in a couple of minutes. Being as nothing in the cars electronics was draining the battery before, I tend to think that is not the case. The old battery will charge to 6.3V on a charger, but once I try to start the car it barely turns the starter and immediately drops to about 5.3V. However, if the alternator is a negative ground, I fear it may be sending power to the negative side, and grounding through the chassis. If this occurs, it seems the battery could discharge due to this. The gen and F leads are disconnected and all is taped up.

So I removed the optima batteries, put my old battery back in, which was working before. Cranked the car up, checked voltage, etc. The next day the battery was dead. Tried charging it. It is ruined just like the optima batteries now. The single wire from the alternator runs to the battery prong of the VR. Correct? My suspicion is that the seller I got the alternator from lied about it being positive ground. Is there an easy way to test without running the vehicle?