Need advice on buying stuff

[Grdpa's 50 Dodge]

I bought a service manuel for my car but see the need for a parts book. Any kinds of parts books to buy OR to stay away from???  See some on epay but not very cheap and unknown content

 

Also need the chrome horizontal piece directly under the tail light lens and benzel.  Whats that piece called? Or is it part of the tail light benzel?  I saw one here with a blue dot in it,,,mine has red dot, (reflector, I think)

 

Also been looking but no results so far for a custom made preformed 50 Dodge Coronet brake line kit.  Mostly to scare me into buying a roll of 25' and bending them myself.  Heard you are supposed to put double flares  on the ends.  I have done regular single flared copper water lines and that was hard enuf,,how hard is double flare to do??

[Oldguy48]

Double flares aren't that difficult, but....get a good quality flaring tool kit. I bought a Craftsman, and it works OK. I'm sure there are some better ones available. Read the instructions carefully, and practice, practice, practice. Take your time...don't try to hurry thru the process. If your flare doesn't look perfect, cut it off and try again. And don't forget to slip the fitting onto the brake line before you complete the flare !! (I share that tip from experience) Good luck.

Wayne

[Young Ed]

Yes you need a good quality tool. I bought a snap on one for about $40 off ebay. They were about 65 new last I checked. Also if you buying rolls check into the copper nickle alloy stuff.

[pflaming]

I did all the double flares on my truck. Like yourself, I had never formed a flare before. It's not big deal.  On the double flare you have to get the first bubble correct and that is determined by how far into the tool you put the line. A couple of bad ones and you'll catch on. Just be certain your lines are long enough so you can cut off several inches, i.e., several mistakes and still have line left. Go for it, you'll catch on.

 

Best to you.

 

GO HUSKERS!

[DJ194950]

What a Husker??   
 
 

Doesn't it have something to do with corn? 

Edited October 25, 2013 by DJ194950

[ssnowden]

This guy does a pretty good demo of how to do a double flare. http://youtu.be/4fmF9mm3hsM

[captden29]

I bought a flaring tool from harbor freight, about $20.00.it is a little difficult to work with but will do a double flare.the snap on or craftsman will probably be better. double flares are hard at first, but a little practice and they are fairly easy. capt den

[_shel_ny]

The lines are available in various length sections at most auto parts stores. They are easily shaped to route where they need to go. I bought a 25' roll (more rigid stuff-needed the bending tool as well) years back, and did the flares. Would buy the pre-made sections if I were to do it again.

 

 

 

EDIT: On ebay, you can get a "kit" including the lines/fittings that you need. Says that they are labeled for where each one goes.  All you are getting is the same lines/fittings that you can go to the parts store and buy. All you need is a tape measure. It is possible that you may need to cut and flare 1 or 2, but good planning and routing may eliminate that.

Edited October 25, 2013 by shel_ny

[desoto1939]

I would suggest that you get the lines that are more bendable instead the old style that nned the bending tool.  ALso do not use stainles steel lines they get brittle and are hard to make the flare.  As stated before get the flareing tool and practice to get the feel for what you are doing.

 

To test you fdouble flare making use two short lines and then connect them togehter. Plug the one end and get all connector tight.

Stil the line in so water and have the connected lines in the water then blow air into the line to see if you have any leaks.  You shold not see any air bubles.  If there are now bubles then you have gotten the flaring process down  and can start to work on you lines for the car.  Better to experiment before putting the lines inthe car and then seeing you have leaks. 

 

Do not use teflon table on the connectors.  Onthe parts book you do not need an original Dealers parts book. Look to see if you can get a reporduction. These are some time cheaper.  Only you are going to use the book.  When having a car shown for an AACA event the parts book even when shown in the trunk does not carry any wieght on the judging.  The parts book is only used incase the judge has a question about a part or accessory and then the book is used to verify that it is correct for your car or truck.  They do not care if the book is new old or has some wear.  Just need verification. 

 

Check the Bay for repro parts books

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[Old Ray]

 check into the copper nickle alloy stuff.

 

 

I would suggest that you get the lines that are more bendable instead the old style

 

Poly-Vinyl Fluoride Coated Steel Brake Line  

 

http://www.agscompany.com/faq/10

[hendo0601]

If you don't feel like bending up your own lines and flaring them, try checking out inline tube. They sell pre-bent brake line kits for just about every vehicle on earth. I did a quick search and found they have kits for early dodges too, but not specifically 1950...but I am sure if you call them they can help you out.

 

http://inlinetube.com/PDF%20catalogs/2010%20Customer%20catalog%20PDF%20COLOR/22%20Mopar.pdf

[Grdpa's 50 Dodge]

thanks all,  I work in a parts stre wit all those lines hanging on the rack but not sure of what prices they are.  seems their would be a few more joints and connections to leak someday. 

 

Saw that ebay listing for 35-40 bucks for the kit.  least they about know what it takes so might make a few less trips to the store to Get-er-done.  Dont know if those kits are hard line pieces or the soft hand form stuff.  I will price the soft hand bend stuff Sunday when I work next.

 

Just a clarification ,,this isnt going to be a show car for points and all that.  Just going to drive the car Grandpa drove.  Cousin was here from Texas and he cant wait to see it driven again too.  Course all he sees now is the dirty shell sitting on stands

 

Still wondering what that horz. piece under the tail light is called?

[hendo0601]

 

 

Saw that ebay listing for 35-40 bucks for the kit.  least they about know what it takes so might make a few less trips to the store to Get-er-done.  Dont know if those kits are hard line pieces or the soft hand form stuff.  I will price the soft hand bend stuff Sunday when I work next.

