Dave72dt Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 Some of the local parts houses may be able to build the cables for you or provide the ends and the cable. If not, find a farm equipment dealer or heavy truck repair shop. They deal with the heavy cables you need on a regular basis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 I have not upgraded the cables yet I am planning to do it soon, just got very busy. I also am having a hard time finding some of the connectors to build my own cables. On a side note I have the ground of the battery grounded at the bottom starter bolt, would this be a problem? I will try to get those readings and repot back. Thanks for the replys The location for the ground connection is not how they did it at the factory but it should work. The correct location for the ground cable from the batteryis the transmission cover. On a vehicle this age threaded connections like this may be corroded or contaminated. It is important that all connections be clean and free of contaminates that could affect conductivity. The use of serrated washers on all electrical connections is a good idea. If you have not replaced your cables yet they could be badly corroded inside the jackets. Hope this helps, Jeff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 My starter rebuild guy is not much for talking, he's had his own business since the 60s and stays quite busy...he did offer one piece of advice once: on 6V systems, relocate the system ground to a starter mounting bolt, and he left it at that...while working on the Farmall 1206, I noticed that the ground strap on that big diesel was on one of the starter mounting bolts. The two 6V batteries straddle the starter, so it was a very efficient and powerful setup. The original location of the B-series ground cable on the transmission case was done as a cost savings apparently, as corrosion at the threads of each connection would drive up impedance across the starter. With a longer ground cable plus the starter bolt mounting location, starter performance should improve over the stock setup over time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpartington Posted March 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 Perfect thank you for the advice. I did order my news cables today so they should be here soon. I also was able to get the truck started tonight with a bigger charger. Once truck was running, I let it run for awhile trying to let it charge. The generater is brand new, so I could see the ammeter go up when I pushed the gas pedal. But as soon as I shut the truck off and try to start it again, the battery was completely dead. Does this imply that my generater is not charging the battery. Or the battery is just so far gone that it is not charging off the generater? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted March 22, 2016 Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 *Most of the newer chargers will not charge a battery that has gone completely dead. They need a bit of feedback to detect positive and negative or they will never charge the battery regardless of how long you leave the charger on. Most testers don't do 6 volt batteries either. Five or ten minutes of running is not going to be enough time to charge a dead battery for restarting. The starter will pull way more out than you've put in. The starter can pull over 200 amps, your generator is putting in about 30 to 35 and your small cables aren't helping out. You did order the 0 or 00 size cables, right? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted March 22, 2016 Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 I'd say cables won't help your issue...take your battery back, if it's supposed to be new and won't hold a charge, it's NG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpartington Posted March 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 I will also be exchanging the battery just have not had time yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBF Posted March 23, 2016 Report Share Posted March 23, 2016 When trying to start it, are any cables or connectors getting warm or hot? Have you taken the dust band off the starter and looked at the brushes or commutators? Removing the starter and doing a cleaning, brush, spring, and bushing replacement (as long as your cables, connectors, and battery are good) is a good way to learn what is going on. Electric motors don't like low voltage-so if your battery or cables are not doing their jobs, the starter won't be able to do its job either. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpartington Posted March 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 Cables should be here today I think. After I get them built and installed I will get the battery replaced and see if all is good. If not then I will look into the starter. Just have to make it through Easter then I'll start working on it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpartington Posted April 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2016 Another question. I have the battery wired for positive ground, per the wiring diagram. But should it actually be negative ground? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted April 8, 2016 Report Share Posted April 8, 2016 Positive ground is factory correct. However a prior owner may have changed this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpartington Posted April 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2016 What would be required to change it? How would I know if I should have positive or negative ground Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted April 8, 2016 Report Share Posted April 8, 2016 You should start to check the wiring at the coil and the generator &VR (or alternator) to verify which way your trucks is set up. If it follows the original diagram it is positive ground and if these have been reversed it has most likely been changed over to negative ground. Either way works.......no real benefit to changing it. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpartington Posted April 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2016 I have rewired the whole truck to match the factory wiring diagram. So that must mean it should be positive ground Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpartington Posted May 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2016 I had to drop a little gas in the carb to get the truck started the other day and noticed that some gas leaked out of the carb when I put gas in. I would like to do a carb rebuild but am not sure which kit to buy. I found a carter carb rebuild kit and a stromberg rebuild how do I know which to buy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 15, 2016 Report Share Posted May 15, 2016 pouring gas on top of a closed throttle plate will almost always lead to some seeping along the shaft/body holes.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_shel_ny Posted May 15, 2016 Report Share Posted May 15, 2016 I had to drop a little gas in the carb to get the truck started the other day and noticed that some gas leaked out of the carb when I put gas in. I would like to do a carb rebuild but am not sure which kit to buy. I found a carter carb rebuild kit and a stromberg rebuild how do I know which to buy? Look at your carb to see what kind you have. Carter, or Stromberg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpartington Posted May 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2016 Ok I guess that's the obvious answer I didn't know if it would say it on there or not I've been away from the truck all day so just figured I would ask Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpartington Posted June 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 So I replaced my battery cables with some bigger ones now, and had time to exchange the battery. Now the starter turns over perfectly and the battery holds a charge. But now new issue. They only way I can get it to start now is by putting gas in the carb. After it starts it stays running but if I shut it off it will not start on its own. I pulled the fuel line off the carb and had my wife hit the starter. No gas shot out of the line. When I put my finger over the gas line and she hit the starter again it built a little pressure, I pulled my finger off and a little gas shot out. Does the fuel system has to be sealed to get gas to come out of the line? Or is this a sign that there is something wrong with my fuel pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 Sounds like you have an issue with your fuel pump. If the pump is old it may not like modern ethanol fuels. Or you have a bad like feeding the pump and it sucks air and can't pump properly. Merle 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 and to add to Merle..you could have a restricted tank outlet...have you investigated the internal condition of the tank..back blown the fuel line to clear obstruction and see if you get flow even if temporary... the fuel system is outlined pretty well in the manual as are suggested areas of concern based on test results and how to test.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpartington Posted June 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 I have not investigated anymore then what I stated above. Just figured I would come here because everyone also has such good suggestions. Thanks for the replies I will try to dig into it some more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 got to give you credit for your honesty...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted June 23, 2016 Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 You can do a very simple test. Disconnect the fuel line from the carb and direct it into a container. Then have a helper turn the engine over with the ignition off. You should get a pretty good stream of fuel into the container if the fuel pump is working and the line to it is clear. If you do get fuel then most likely the problem is in the carb..........no fuel and you know where to concentrate your efforts. Hth. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpartington Posted June 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 As posted above no fuel came out with the open ended line, and when I plugged it and cranked then unplugged it a little gas squirt out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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