Ride quality adjustments ?

[Young Ed]

Easier to just put 1000 or so pounds in the back and drive around a bit.

[pflaming]

Some may not realize this but the only area where the springs move is at the ENDS of the springs. 90% of the springs could be "welded" together, but the last bit is what flexes. This is not true. When the springs are apart, it appears they have only moved on the ends, but the leaves do move end to end. I stand corrected by Don in the following post. 

 

Now I realize that the entire leaf does flex but the maximum flex is at the last couple of inches. If one could put a piece of teflon "paper" two inches into the ends of each leaf, the ride would siginifcantly change. IMHO. 

 

I'm glad I did what I did, but it's a LOT of work, not a day job. What I did is on a thread in the truck forum. Note the last post and the pictures. 

 

 

Rear axle: 97 Wrangler to a 52 Dodge 1/2 T

Edited November 20, 2013 by pflaming

[Don Coatney]

 

Some may not realize this but the only area where the springs move is at the ENDS of the springs.

 

 

Suggest you think about this a bit more as your comment is not true. Every leaf of the spring flexes and when it does it changes shape and thus moves.

[48Dodger]

Gaiters are used to protect any part of a vehicle that would be subject to water/weather/mud damage. The rubber on CV joints, gas tubes on motorcycles, the ribbed rubber over shocks, are all called Gaiters. Boots have gaiters (rubber flaps) to protect from water getting inbetween the laces.

 

If you want to use penetrating oil on your leafsprings, protect your u-bolts from it when you spray it. The nuts may work loose and allow the axle to slide under hard turning etc.....don't ask me why I know this. lol.

 

48D

Edited November 20, 2013 by 48dodger

[Jeff Balazs]

If a truck sits unused for a long time rust crystals form between the leaf springs. I think my truck being dormant for twenty years the individual spring leaves formed one heavy duty spring.  Even with new shocks my truck felt like being in a shopping cart off a curb. After I greased the springs the ride seemed to gradually soften up.  I think servicing the springs like Paul did (not counting removal of springs, that's personal choice) is what anyone rebuilding an old work truck should do.

 

Hank   

Hank; I do agree and really wish I had done this. If I can't get where I like it by other less labor intensive methods I will probably take it to Deavers and let them have at it. They charge about $125 a spring set.

 

In the meantime I have started by doing liberal applications of penetrating oil and getting a few friends to help me get it to work in by standing on the bumper and making like a trampoline. I am sure it looks funnier than hell but there is a fair amount of rust particles streaming out of the springs. Wipe it down and do it again.....once in the morning and once in the evening before we go home. It actually seems to be working and we are all getting a laugh out of it. One thing about doing this in a shop type environment is there is almost always helpers at hand for this sort of stuff and several of the guys are genuinely excited to get this old truck back on the road.

 

Jeff

[pflaming]

Jeff, a video may be very appropriate. 

[Don Coatney]

.....don't ask me why I know this. lol.

 

48D

Why do you know this?

 

Here is what happens when the U-bolts work there way loose. The centering pin on the spring will sheer allowing the differential to shift hitting the shock and the vehicle will crab in a not so straight line. Fun to watch in the rear view mirror as it looks like the rear end is turing left when the car is turning right.

 

 

[Jeff Balazs]

Jeff, a video may be very appropriate. 

Paul;

I am sure you will appreciate this........but it would just be a blur......

 

Jeff

[55 Fargo]

Hey Guys;

I will use this truck for small pick ups and deliveries. Stuff like a run to the lumber yard for 10 or 12 sheets of plywood or delivering some doors or cabinets to a local customer. Nothing really heavy though......600# -800# most likely. It is my only vehicle so most of the time it will just take me back and forth to work and run errands. And it would be nice if it was comfortable on the freeways. Trips out of town and such. I may build a cross the bed box for it but I won't be leaving tools in it other than a jack and maybe some spares.

 

I was going to tackle the springs earlier on but got side tracked by the whole frame straightening process. By the time I got that sorted out other priorities took over. It could be that they would benefit from some attention. The shackles seem to be working as I would expect and have been liberally greased. It is a little hard to say how well the rear shocks are working. The fronts seem OK but then they are mounted quite differently than the rears. One idea I have had is to perhaps pull a leaf or maybe two from the rear sets and maybe find some air shocks to use to give me some adjustment capability. I have had this arrangement of more modern trucks and found it worked well.

 

Jeff

Interesting thread Jeff. This going to be your only vehicle huh, that is very cool....