 

 

 

I saw that listing too, and that kit seems kinda like "one size fits most" and comes with all kinds of brake lines and fittings, some of which you may not need. The kit from inline tube, while more expensive, is already bent and ready to install with zero headaches or modifications. I used them years ago for a set of pre-bent transmission cooler lines for a 66 Chrysler with a big block and in a few days it showed up and was absolutely spot on perfect and even had all of the sheet metal spacers/braces right where they are supposed to be. If you really want to bend and flare all of your own lines for the "ididit" factor then more power to you...or if you want to make a phone call or click a few buttons in a few days some boxes will show up and then it is just a matter of installing them. I just saw that they offer a complete brake line kit for my 1950 Chrysler which I will be ordering soon.

[Don Coatney]

I bought this double flaring tool back in the 60's. I still works very well. I used it to do all the brake and fuel lines on my car. I bought a cheep tubing bender and it worked well once I got the hang of it.

 

[ptwothree]

Get a 25' roll of the copper nickel line. More then enough.  It's easy to work with, won't rust and looks good too.  The biggest problem I had was getting a 90 degree cut on the end of the line.  If this is not dome right then you won't get a proper flare.  I got great results from using a hacksaw for the initial cut and a dremel with a flat sanding disc.   Bevel the outside diameter of the tube with a file.  I rented a cheapo flaring tool from O'Reillys and it worked fine.  Correct preparation of the tubing is critical.  Get this right and just about any flaring tool in good shape will work.

 

I changed out all 7 hard lines on my P23 and no leaks .... BUT....like the man said...  practice practice practice.....

[Don Coatney]

You need to buy a tubing cutter. A hacksaw is not the way to go. Tubing cutters can be found at Lowes, home deposit, or any hardware or auto parts store. I have several but no pictures as I am on a road trip as I write this. I have one that goes up to 2" iron pipe.

 

http://www.lowes.com/pd_131848-21365-55296_0__?productId=4084030&Ntt=tubing+cutter&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dtubing%2Bcutter&facetInfo=

[Young Ed]

thanks all,  I work in a parts stre wit all those lines hanging on the rack but not sure of what prices they are.  seems their would be a few more joints and connections to leak someday. 

 

Saw that ebay listing for 35-40 bucks for the kit.  least they about know what it takes so might make a few less trips to the store to Get-er-done.  Dont know if those kits are hard line pieces or the soft hand form stuff.  I will price the soft hand bend stuff Sunday when I work next.

 

Just a clarification ,,this isnt going to be a show car for points and all that.  Just going to drive the car Grandpa drove.  Cousin was here from Texas and he cant wait to see it driven again too.  Course all he sees now is the dirty shell sitting on stands

 

Still wondering what that horz. piece under the tail light is called?

 

FYI I did my car and truck with lines from the local store and they only one that I couldnt get long enough was the front to back run. So by using those lines I added 1 additional joint over stock. However I did still cut and flair 1 end of some of them if they were too long.

[Grdpa's 50 Dodge]

Here are the parts I refered to

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-1950-Dodge-Coronet-Taillight-Reflectors-W-Bezels-Trim-/261304402291

 

Just wondering if those are year specific like 50 only,,,,or are they same on a range of years??   I ask cause I know where a 49 is but unsure condition or if they are even on there.

 

Just to explain a bit,,my car took a small hit right above the bumper and below the  tail light lens frame.  Lens as broken but not frame but this horizontal chrome piece that ebay keeps calling the light benzel.  So maybe it is.  It has the reflector unharmed too but the horz. piece holding the reflector is broken.

 

My fenderbetween that and the bumper is caved in about 3 to 4 inches.  I can clearly see it from underneath,,,even see where the crease outward should be.  IF I take a 2 bye 4  or 6 under their with my short handle sledge will it pop out pretty straight or will it be hammer tracked and look worse than it does right now?? 

 

Long term I am prob going to have to paint the car anyway.  I have a few spots, areas, where something took the paint off to the bare metal and I dont know how to protect it otherwise.  But that will be about the last and I havent started # 1 yet.

 

Will pounding out the dent make it worse or better.?  And are 49 benzels same as 50's???

[Dave72dt]

Without seeing the dent. it's hard to say. A dent 3 to 4 " deep in a 4 foot length is not a severe as one in a one foot long length. It changes how much the metal has been stretched. You'll need some kind of backer on the edges of the dent so any hammer work you do only moves the metal in the dent and not the surrounding area and distorting the entire panel.

[_shel_ny]

Bezel's

 

My book lists 50-52 as same #'s  

 

Does not show #'s for 49

[DJ194950]

Pictures of the damaged area are best for ideas on repair!

 

Get er on the road is first priority!

 

Doug

[pflaming]

To find out where the pm's are, look at the top right of the screen. Two icons one form PM's and one for Messages. You can respond to the PM but not to the 'message'.

[Grdpa's 50 Dodge]

Shell Ny,

Yes my research when rested and not so tired leads me to same conclusion.  Just never know exactly how accurate those images are because I see mistakes from time to time in item descriptions.

 

  Seems 49's didnt have those and the 50, 51 and 52 shared same reflector holder,,, aka benzel(?)

 

So I guess I am back to square one,I posted a wanted ad here,,,and I can always buy those 2 used ones on e-pay.

 

Mine has a bubbly pitted areas of the chrome on under side where (salt) may stay,,,or is this normal aging for chrome??