Lowering a 54?

[addes426]

Found a 54 I'm pretty impressed with. 318/auto/8 3/4, runs and drives good. It needs to be lower though. I'm not interested in a frame or sub-frame swap. I'd like to do it in a way that it could be undone. I know I can flip the rear spring perches for 3"-4" out back. I can get the front dropped 3" over stock and loose some leaves. Reversing the spring eyes has been suggested too. Any other thoughts or ideas? 

[1952B3b23]

I've never seen this in person but I've read/seen pictures on a different forum of someone actually moving the front axle on top of the leaf springs. They had to re weld the spring perches to the bottom of the axle and monkey with a bunch of other stuff. If I was you I'd start by removing some leaves from all the spring packs. Then see how it looks. If you want it lower then I'd get the front axle dropped and move the rear axle over the springs. Removing leaves is probably the easiest thing to try first and the least expensive. Good luck.

-Chris

Edited January 29, 2014 by 1952B3b23

[addes426]

I've never seen this in person but I've read/seen pictures on a different forum of someone actually moving the front axle on top of the leaf springs. They had to re weld the spring perches to the bottom of the axle and monkey with a bunch of other stuff. If I was you I'd start by removing some leaves from all the spring packs. Then see how it looks. If you want it lower then I'd get the front axle dropped and move the rear axle over the springs. Removing leaves is probably the easiest thing to try first and the least expensive. Good luck.

-Chris

Yep. I don't think I'd want it so low it drags on things, I just like a lower look. I'm a bit afraid of the axle flip, sounds like opening a can of worms. I has to be safe, that's first. I've seen some lowered a bit, just right, and it looks better than in the weeds to me. I want to drive and enjoy it if I buy it. I think you're right on the money. 

[1952B3b23]

I like the lowered look also. Some guys just remove a couple leafs from each spring pack on there pilothouses and it levels them out nice and in my opinion look much better than stock height. I agree the truck needs to be safe. Lowering the front axle by having it dropped is a very common way of going about it. It is tried and true and been done by hot rodders for decades now. The following guy drops axles, dont know if you have ever been to this site:

 

http://www.droppedaxles.com/

 

I my self would not go the route of moving the front axle to the top of the leaf springs, ive never done it but my gut feeling says it just aint right. Moving the rear axle above the leaf springs is more of a common practice as well. If you were to do this you would have to c-notch the frame so that the axle doesnt hit under full compression or when you hit a nasty bump. It requires some fabrication and strengthening of the c-notched area cause you will have to cut a big notch into the frame rail. The best way to enjoy it if you buy it is removing a couple leaves and maybe a different wheel and tire package and see how you like the looks after that. It'll save you a bunch of work and money which is always good. As per usual this is just my 2 cents, hope it helps you a little.

 

-Chris  

[Plymouthy Adams]

when I want to drive a lowered truck...I just remove the deck lid from the sedan....lowering is one thing...and can be achieved in a couple of ways..as mentioned above...removing springs will get you lower but at a loss of the dampening rate...bottoming out is a bad side effect...changing position of the front will alter bump steer..hard to find a balance unless you actually get your spring profiled for the lower ride but still retain the rebound of stock at the lower height..

Edited January 30, 2014 by Plymouthy Adams

[MBF]

I don't think its possible to put the front axle on top of the springs w/o reinventing the wheel.  You're going to run into major interference problems with the tie rod and drag link chassis and oil pan clearance issues.  Just my input-take it for what its worth.  I'd go with removing a leaf or two.   Mike

[addes426]

I like the lowered look also. Some guys just remove a couple leafs from each spring pack on there pilothouses and it levels them out nice and in my opinion look much better than stock height. I agree the truck needs to be safe. Lowering the front axle by having it dropped is a very common way of going about it. It is tried and true and been done by hot rodders for decades now. The following guy drops axles, dont know if you have ever been to this site:

 

http://www.droppedaxles.com/

 

I my self would not go the route of moving the front axle to the top of the leaf springs, ive never done it but my gut feeling says it just aint right. Moving the rear axle above the leaf springs is more of a common practice as well. If you were to do this you would have to c-notch the frame so that the axle doesnt hit under full compression or when you hit a nasty bump. It requires some fabrication and strengthening of the c-notched area cause you will have to cut a big notch into the frame rail. The best way to enjoy it if you buy it is removing a couple leaves and maybe a different wheel and tire package and see how you like the looks after that. It'll save you a bunch of work and money which is always good. As per usual this is just my 2 cents, hope it helps you a little.