[55 Fargo]

I put on a pair of gloves and covered the springs with my favorite Kendall Blue Grease pushing it hard between the spring leaves. Eventually it made a big difference and smoothed out the ride considerably. I've wiped them down since and could see how the rust eventually broke down.  I guess starting with a penetrating oil would be a good way to go. Didn't wagons and some early vehicles have leather covered springs to maintain grease ?

 

Hank   

I like this idea, what about Guys like me who live on dusty gravel roads? Those grease covered springs will have a layer of limestone dust in no time..

[Jeff Balazs]

Maybe that dust will polish up those springs.

PB blaster has a new corrosion guard spray......I might try that next.......looks and feels sort of waxy. Supposedly works well against salt?

Jeff

[HanksB3B]

I like this idea, what about Guys like me who live on dusty gravel roads? Those grease covered springs will have a layer of limestone dust in no time..

 

My springs were wiped down after they loosened up (you'll be able to tell). They are not greasy now and don't seem to be weeping rust.  I like Jeffs idea of using some sort of penetrating oil to get things started.

 

Hank 

[B1B Keven]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271160740344?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

[Jeff Balazs]

Keven;

If I was going to take mine apart myself I would get that stuff.

I went ahead and put some weight in it and shot the springs again. This time with PB blaster corrosion guard.

The rears are really starting to spew rust out. I will run it around some and wipe them down and then do it all over again. I can already tell that the range of movement is improving.

 

Jeff

[B1B Keven]

Jeff,

Me too. I might try it later on.

Jack the rear of the truck up with the rear bumper, you'll get more 'droop'

in the springs allowing the PB Blaster further in.

 

Keven

[Jeff Balazs]

Keven;

Good idea.

 

Jeff

[wallytoo]

Jeff,

Me too. I might try it later on.

Jack the rear of the truck up with the rear bumper, you'll get more 'droop'

in the springs allowing the PB Blaster further in.

Keven

i don't know. my springs don't separate when they droop. the leaves still contact the one above/below (except for the top/bottom leaf) all along the leaf.

[Jeff Balazs]

I went ahead and added 300# of sand bags and it seems much better now. Lubricating the springs and adding weight seems to be having the desired effect.

 

Jeff

[52b3b Joe]

Glad to know that seems to be working out Jeff! I've been planning on doing that when I get mine on the road. I've noticed on my truck, that there is always some rusty dust on the sides of my springs ever since I painted them from the little I have driven the truck, so I know that has to be a problem on mine. Thanks for letting us know it helps! 

[55 Fargo]

I am running about 350 lbs or so in the back of my 55, ride is actually nice, stock springs all in place, everything is free and lubed.

I recently installed new outer tie rod ends, king pins are tight, steering box is not bad, some small amount of play. about 1 to 2 inches in steering wheel.

These trucks still ride like a truck, i enjoy it, have bias tires, had radials before, that makes a difference too....

[Jeff Balazs]

Yes I found that adding some weight seems to take some of the wheel hop out of the rear. No big surprise there...... but I did think it was going to take a lot more than 300# to make much of a difference. I will continue lubing the springs and experimenting with more weight as so far I have been getting decent results. If the weight thing works out I will probably fabricate a frame rack of sorts and bolt it in behind the rear axle.

 

Jeff

[Dave72dt]

You do realize hauling extra weight around affects the fuel mileage and lowers the rear of the truck a bit.  Dropping a leaf may give you the same effect without the loss of mileage.

[ggdad1951]

You do realize hauling extra weight around affects the fuel mileage and lowers the rear of the truck a bit.  Dropping a leaf may give you the same effect without the loss of mileage.

 

Oddly my modern GMC mileage gets slightly better with 2 70 pound bags of sand in the back in winter....

[Don Coatney]

Oddly my modern GMC mileage gets slightly better with 2 70 pound bags of sand in the back in winter....

Might be because your driving patterns are different in the winter. A bit less throttle, speed, and hard braking to maintain traction.

[Jeff Balazs]

You do realize hauling extra weight around affects the fuel mileage and lowers the rear of the truck a bit.  Dropping a leaf may give you the same effect without the loss of mileage.

That is a possibility too. I think tuning suspension like what is on a truck like this can be just a matter of trial and error. And certainly specific driving conditions are a factor. My current commute is short but there is several relatively severe dips and.....some speed bumps. I feel like potentially trading some economy for a slightly smoother ride isn't a bad thing. If I make a rack with bolt-in removable weights it will give me the ability to adjust the ride for conditions that may change in the future. My truck has the side mount spare so there is a good area between the rear axle and the bumper to have a rack like I am thinking about.

 

Jeff