Should I open up the engine?

[ssnowden]

I know that the 230 engine was completely rebuilt in 1980 and we only put about 3000 miles on the rebuild, then it was parked mainly because of the brakes and needing to drive longer distances for work.

 

When I checked to see if it would turn over, it did and the oil pressure gauge showed it has oil pressure.  

 

I'm wondering, is there any need to open it up and check anything?  Or should I just clean it up, change the fluids, plugs, etc, check compression and if the compression is good, use it? 

 

[meadowbrook]

Why not? If no noises and runs ok, it should be ok.

[Eneto-55]

Some will probably say to tear it back down & do a complete inspection, because of all that could have happened on the inside during those years.  I rebuilt my engine in 81, and have never started it. (I got married in 83, and moved out of the US in 85, returning in 03.  The car is still over 900 miles from where we are living now.)  Some have advised that (when I get it moved here) I open it back up and inspect everything again.  Like I said, it was never started, but I have turned it over (with a crow bar on the flywheel) every few years, when I've been back at my folks' place to visit.  (I haven't moved it out here because we live in town, and the place has a deed restriction against "out buildings", so I can't build a shop here.)

Edited October 4, 2013 by Eneto-55

[RobertKB]

  Or should I just clean it up, change the fluids, plugs, etc, check compression and if the compression is good, use it? 

 

 

Yes.

[austinsailor]

You might pull the pan, check for trash and water - not everything drains when the plug is out. You can check most of it then, even put some plastigauge on a couple bearings. Other than that, I sure wouldn't take it apart without a specific reason.

[Don Jordan]

I don't know - first thing I would do is a compression check. If that's good fire her up.

[Desotodav]

You might pull the pan, check for trash and water - not everything drains when the plug is out. You can check most of it then, even put some plastigauge on a couple bearings. Other than that, I sure wouldn't take it apart without a specific reason.

 

I agree with Gene: It would only cost you an oil pan gasket set to drop the sump, and a plastigauge check would indicate any bearing/crankshaft wear. A cleanup and a compression check would be a must, as well as a good flush of the engine block and radiator.

[knuckleharley]

I know that the 230 engine was completely rebuilt in 1980 and we only put about 3000 miles on the rebuild, then it was parked mainly because of the brakes and needing to drive longer distances for work.

 

When I checked to see if it would turn over, it did and the oil pressure gauge showed it has oil pressure.  

 

I'm wondering, is there any need to open it up and check anything?  Or should I just clean it up, change the fluids, plugs, etc, check compression and if the compression is good, use it? 

 

The best advise you will ever get is "If it ain't broke,don't fix it."

 

It's not like you are going to run out of other things to fix or spend money on. Trust me on this one.

[knuckleharley]

... a plastigauge check would indicate any bearing/crankshaft wear.

Why would it have any crankshaft wear? He only drove it 3k miles before it was parked,and bearings don't wear out on engines that just sit.

[TodFitch]

I'd change the oil, put some oil in the cylinders as I tuned up the ignition. If you have a pre-oiler great, otherwise leave the plugs out and crank it over until some pressure shows on the gauge. Then try to fire it up.

 

I wouldn't be too worried about low compression at first as the rings might be a bit stuck after sitting. But with 3K miles you have a new and just barely broken in engine there. I'd not even drop the pan unless something really surprising came out while changing the oil.

[austinsailor]

The more important thing is to get any containments out. Blocks seldom freeze just sitting ( in my experience) unless maybe uncovered and the get rain in them. But condensation will form in the crankcase. That condensation will settle at the bottom of the pan and that last 1/4" inch or so often doesn't drain.

Also, people - used to include me - sometimes think that clean oil on the dipstick means all is well. Problem is, crap in oil settles, leaving the top looking great, bottom is trash. If you doubt it'll settle, think about this. Big ships use centrifuges to clean oil, sort of like very fast settling. They use the same oil for a long time.

Taking off the pan, you get all this. Plastigauge? Almost comes for free at this point just for confidence. If someone has the inclination. I wouldn't put it high on the list. Just the appropriate time at maybe $5 cost if you're concerned.

[Don Coatney]

I am in agreement with what Tod said. His advice is exactly what I would do. If, after starting the engine and running it until it comes to full operating temperature, you find problems then correct them as required.

