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Posted

Anyone use the tanksinc replacement tank they have  listed for the 39 t0 47 dodge in  a 1952 b3b. They say the can be used with some modes, but do not described what the modes are.

 

thanks Joe.

Posted

Thanks for the link.Does any one have picture of the bracket they made for this modification, or picture of the installation?

Posted

Might want to contact NPENCE......it was his mod and I don't think he posted a picture.

 

 

48D

Posted

I used their tank in a 1948  the tank was just about 1 inch short of stock brackets so I just had add a thick flat plate to span the space, plate had holes drilled for stock bracket and tank approx. 1 inch apart with grade 8 bolts.  the only other modification was the tank did not have the hump on the top hence  when mounted it was not as close the  hole under the cab  which  made the angle of the filler hose different, so the hole had to be widened a little so the two would mount together.   I am very happy with their tank and service the give.

  • Like 1
Posted

I used their tank in a 1948  the tank was just about 1 inch short of stock brackets so I just had add a thick flat plate to span the space, plate had holes drilled for stock bracket and tank approx. 1 inch apart with grade 8 bolts.  the only other modification was the tank did not have the hump on the top hence  when mounted it was not as close the  hole under the cab  which  made the angle of the filler hose different, so the hole had to be widened a little so the two would mount together.   I am very happy with their tank and service the give.

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  • Like 1
Posted

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Here is how I mounted the tanksinc gas tank in 1952 B3B. Front is mounted with  2inch long3/8 inch bolts screwed up through supplied tank attached nuts and placed another nut and washers through the truck frame. Back mount was made 1/4 inch plate 9 inches by 3 3/4 inches with holes drilled to match tank and original tank mount bracket hole alignment using original bolts with springs and 2 inch 3/8 bolts on supplied tank attached nuts. Floor was notched to allow the use of the original filler pipe and rubber coupling. I use a JC Whitney 5 bolt sending unit with  correct ohms for Chryslers products that bolted right to the tank sending holes. I am using 6 volt regulator for fuel gauge as I switched to a 12 volt generator. Using 3/8 to 5/16 adapter for fuel pick line. 

 

Hopes this helps others when replacing those old rusty tanks.

 

Joe

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  • Like 1
Posted

Looks good, but I don't believe the springs should be supporting the weight of the tank and fuel. I would rather see your adapter plate resting on top of the support bracket with the spring loaded bolts just holding it in place, and allowing room to flex.

 

Merle

  • Like 2
Posted

The tanks originally had the springs on the bottom no? I'm sure mine did, it's what gave me room the cut one off that was stripped on the head.

Posted

Yes, the bolts and springs should be sticking down, like he has them. But the weight of the tank should be supported by the bracket that is attached to his cross member, not the springs. On my truck the rear support bracket comes off the side frame rail. Must be a 1/2 ton vrs. 3/4 ton thing.

  • Like 1
Posted

The springs need to have room left to compress.

 

In the comfiguration they are now, the spring is fully compressed to hold up the tank and braket.

 

That negates their function. 

 

Otherwise the tank acts as a crossmember, trying to hold the frame straight, and as you might suspect, tanks make terrible crossmembers. ^_^

 

48D

Posted

The spring configuration is as it was with original tank, attached under tank. The springs are compressed more with addition of the 1/4 inch plate. But they due still have some compression. Possibly some longer bolts would allow more flexibility with less spring compression.

Joe

Posted (edited)

The gas tank does not directly set down on the two springs- it sits on top of the frame support mounting bracket.

 

The two springs and bolts are assembled upward from underneath the support bracket into the gas tank mounting nuts.

 

This lets the gas tank move independently of the frame so as to not crack at the seams from the trucks flexible frame twist and movement.

 

 As already mentioned. It's the real truth!

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Edited by Dodgeb4ya
  • Like 2
Posted

plus, if for some reason, the bolts break/nuts fall off, the tank won't fall to the ground.

Posted

LOL :lol:  I GET IT! this is so embarrassing! i can't stop laughing at myself!

i seriously for the life of me couldn't see the difference. all it looks like is the plate needs to go inside the bracket.

(LIGHTBULB!)  i never been accused of being the quickest.........

 

 

what a great day!

Posted

I should look at mine some day....then again the trucks for sale...best not to look at any more make work projects! LOL

I noticed it was for sale.

Heading to Regina this weekend, so was checking out Kijiji down there.

Posted

 As already mentioned. It's the real truth!

 

Yah...but you said it better...and had picture!  ^_^  

 

48D

Posted

Ya, decided I want to build my car up and go 383 fuel injected and have a good long trip driver. I love the truck, but I wouldn't get in it and drive across Canada. I think flatheads are great, but at today's highway speeds and the group I ride with, it just can't take the beating. Not to mention the car needs a lot of $$ for my ideas

  • 6 years later...

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