 

-Chris  

 

 

I've talked to the guy at the link in your post. He will re-shape the front axle adding 3" of drop for $350. I live near Wheeling, WV and there is a business there that builds springs for trucks, customs, etc. I can probably get them to fix me up. My concern with re-shaping the axle is that it will have to make a more narrow track. I know this whole lowering thing can all be done. It's been around for years. It's just new to me. I have a friend who is into flat head Fords and I know he has the skill set to talk me through it. Not everybody who builds something builds it well or safe. I want to respect the truck too, while making it my own. That's why I don't want to cut the frame for "C" notches. If this were a hacked up old clunker, I'd never give it a thought. 

[pflaming]

Your truck looks like my 52 B3B did before I lowered it. I removed the next to the bottom leaf, that sat it down about 2" all around and with wider tires looks, rides, drives, yet carries a decent load very nice. To my eye, if it were any lower, the top of the tires would go up into the fenders and I'm not sure I would like that. As is, they just fit the fender's radius and I like the look. 

 

Edited January 30, 2014 by pflaming

[addes426]

Your truck looks like my 52 B3B did before I lowered it. I removed the next to the bottom leaf, that sat it down about 2" all around and with wider tires looks, rides, drives, yet carries a decent load very nice. To my eye, if it were any lower, the top of the tires would go up into the fenders and I'm not sure I would like that. As is, they just come to the fender's radius and I like the look. 

 

Is it the truck in your avitar? I went to your profile hopping for a better pic. I like the look a lot. I think you and I may think a lot alike on several levels. Can you post a better pic of the truck? 

[ggdad1951]

I like the lowered look also. Some guys just remove a couple leafs from each spring pack on there pilothouses and it levels them out nice and in my opinion look much better than stock height. I agree the truck needs to be safe. Lowering the front axle by having it dropped is a very common way of going about it. It is tried and true and been done by hot rodders for decades now. The following guy drops axles, dont know if you have ever been to this site:

 

http://www.droppedaxles.com/

 

I my self would not go the route of moving the front axle to the top of the leaf springs, ive never done it but my gut feeling says it just aint right. Moving the rear axle above the leaf springs is more of a common practice as well. If you were to do this you would have to c-notch the frame so that the axle doesnt hit under full compression or when you hit a nasty bump. It requires some fabrication and strengthening of the c-notched area cause you will have to cut a big notch into the frame rail. The best way to enjoy it if you buy it is removing a couple leaves and maybe a different wheel and tire package and see how you like the looks after that. It'll save you a bunch of work and money which is always good. As per usual this is just my 2 cents, hope it helps you a little.

 

-Chris  

 

I think the less then one tons do look a little funny with the smaller wheels in those large wheel wells, but the larger trucks look pretty "right" with the larger tires.

[pflaming]

I had a full 230 cu in in the bed when I took this picture. It raised the front end a bit, but drove just find. I think if that were the lowered look with an empty bed, it would be too low for my taste. That engine and clutch housing probably weighed about 1,000 # so it shows that the springs still carry a nice load. I should mention that it does not drive top heavy on curves. I put in new king pins and disc brakes and it "tracks like a train". I drive it all the time. 

 

[8SECONDSS]

I've talked to the guy at the link in your post. He will re-shape the front axle adding 3" of drop for $350. I live near Wheeling, WV and there is a business there that builds springs for trucks, customs, etc. I can probably get them to fix me up. My concern with re-shaping the axle is that it will have to make a more narrow track. I know this whole lowering thing can all be done. It's been around for years. It's just new to me. I have a friend who is into flat head Fords and I know he has the skill set to talk me through it. Not everybody who builds something builds it well or safe. I want to respect the truck too, while making it my own. That's why I don't want to cut the frame for "C" notches. If this were a hacked up old clunker, I'd never give it a thought. 

The track will be the same. He stretches the axle to the original king pin width.

[addes426]

The track will be the same. He stretches the axle to the original king pin width.

 

 

Cool, didn't know that. Good info.

[1952B3b23]

I also really like the way Pauls truck sits, i hope to get mine sitting like that once its done. Its a little lower but definitely not in the weeds and looks just right!

 

-Chris

[Don Coatney]

I have posted this question a couple of times but it must have been lost when the forum crashed. Why does the truck need to be lowered? If you do so your ride comfort will suffer and your payload will shrink.

[pflaming]

"Why does the truck need to be lowered? If you do so your ride comfort will suffer and your payload will shrink."

