Fargone Posted July 4, 2016 Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 I'm having trouble getting the coolant tube out of the block. So far I've tried all the obvious things like vice grips and force, heated up with torch (twice), penetrating oil (soaked repeatedly for 2 days), Dexron III (immersed 3 days), CLR (24 hours so far) and high pressure water. Oh and before I started the machine shop tanked the block for 24 hours as well. I'm about to give up on this block..... On my other two engines the thing just slipped out no drama at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted July 4, 2016 Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 steel rod make a hook on 1 end, end use a slide hammer to knock it out. Is it a brass tube, which engine is this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desotodav Posted July 4, 2016 Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 You are doing all the right things. Best to do a forum search on 'water distribution tube' for more information as we have discussed this problem on numerous occasions. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted July 4, 2016 Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 (edited) There may be some information in the Technical Archives...there is a link on post #1 of the Water Distribution R&R thread that should point to the same address that can be found if you click on the Resources drop down menu at the top of the page, under Tech Tips Edited July 5, 2016 by JBNeal 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 And 48dodger has a youtube vid of the process. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Oil Soup Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 a piece of 1/2" x 1/8" flat stock 36" long with a hook ground in the end to engage the slots in the WDT and slide hammer will do it. It just needs to be budged loose. Easy, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_shel_ny Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 (edited) If a search has not shown this, after the hooking has failed to persuade it to come out for some, they have gone to thin flat stock down the side between the block, and the tube. Puts some crush on it to break loose. Some have had to get theirs out in pieces. Edited July 6, 2016 by shel_ny 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Collapsing the tube is an interesting idea, I suppose the manifold studs could be removed for punch access to jar the tube lose every few inches along its length... then hook the tube to pull out some, then drive it back in, so as to work the tube back and forth to allow debris to fall away in the water jacket rather than form a wedge that holds the tube in place. I have not seen a tube corroded so much that it would need this extra effort, but working bolts, studs, sheaves and shafts loose with this back and forth method has worked many times, with the aid of lots of MMO and plenty of patience Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fargone Posted July 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 steel rod make a hook on 1 end, end use a slide hammer to knock it out. Is it a brass tube, which engine is this? It looks like brass and I'll try the steel rod / hook approach. This thing seems really rusted in though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fargone Posted July 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 (edited) If a search has not shown this, after the hooking has failed to persuade it to come out for some, they have gone to thin flat stock down the side between the block, and the tube. Puts some crush on it to break loose. Some have had to get theirs out in pieces. I wish I had some super strong 36" long shim stock I could hammer in along the sides. Or even really long air chisels to vibrate it loose. I'm off to the tool stores to see what I can find. Edited July 5, 2016 by Fargone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fargone Posted July 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Collapsing the tube is an interesting idea, I suppose the manifold studs could be removed for punch access to jar the tube lose every few inches along its length... then hook the tube to pull out some, then drive it back in, so as to work the tube back and forth to allow debris to fall away in the water jacket rather than form a wedge that holds the tube in place. I have not seen a tube corroded so much that it would need this extra effort, but working bolts, studs, sheaves and shafts loose with this back and forth method has worked many times, with the aid of lots of MMO and plenty of patience I'll try the manifold studs approach as well, maybe a thin punch will get the thing loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 (edited) I would not in any manner suggest use of the air hammer....IF nothing else is at hand a section of small re-bar can be bought at your local hardware store of sufficient length and the end ground to a bevel to promote collapsing of the tube into itself. it can also be bent and a hook ground it for snatching it out with an improvised slide hammer weight and welded washer on the back side Edited July 5, 2016 by Plymouthy Adams 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John-T-53 Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Soak the block in a product like Evapo-Rust or equivalent....This might help free it up. Let the chemicals do the work. There are some yoo-tube vids of people cleaning blocks this way which appear to make them come out like new; I'd be tempted to try this on my next motor build to save lots of time over using the wire wheel on a drill approach. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 If it's just rust, you can actually mix 1 part molasses to 8 parts water and soak and it will dissolve rust, but it's not a super quick process...likely take about a week. My buddy that build hot rods does this with all his old A and T parts that he can fit in his container...amazing how they come out. Beyond that, you need something chemical to dissolve the rust and build-up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desotodav Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 I made up a removal tool (after seeing how Paul removed his) and my WDT came in out in pieces. Seems to be about the only way to remove those old steel WDT's. