4852dodge Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 Try Rusteoleum Rusty metal primer. Comes in spray, quart and gallon. Old school oil base paint and really seals the surface. Use clear coat to seal the area you want to retain the patina. Seals the surface and cleanable. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted September 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 I wasn't going to post today's work, but I'm glad I did. Great help guys, thank you. Ace Hardware has a product called "Prime and Paint". It's the same stuff as Por 15 only a lot less expensive. I was looking at that today. Any thoughts on that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 POR 15 rust coating does not adhere to slick metal. It is designed to adhere to and seal rusty metal after you knock the loose rust off. Like any coating, it's important to follow the directions for application. Original POR 15 is not UV resistant. I've used the black stuff once on a chassis and didn't like the results. I've used the gray stuff once on the inside of doors. Time will tell although the doors are no longer exposed to moisture as they were in the past. If what you're looking at is anything like the original POR 15, once the can is opened it tends to start setting up. I've been using Rusty Metal Primer the last couple of years. Once dried, it's sandable and can be blocked like a regular primer and a high build primer applied for finish blocking and paint or undercoating, sound deadener, etc can be applied over it as well. I did some roof bows with it last year, quick sand and spray bombed, no rust showing through on them yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBF Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 I've used Rustoleum's rust metal primer for quite awhile now and it is much tougher than regular automotive primer. It is designed to use on porous surfaces and does an excellent job of sealing. It takes a topcoat well. Another alternative is True Value's X-Rust brushable paints. They're oil based as well and have excellent properties to protect against rust. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 POR15! that'll stop the rust! The comment about the bubble wrap caught my eye...one reason I just don't think it's a good idea, but that's just me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted September 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 I pasted all the suggestions to a page then sat and reread them. Which to do cause all work. So I went shopping and bought a can of 3M Underseal / Undercoating / Paintable ' #.08882. I am very pleased with the result. There were areas I my DA could not reach so I recalled that acetone removes oxidized paint on old cars, so maybe soot also. Eureka, it does. So I did an experiment on the bottom corner of the cab. I put a piece of tape so I would have a clean line of distincition, then I cleaned below that line with acetate and a 3M scrub brush, and then I washed it all off. When I was done washing, my wash cloth did not pick up any color from the previous soot area nor the old paint area. Interesting. The cleaning line is very evident after the tape is removed. This reinforces a previous theory! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 theory...hard work will prevail over wishful thinking.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 (edited) Got some videos or tutorials to support your "Theory", Tim? DJ Edited September 3, 2014 by DJ194950 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 (edited) will cuts and bruises attest to my endeavors.. I hope I do not have any days like today anytime soon....I have seen better days..they have been less troublesome and cost me less money and allowed for an even blood pressure level throughout the course of the day.. Edited September 3, 2014 by Plymouthy Adams 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted September 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 No pain no gain, nor sympathy, so put on your Dillo helmet and get busy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 No pain no gain, nor sympathy, so put on your Dillo helmet and get busy. PP..I get more done on accident that you can set out to do on purpose....lol....BAZINGA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted September 4, 2014 Report Share Posted September 4, 2014 PP, hope we get to call you something else is the near future! You do have a big job ahead of you still. A quick repair appears to not in your future after seeing your truck. BUT doable! A work of caution about using the spray can undercoating. Sand it and acetone clean it before using it. Spray multiple thin coats and allow to dry between coats, instead of a multiple coats to achieve in in one afternoon. Experience! Took a week for my multiple coats to fully harden. Way to many in a short time. MY BAD! Tim, it comes in Cheap (thrifty) spray cans! PP's favorite. Can you get a buzz from propane propellants?? Just kill brain cells? DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted September 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2014 DJ, if the bed coating was to be used under a fender or in the bed where the wear and tare is aggressive, the thin multipfle coats would be required. I sanded the back wall and roof, wiped it clean, then gave it a full rub with acetone before I sprayed the coating on. I could add more coats but the surface will be behind insulation, fully protected so I conclude the coating which is rubberized will be a very capable sealer. Whatever, it's done now and will have to do. However, thanks for the