Rebuilding a P10 front end

[Cpt.Fred]

I made my move on the darn backing plate dust seals today.

 

my friend and club "president" of Misanthropes C.C. had all the things i needed

lying around in his shop. he found a nice thick piece of felt that i could use.

 

welcome to uncle fred's tinker time...

 

drilled out the rivets:

 

 

parts seperated:

 

 

genius circle cutting tool:

 

 

shaping the new felt rings:

 

Edited April 26, 2015 by Cpt.Fred

[Cpt.Fred]

new rings fit nice and snug:

 

 

punched in the new screw holes:

 

i plan to use these tiny screws instead of rivets:

 

 

i made the middle hole a little smaller, since i didn't have the hub and drum assembly with me

when i went to my friend's shop, turns out maybe a little too small... we'll see...

 

Edited April 26, 2015 by Cpt.Fred

[Don Coatney]

I think you need to sand and re-finish your bench top.

[Cpt.Fred]

first, the pics were taken at my buddy's shop, and second...rather will the sun rise in the west!

that applies to both our benches.

Edited April 26, 2015 by Cpt.Fred

[Cpt.Fred]

cleaned up the backing plates and braces for some special paint treatment.

 

look at the nice work bench.   need a new rubber mallet, though...

 

 

now i'm going to have a beer, sit around in the lonely shop and look at my treasures.

here's a soundtrack.

 

 

have a nice sunday evening everyone!

[Andydodge]

Fred, you also need a new beer.........that ones empty..........forgot to check the castle nuts.......will do tonight and get back.......andyd

[Niel Hoback]

That's beautiful!  Just beautiful.  If I could do that, nothing else would ever get done.  Beautiful.  Go check out his other videos at Youtube.  Wonderful.  Thank you Cpt. Fred for introducing us to such talent. 

[1952B3b23]

Looking good Fred!

[Cpt.Fred]

a little black paint to match the other parts.

 

 

i hope i get them assembled by tomorrow evening to see how much of the felt will have to go.

guess i should put a little oil on the felt rings when i put them in, right?

[TodFitch]

. . . guess i should put a little oil on the felt rings when i put them in, right?

I did not bother with that. Seems like they will keep out dust without oil and are soft enough that I wasn't too worried about them wearing grooves in the hub metal.

[Cpt.Fred]

thanks, Tod, i'll see how it goes.

i think a little bit of thin oil might be helpful, just a tad...

 

sooo, i put the plates on and tried the hubs.

 

 

as i thought, the felt was too thick in the first try,

so i had to do it all again. not the first time this happens...

 

now it's all fine and bolted in place.

a drop of locktite, just in case, and everything fits like a glove.

finally...

 

Edited May 8, 2015 by Cpt.Fred

[Niel Hoback]

Walter P. would be proud.

[Andydodge]

Shiney paint................SHOW CAR..........SHOW CAR..........lol.............seriously tho' you do a good job........and as Neil says, Walter would be proud.........regards, andyd

[Cpt.Fred]

thank you guys...

but i'm pretty sure ol' Walter would have insisted on Phillips screws for a '40 model Plymouth...

 

the paint isn't shiny at all. it's just new.

when i coated it all with Owatrol and drove a few miles i'll post a few pics,

just to quiet down those "show car" rumours here, hehehe.

Edited April 30, 2015 by Cpt.Fred

[Cpt.Fred]

friend of mine wants to do this whole procedure to a 52 dodge coupe...

if anyone here has info on measurements and maybe explosive drawings,

like excerpts from the manual for that model, it would be great if you could send them to me as pm...

thanks in advance!

 

hope to go on with assembly tomorrow.

[greg g]

I believe they are similar to the  P 15. If so the upper inner A arm should be 7 inches mounted, measured from outside to outside.  Torque on the bolt should be 120 to 140 # ft. The outer pin mount 3 and 1/8 inches, out side to outside.  Torque to 90/110 # ft.  The lower inner is 11 and 9/16 on the inner outside to outside, torque to 165 # ft. the lower outer  3 and 1/8 torque to 90 to 110 # ft. On the lower one there is a measurement for centering the knuckle within the assembly.  At the outside if the pin the distance from the forward outside to the king pin carrier is 15/16 ths of an inch.  There is a dimension for the inside which as measured from a line through the center of the front inner mounting bolts to where it meets the inside of the front A Arm casting is 7/16ths.  The distance from the outer lower A arm Casting to the front inside mounting bolt center lines is 2 and 5/32nds.   The measurements are shown with the drawing as viewed from the top, front of the car up for the right side.  If you can't make any sense of this I will attempt to post a picture.  But I am currently struggling with getting stuff from my camera to my computer. 

[Cpt.Fred]

thanks, Greg. i passed your info, but i haven't heard any news so far.

 

i put the steering arms back in place to get the tie rod ends pressed out. stupid me...

this is important: if i ever have to do something like this again, they'll come off first thing

before i try anthing else. you don't get them off when they're not attached.

 

 

 

next thing will be more cleaning and some measuring and then four new tie rod ends.

Edited May 8, 2015 by Cpt.Fred

[Andydodge]

Fred, haven't had any joy re the castle nuts......am not happy, lol........btw you refer to the tie rod ends as "ball joints"........be careful there as most US places would refer to these as "tie rod ends" with "ball joints" being those things that live at the outer or tyre end of upper & lower A arms from the late 50's onwards, mopar from 1957 actually........the use of "ball joints" effectively replaced the use of both kingpins and the upper/lower outer pins and bushes.......not trying to be a pedant here but trying to help...........lol.........o/k will go back in my corner..........andyd

[Cpt.Fred]

hey Andy, no problem, you're right. sometimes my english leaves me and i mix up terms.

 

i edited the post, since i want this to be a good and helpful tech thread with proper language -

accompanied by a well proportioned side dish of nonsense and clownery of course.

 

here's what i got this morning:

 

 

boy, these are A LOT stiffer than my oil shocks... we'll see how it goes.

unfortunately the container carrying the truck shock mounts got busted in the harbour

on arrival for some reason and now i'll have to wait untill they finished x-raying it...

[Cpt.Fred]

slow progress here...

i measured the tie rods and wrote everything down, then took them apart for cleaning.

 

 

they look much better now...

 

got the brake shoes back from relining and the new custom made flexible steel hoses arrived.

i sent them the old ones so they new exactly what they were dealing with, but somehow they messed up.

look at this:

 

 

the new connectors are much longer than the old ones, so the flexible part is now too short.

i certainly will not ride them like this, so i called the shop and sent them back.

i hope the new ones will be ready soon,

can't take all the waiting any longer...

the rest looks fine, i guess. getting closer one tiny step after another.

 

[Dave72dt]

Have you given any thoughts to relocating the upper shock mount to a frame mount? 

[Cpt.Fred]

indeed, as was discussed earlier

 

[Young Ed]

indeed, as was discussed earlier

 

 

They made it! How long did it take for those things to finally get over to you? Seems like it was last year I sent them....

[Cpt.Fred]

hahaha, yeah, i got them this morning, finally!

seems like forever, doesn't it... but i think it was actually in february?

[deathbound]

The shock mounts are already the right color, but the shocks will stick out like a sore thumb.