The Phoenix is awakening / B3B Rises from the Ashes

[HotRodTractor]

2 hours ago, pflaming said:

Update: Tuesday I had ny hearing aids adjusted and suddenly my engine is very noisy. A good friend, a  mechanic, listened to it and advised I check the valve clearances and put it on a lift, drop the pan and check the rods. He stated that A. developing problem below is not a difficult fix, if done in time.

 

im pressing on the Suburban so will park the truck til I can spend a  couple days on it.  I drive it constantly, my only complaint is gas mileage around town is horribly low. 

 

Turn your hearing aids down. Problem solved!

[pflaming]

And if the engine blows???? Won't mind not hearing it blow, but I'm not much for walking anymore. 

 

My mechanic, who has some age on him, said that "back when" if a rod babit was worn, they would wrap a strip of bacon around the shaft, reassemble and continue. The bacon would then lubricate the bushing. Anyone know anything about such

. 

Edited November 8, 2018 by pflaming

[Plymouthy Adams]

ruin and engine and get fried bacon for breakfast too boot......but something tells me that the bacon is going to smell a lot like that story...bacon has no resistance to wear...now if you had said wrapped with leather...yeah...a very short term fix...just enough to get it off the sales lot and offloaded to some poor sucker who just spent probably more money than he could spare at the time... think this spawned a movie title..."Death of a Salesman"  , filmed in Redding, California....

Edited November 8, 2018 by Plymouthy Adams

[Los_Control]

I know a guy that used a beer can to make a shim for a worn crank journal .... let me rephrase, had new bearings, but the old bearing wore the crank and now new bearing needed a shim.

 

Yeah we all know what it really needed.   Think long greasy haired biker with a ol rat harley that got ran out of California for impersonating/telling people, he was a Hells Angels.

The ol boy needed that truck to run now! 

 

Sure hope that truck got saved, was a nice rust free tri five with factory 2 speed automatic, only one I have seen.

[pflaming]

Update: I just bought a T 85 C borgwarner overdrive for $75.  I will put it in my truck.

From the net:  

 

Re: BW OD transmission. A T-85 C is a car trans. The R-11 unit there is a truck unit. The gears in the T-85C are higher and are best used with a 4:11 rear end. 

 

(The T-85 C with my 3:73 would put third up higher than now and 2nd as well. For the use it will get, that will be nice). 

[DJ194950]

3 hours ago, pflaming said:

Update: I just bought a T 85 C borgwarner overdrive for $75.  I will put it in my truck.

From the net:  

 

A internet search on the BW T-85C comes up as a Furd application transmission.

 

Worth something But will it fit your truck?? Input shaft size/length/clutch spline matchs-bolt mounting pattern??

 

Can you match sizes etc. to a trans you already have out in the garage??

 

Good luck,

 

DJ

[pflaming]

Yes, I have one to compare to this. At $75 I figure I can get that $$ back quite easily. Will report back. Per HAMB this is a very strong transmission and quite popular. 

[MBF]

I think that the T-5 conversion involves drilling and tapping the bell housing for the mounting bolts, machining the opening to accommodate the front of the transmission,  a different clutch disk, and finding a rear with parking brakes as you lose the rear mounted brake found on the original transmission.  I think the O/d may make the process worthwhile as far as roadability.

 

[pflaming]

MB, this is not a T5. And yes, to attach to the clutch housing requires a special plate between the housing and the T 85 C overdrive. Similar to the plate between the Cherokee MC and the frame on a B3B. My rear axle, a 98 Cherokee has its own EBrake. I've been working on this with a good machinist friend. 

Edited December 4, 2018 by pflaming

[pflaming]

Feb 2013, Sunday morning 2 am.  It burned to the ground. As you well know, my B3B was in there. Rumor persists that my granddaughters cat started the fire! 

[Radarsonwheels]

Oh no! Even six years ago that hurts to see

[pflaming]

This morning I purchased a set of four original DODGE dog dish hubcaps for $60. Now I can put those on. The fire melted on of the original caps and cracked one to irreparable condition, so I sold the two good caps. Patience pays off. 

[pflaming]

Went to look at a set of rims. Wrong bolt pattern, but the chrome luxury chrone rings were near prestine, so bought the four for $40.00. 

 

I also bought a five speed overdrive transmission (# 1352 192) for $125.00. That will be a great swap fit my B3B. 

 

Now to researh what to do with a T 85 C.  -  1A.   WG Division overdrive transmission I bought last fall or $25.00. Maybe put it in my "unrestored" slightly improved Suburban? 

 

 

[Dodgeb4ya]

 

Nothing but stock will bolt in easily in a Dodge truck... 

How bout a picture Paul?

Edited May 1, 2019 by Dodgeb4ya

[kencombs]

4 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

 

Nothing but stock will bolt in easily in a Dodge truck... 

How bout a picture Paul?

He posted a pic and I answered in the Tech section.

[pflaming]

Cat  “That was very close!”  

[DJ194950]

Paul- it looks like that cat would like to ask you- Hey Mac, got any spare matches??  ?

[Plymouthy Adams]

last look he had at that cat...…………………….

 

 

 

Note..no animal was harmed in making this pic....and you know it is just a joke...(personally I use a laser sight..lol)

Edited June 24, 2019 by Plymouthy Adams

[pflaming]

I did NOT start that fire!! 

[pflaming]

Knee suddenly needed a cortisone shot, got that today, so should be busier again. So for the past week mostly bench work. One sub project is to attach my S10 T5 to a spare bell housing, get an adapter plate and other items to be ready to install.
 

I’m finding that this is not rocket science. Just get the required parts, preassemble and be ready to swap. Three expensive items are the adaptor plate, the T5, and have the drive shaft shortened. I have a spare shaft, so that can also be done. I paid $150 for the T5, lucky buy, saves money to buy before the need.

 

as soon as my knee heals, will be back on the Suburban. 

 

[pflaming]

The S10 has the shifter at the front, mine not so, therefore maybe this. There are other adaptor as well. 

[pflaming]

My engine developed a knock. It wasn’t very loud when the engine was cold and driving slow around town. A week ago I put it on the road for a 40 mile round trip. The last 10 miles were very bad, I thought the engine might blow, but if I drove slowly in high not so bad, so drove on home.

 

I bought a stethoscope, a friend listened to it and believes the crankshaft is broken!  Responses welcomed!  

[JerseyHarold]

Might be a rod knock.  Try shorting-out each plug wire one-by-one.   If the knock goes away when one particular wire is shorted, you know that's the cylinder that's acting-up.  I'd also check for loose flywheel or clutch bolts.

[kencombs]

Broken crank would really be a rarity.  I've seen only a couple, other than real high performance stuff being abused,  in over 60 years of messin' with things mechanical.  Both were V8 Mopars from the early v8 era with no harmonic dampeners.  Both of those had a heavy solid sounding knock when idling.  The break was a diagonal fracture near the a main bearing. 

 

On a 6, never.  But as the earlier poster mentioned, a loose flywheel could certainly sound like that. 

 

A little more info about the noise might help.  does it do it under all load conditions, or only when decelerating, light load, heavy load and accelerating etc.  Rods typically knock on overrun, rev slightly and slowly release the throttle, and overrun begins the knock is loudest.  Mains loudest under load.  If it knocks at idle, and it is the flywheel, the noise should change when the clutch is depressed.

[Radarsonwheels]

I did this on my birthday in 2014. Fun!