interest and informationn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted September 4, 2014 Report Share Posted September 4, 2014 I was putting on floors with many replacement panels welded in. Needs an heavy coat in that condition in My opinion, but you are doing back side inside of cab according to your pics. May not apply here. Just a heads up! For insulation, please use something besides plastic bubble wrap. When burns- quickly, a poison gas is given off! Hope you never have any experience with that bad luck again! DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted September 4, 2014 Report Share Posted September 4, 2014 You don't need the paintable undercoating if your going to cover it up. Evercoat makes an undercoating that's less expensive and will work as well for your application and there are other brands out there as well that wont cost as much. If you want to use a 3m product , they also make a non paintable that's a bit less expensive. Save a few bucks where you can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted September 5, 2014 Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 Paul; I can't really see a problem using the aerosol product you used as a sealer. I wouldn't count on it doing much as sound deadener though. Even the heavy material I brushed on in several coats probably only accounts for 5% to 10% of the sound insulation I got in my cab. And I even laminated several rubber sound deadening strips into this material. It did help with reducing the tinny sound when we did the hand slap test on different areas of the cab but even all this was nothing in comparison to adding the Hushmat. I figure that stuff is responsible for at least 80% of the noise reduction I got. Upholstery and doubled layers of foiled bubblewrap got the remainder. Don't count on the bubblewrap for sound insulation as it is really there to deal with thermal insulation. You can tell a lot about how effective what you are doing is going to be by slapping your hand against the cab in several areas. When the sheet metal sound changes to something similar to slapping your hand against a slab of concrete you can be sure you will have a quiet ride. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted September 5, 2014 Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 sound attenuation isn't always about thickness, a lot depends on the material's mechanical properties. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 5, 2014 Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 ggdad1951, on 05 Sept 2014 - 10:50 AM, said:sound attenuation isn't always about thickness, a lot depends on the material's mechanical properties. yessir..duct tape is not very thick and it will work wonders when placed over certain mouths... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted September 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 To lessen the sounds in an old vehicle, duct tape works best on the ears not the mouth! LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted September 5, 2014 Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 I believe Tim was refering to the sounds that may emanate from the passenger seat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted September 5, 2014 Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 I believe Tim was refering to the sounds that may emanate from the passenger seat. Or Reedley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 5, 2014 Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 Merle Coggins, on 05 Sept 2014 - 3:38 PM, said:I believe Tim was refering to the sounds that may emanate from the passenger seat. Bazinga....I am able to tolerate myself, one of the few people in the world that probably can put up with me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted September 5, 2014 Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 Sally has my condolences. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 5, 2014 Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 mine also...!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted September 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 (edited) If Tim has a seat that talks, it must be an echo. Considering that, he has the tape on the correct body part. After considering all my exterior options I have this product called Klean-Strip Phosphoric Prep and Etch. I used it on my hood in March, (see pic). It has been out in the weather since then. There is no sign of new rust where I used this product and then clear coated. Clear coat is paint without color pigment so and this product cuts rust and etchs for painting. Following their directions ( I can read ) I prep sanded till the surface was smooth, then I applied the Prep and Etch and left it for 18 hours (overnight) then washed it, did a light sand with 660 grit and gave it two coats of clear gloss. So now I have (a) a painted surface and (2) a creative look. In the future should I (heaven forbid) or someone want to do a color paint job I have not eliminated that for them and I have protected the metal. Later I will remove the dog house and do a complete clean and protection application when I can turn them to get to the back side. I would doubt not many have attempted to "restore" a vehicle fire damaged as this one is. Maybe I shouldn't have either but . . . just liked the truck, it is fun to drive. The hood after five months in the weather: note the center as opposed to the sides. The grill Progress 9/7/14 Edited September 6, 2014 by pflaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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