 

I lowered mine for several reasons: I knew I would not ever haul anything heavy so I did not need the payload; I do not like the high look of the old trucks, to me they are visually better proportioned if lowered SOME; ride? comfort is always personal. To me I have a much softer ride, for example the back of the seat does not pound against my back in along drive, that pounding comes from stiff rear springs, and the bumps of the road while there are not as sharp.

 

So to me lowering is personal, like why did he paint his engine pink? Because that was what his daughter wanted, personal.

[B1B Keven]

I have posted this question a couple of times but it must have been lost when the forum crashed. Why does the truck need to be lowered? If you do so your ride comfort will suffer and your payload will shrink.

 

No, I deleted it 3 times

 

" Why does the truck "need" to be lowered?"

 

Is irrelevant and isn't helpful to the OP about 'how to lower' a '54.

 

 

Please, everyone, keep the posts on topic and helpful.

 

Thanks.

[DJ194950]

Is it the truck in your avitar? I went to your profile hopping for a better pic. I like the look a lot. I think you and I may think a lot alike on several levels. Can you post a better pic of the truck? 

 

Those Are the Best pics of Paul's truck Before he dumped the "good" camera in a lake while fishing!

Later pics with the camera he found in the dumpster don't do too well! 

Maybe when he finds a Good used camera.

 

Kidding, Patina Paul!

 

Doug

[Young Ed]

No, I deleted it 3 times

 

" Why does the truck "need" to be lowered?"

 

Is irrelevant and isn't helpful to the OP about 'how to lower' a '54.

 

 

Please, everyone, keep the posts on topic and helpful.

 

Thanks.

 

You do realize that elliminates at least half of the posts on this board right?

[48Dodger]

Don't see a problem with the question Kev. With the dangers of compromising the integrity of the original design, its a fair question.  My truck is lowered by virture of the designed front end I choose, the Dodge Diplomat. The same goes for my rear, a 97 ford T-bird IRS. So technically the front end/rear of the truck are not lowered, but rather the truck sits lower than stock. I did this for racing. Otherwise some of the lowering techniques mentioned are considered dangerous for street use. When the OP said "...pretty impressed with. 318/auto/8 3/4, runs and drives good. It needs to be lower though" I thought he was identifying a problem with the center of gravity, especially in the cornering, etc. Wasn't til later that he said "I don't think I'd want it so low it drags on things, I just like a lower look ". Which is fine by me, but I would reccomend a front end/rear (or frame) that is designed to be lower.

 

48D

[Scruffy49]

It's a 60 year old short bed that was only rated as a half ton brand new. Have fun with. I intend for my 49 to be about 2-3 inches further off the ground than this one is sitting, with no load.

 

 

If it will haul a cooler, a couple chairs and a couple fishing poles, good enough. I'd rather beat the stuffing out of a 73-87 C series or a 73-86 F series than my Pilot House. I'd have added 72 and newer Dodges to the list, but they're just parts donors for 71 and older trucks...

[48Dodger]

_{That's 51Fargo's truck.....he put a Diplomat front-end in and C-notched the frame for the 8 3/4 axle. Has a 360/904 combo like mine as well. His was done before mine so I had asked him a few question before my build in 2009. I believe he sold it.}

 

_48D

 

_{51fargo youtube video}

 

51Fargo Frame build

 

51Fargo for sale 1

 

51Fargo for sale 2

 

 

Edited January 31, 2014 by 48dodger

[pflaming]

Here are a couple you might enjoy. 

 

To my taste, the blue one is too low, the yellow one is almost, yet the angle of the camera can make a difference. I like the wood on the blue truck, but not the rims nor the modern fenders. I prefer the round fenders up through '53. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 31, 2014 by pflaming

[1952B3b23]

Im pretty sure that i have seen the blue pilothouse at the Eastern States Exposition car show, i believe it was a goodguys event. It was held last year in west Springfield MA, its a pretty cool truck but im not a fan of the wheels or the wood on the bed.

 

-Chris

[addes426]

To answer a couple questions, I think it needs to be lower because I like that look. I'm not going to haul anything but lawn chairs in it so pay load isn't important. I don't want to sub frame it because I want to respect the truck, as it was built, and I kinda dig the old school vibe. It's new to me though as I've never done it this way before. Sub frame, frame swap, I understand, this is new. I know I have to be careful of lots of things to keep it safe.  For me, the fun thing about this hobby is the smile it puts on my face. I may be wrong but I want what I want. I do greatly appreciate the input. I've learned a lot from the insights. I can respect a perfectly restored vehicle and a rat rod. (as long as it's road worthy and safe) I just like to see folks enjoying the cars. That's why it needs to be lowered, just my vision of making it mine. Thanks for all the input. Hope this helps.