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 the molasses trick is an old true method..IF...you wish to have a faux parkerized look to the finished hardware.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted July 6, 2016 Report Share Posted July 6, 2016 Wonder what is the obsession with removing the tubes? As long as the tube is not clogged, and still has the spots in the top of it, why not leave it alone? Its primary purpose is to direct coolant up through the slots to the valve seat area. If there is no indication of seat or valve failure in a given block, if the tube is there, why not leave it be, seems to me without evidence of valve seat damage its still doing its job. Especially brass ones. They are not going to structurally fail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 6, 2016 Report Share Posted July 6, 2016 I would guess the big interest in in cleaning all the gunk form the block that they can, ensuring the fit and integrity of the metal tube itself and peace of mind knowing a new one has been installed and will last beyond your years here on earth. I have seen many good components taken apart for cleaning and paint only to never go back together again due to ham fisted techniques, improper tools and lack of general knowledge and with a "book be damned" attitude..too many self claimed engineers...coupled with the trend that a restoration means taking every nut and bolt off and polish or paint it..read a magazine of this process...buy your replacement parts from the vendors found in said magazine after destroying them following the magazine advice....got to love it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobacuda Posted July 6, 2016 Report Share Posted July 6, 2016 About a year ago I posted how I got the really stuck water distribution tube out of my truck's engine. Posted 19 June 2015 - 07:55 AM I went through the same shades of hell when I pulled the water distribution tube from my truck's block. After trying pretty much everything you have, I had 1/4 of the tube out and the rest still installed. I was able to hook a stiff wire way to the back of the tube's remains, but could not pull it like the shop manual says. Finally, I took a piece of flat metal roughly 3/4" wide and 1/8" thick, rounded the end off, then sharpened one side of the end down to the other side - basically made it a long wedge. I was able to slide that between the side of the tube on the cylinder side (flat side to the cylinders). I was able to tap that in and basically crush the tube off of the cylinders. I would tap it in a short distance, try pulling, then tap it in some more. Finally, it broke loose and came out. Very frustrating and I had reached the point that I was either going to fix it or really break it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fargone Posted July 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2016 You are doing all the right things. Best to do a forum search on 'water distribution tube' for more information as we have discussed this problem on numerous occasions. Sorry guys I didn't know the right term for the "thing", the threads were a great source of information. I was about to give up and find another engine, but this is the original engine block from my truck so I'm trying to use it. So far I've had no luck with the slide hammer, but I'm off to bolt house to get so stuff and try again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fargone Posted July 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2016 I made up a removal tool (after seeing how Paul removed his) and my WDT came in out in pieces. Seems to be about the only way to remove those old steel WDT's. That thing is beautiful, I teared up when I saw it. I'm so building one right friggin now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution Fargone Posted July 6, 2016 Author Solution Report Share Posted July 6, 2016 About a year ago I posted how I got the really stuck water distribution tube out of my truck's engine. Posted 19 June 2015 - 07:55 AM I went through the same shades of hell when I pulled the water distribution tube from my truck's block. After trying pretty much everything you have, I had 1/4 of the tube out and the rest still installed. I was able to hook a stiff wire way to the back of the tube's remains, but could not pull it like the shop manual says. Finally, I took a piece of flat metal roughly 3/4" wide and 1/8" thick, rounded the end off, then sharpened one side of the end down to the other side - basically made it a long wedge. I was able to slide that between the side of the tube on the cylinder side (flat side to the cylinders). I was able to tap that in and basically crush the tube off of the cylinders. I would tap it in a short distance, try pulling, then tap it in some more. Finally, it broke loose and came out. Very frustrating and I had reached the point that I was either going to fix it or really break it. Your approach worked for me as well! I got the damn thing out. Thanks 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted July 7, 2016 Report Share Posted July 7, 2016 Wonder what is the obsession with removing the tubes? As long as the tube is not clogged, and still has the spots in the top of it, why not leave it alone? Its primary purpose is to direct coolant up through the slots to the valve seat area. If there is no indication of seat or valve failure in a given block, if the tube is there, why not leave it be, seems to me without evidence of valve seat damage its still doing its job. Especially brass ones. They are not going to structurally fail. Well the steel one that was in mine looked Ok from the water pump end ...... and it was for the first 3" or 4" It came out in about 15 pieces.....plus some remnants that fell down into the water jackets and had to be fished out after I removed the head. The thing is that when you don't know anything about the condition or history of what you have it is best to go after it. Even when it is a total PITA. I had people here give me advice to leave it be. Real glad I didn't listen to that advice. Would have never run right the way it was. To everyone that has gone through this ordeal I tip my hat. Those that have not ...... have had it way too easy. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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