52 b-3-d starting issues

[Plymouthy Adams]

you first mention fuel issues about 6  weeks ago.....now I am the last one to comment on use of time etc as I have a million other things to do about the house also.  But the many quick and easy test suggested here should have you in the repair phase and still not just thinking what it could be.  Suggest you just drop the tank for a good inspection and cleaning of the outlet, possible removal of a plugged up internal filter and once you clear this section and have good flow, install a fuel filter near the tank....this will protect your downstream unit and the pump itself.  Some times the hardest part of a job is just committing yourself to the task.

Edited July 30, 2016 by Plymouthy Adams

[Brent B3B]

I put my finger over the inlet of the pump and felt the suction so this would imply that the pump is working correct? but I suppose it may not be strong enough? I guess I'll have to try to get a pressure tester and see what it does. But I think I'm the meantime I'll try hooking it back up and see if it spits out fuel now with the lines all blown out

Jp, when you felt the suction was the pump still off the truck? I recently acquired a b4d and I was getting no fuel, hooked up to a gas can, still nothin.... Took off the pump and one bolt felt weird (loose) off the truck the pump also has suction. I think my issue is the contact of the pump to the cam. But that is my situation (may or may not be relevant)

[Jeff Balazs]

If you have an old school radiator shop in your area I would call them and ask them if the repair and reline gas tanks.

I had mine done locally for $200 and IMO it was some of the best money I spent on my truck.

Just a suggestion...

Jeff

[Jerry Roberts]

An old choke cable in an electric drill can be used as an auger to clean the outlet on the gas tank . It is still a good idea to look inside the tank and see whats up . 

[jpartington]

Brent, fuel pump was on truck when I felt the suction.

So my pump is working as it should. I have emptied gas and dropped tank now. Pickup line looks pretty good, not clogged at all that I can see, also no internal filter. And no crud in the bottom of the tank. The inside of the tank actually looks pretty good. While I have the tank out I figured I would check out the sending unit, since the fuel gauge does not work. I pulled the sending unit out check to see if the float still floats. Which it does. I hooked up a meter to it and was not able to get a reading from it. I will try again tonight maybe. Not sure if I was not getting a good ground or not. Otherwise I will be looking for a new unit.

Edited August 11, 2016 by jpartington

[jpartington]

I suppose this is probably the problem. I guess I will try to fix it otherwise buy a new one.

[JBNeal]

And that is the problem with the reproductions that Robert's sells: they fail just like the original units. However, the plated flange can be reused on a Tanks Inc. unit...then ya have a more robust sending unit mounted with the original style flange...WINNING

[jpartington]

What do you mean by plated flange? Also is anyone familiar with the unit dcm offers?

[JBNeal]

The circular flat plate that is held in place by the fuel tank lock ring is zinc plated on the reproduction unit; original flanges were not plated and can get very rusty.  The rusty flange/lock ring combination helps to lead to ground continuity issues and the fuel gauge appears to not be working as there is either a null reading or the needle bounces all over the place while the vehicle is in rambling down the highway.  Either way, a separate ground stud helps to avoid this issue.

 

The Tanks Inc. unit looks very similar to the unit used in Tod Fitch's conversion...I purchased a few several years ago and will be doing the conversion soon.  The DCM unit appears to differ from the Tanks Inc. unit by using a different style float, spherical versus hyperrectangular 

Edited August 13, 2016 by JBNeal

[Brent B3B]

Is the truck running yet or have we just switched to the sending unit?

Just trying to follow along

[jpartington]

Ok thanks for the information I will have to make a decision so I can get that tank back in. No truck is still not running Brent, yes getting a little off topic now but I need the tank back in to get the truck running so I gotta finish tank and get it back in. I guess maybe I should make a build thread so I can post all things about my rig

[Brent B3B]

Oh good, just want to make sure I didn't miss something, I am in the same position with my b4d..... far be it for me to be the OT police just trying to learn.

One thing I am noticing is my pump has suction off the truck and that little "pee" hole on the outside left is pushin air out. Again, May or may not be revalant

[JBNeal]

just a thought:  ya might could use this as your build thread and post a link to major topics in the Build Thread List ...maybe others will follow suit

[jpartington]

Brent, I believe the hole you are referring to is just the pump breather hole. Feeling air here is normal, if you have gas or oil leaks from here then you have issues.

[Brent B3B]

That sounds right, I think I remember hearing that in the past. Changed mine out with one off another truck and got it started today. I'll quit bombarding your thread

Good luck!

[jpartington]

That's ok just happy to help out someone else with what little I know about these trucks so far lol just at the beginning of my journey

Edited August 14, 2016 by jpartington

[jpartington]

Rebuilt the carburetor tonight. Had a bad accelerator pump plunger. Accelerator pump now works, and I got to hear the truck run tonight. Going in the right direction. But still need to get the fuel to pump to the carb.

[jpartington]

Well, finished cleaning up the gas tank tonight and prepped it for paint. Filled it full of water and to my surprise, I found a couple of pinholes in it. Not a happy camper. How can I fix this? Or do I just need to bring it somewhere to get it repaired?

Edited August 19, 2016 by jpartington

[Jeff Balazs]

Suggest you call the local radiator shops. Some of them may be able to help you. My local shop cleaned repaired and coated mine for $200. Well worth it to have it almost new again.

 

Jeff

[jpartington]

There is a radiator shop within 15 mins of me. I called once and left a message and never got a returned call. I will try again today.

[greg g]

I have been known to fix pinholes using a sheet metal screw with a rubber/nylon washer and a goop of epoxy over the whole deal.  use a non ferrous wire brush to clean the area around the hole so the washer will compress against the tank, and the epoxy can seal, not any crud that may be there.

 

Yes it is cheesy but it extended the service life of my tank about 5 years

[Jeff Balazs]

I have been known to fix pinholes using a sheet metal screw with a rubber/nylon washer and a goop of epoxy over the whole deal.  use a non ferrous wire brush to clean the area around the hole so the washer will compress against the tank, and the epoxy can seal, not any crud that may be there.

 

Yes it is cheesy but it extended the service life of my tank about 5 years

I have done this too on a more modern vehicle and it lasted many years. But with the age of these tanks a clean internal coating is a prudent step to reduce potential fuel system issues.

Jeff

[jpartington]

I called the shop again yesterday still no answer. I guess I just keep trying

[ggdad1951]

I called the shop again yesterday still no answer. I guess I just keep trying

call TankRenu in Shokapee...they did mine...

[Reg Evans]

I called the shop again yesterday still no answer. I guess I just keep trying

 

How about a drive by.  Maybe they've closed up shop.