[captden29]

the 265 in my 54 Windsor sat for 25 years. it was parked, the key turned off, covered and left as is. I checked the compression, put a little oil in the cylinders and turned it over, changed fluids, tune up, had clean fuel at the carb., and started it up. runs fine to this day. I do need to drop the pan and flush the block as it runs a little hot. I have changed the water pump, water tube, and recored the radiator. always something to do. you have a lot more to do before driving this car, so any engine problems will surface when driven and can then be addressed. my feeling is that internally this engine should be close to perfect. it's all the other stuff that will need fixing repairing or rebuilding. just my thoughts from my own experience.  capt den 

[meadowbrook]

In agreement with most here.

When I obtained my 1950 Dodge with a 230, it was sitting for 12 years in a garage. I drained the oil cold, drained the gas, refilled the tank and added new oil and filter. Rebuilt the carb. Then I pulled the plugs and added oil to all cylinders and cranked the engine with no plugs till I got oil pressure. Then I replaced the plugs and fired it up. It took a while to fire, but once it caught, it ran like it was running on 3 cylinders. I think some valves were stuck. Blew tons of smoke.

Then it progressivelly ran smoother, until suddenly, it ran as smooth as silk. I suspect the valves finally got unstuck.

 

That was about 10,000 miles ago. I believe that engine is original and unrebuilt. It now runs beautifully, no smoke whatsoever, starts instantly, runs at 50 psi on 90 degree days and between 10 and 20 idling.

 

Compression is low, about 100 on 5 cylinders and 85 on the front cylinder. But I guess it's ok because it starts quickly in any weather (assuming I pump the gas the proper way)

 

It also never overheats even idling on 90 degree days for long periods of time or running hard on the highway (I have an R7 overdrive so I can cruise at 75 MPH and it is spinning at 2800 rpm).

 

Moral of the story is this engine is one tough cookie. So I said all that to say...dont disassemble anything beyond maybe rebuilding the carb and cleaning out the fuel system unless you hear scary noises.

 

To be frank, once warm I do hear a light clicking that goes away with revs. Might be a wrist pin (sounds different from a loose valve and remained after I adjusted the valves).

 

But it runs like a top.

[1941Rick]

Change the oil, put in fresh gas and start it up....it will tell you the next move......shes ugly on the outside, but could be jewel on the inside.....

[Desotodav]

Why would it have any crankshaft wear? He only drove it 3k miles before it was parked,and bearings don't wear out on engines that just sit.

 

I put 1500 miles on my motor after it supposedly had a 'full-rebuild'. Then (as the result of a rear main oil leak) I pulled it down and it turned out that the crankshaft did not get a grind as part of the rebuild. I guess that it all boils down to the integrity of the Mechanic one uses as the whether the job is done right or not!

 

There are many more mechanically-minded people than me on this site. In my opinion though, I was always taught to drain the oil while it was hot as this allows for better drainage. I wouldn't feel comfortable running an engine that had sat for 20 years+ without checking the sump for wasp mud, metal flakes from the rebuild etc. 

[Plymouthy Adams]

while I may give you a pass on the wasp mud..3000 miles would be a normal break in and with an oil change or tw0 in there as is normal for a new engine breaking in...any metal that was coming off from new parts  (cast flash etc) sould long have been gone...other than sitting there is no real reason to suspect anything wrong unless it was parked for other than the brakes..

 

change the oil would be a good idea, crank with the ingnition truned off to verify oil pressure..if pressure add ignition and fire the beast up...watch for leaks, temp rise and such...then..business a usual

[knuckleharley]

I put 1500 miles on my motor after it supposedly had a 'full-rebuild'. Then (as the result of a rear main oil leak) I pulled it down and it turned out that the crankshaft did not get a grind as part of the rebuild. I guess that it all boils down to the integrity of the Mechanic one uses as the whether the job is done right or not!

 

 

I have a machine shop rebuilt SBC engine that came with my 32 Ford coupe that I decided to tear down before installing or starting it because the seller seemed a little flaky,and all my friends were jumping on me for being too cheap to buy a gasket kit. When I pulled the heads the seller had poured sand in the cylinders. When I pulled the crank and miked the jouranls,the rod bearings were the wrong size. The seller obviously poured the sand in the cylinders (his girlfriend was making him sell it because he owed her money and was living in her house),but the machine shop in Maryland that turned the crank and assembled the short block obviously screwed that up.

 

Still,this poster had his engine rebuilt,installed,and he drove it 3k miles before he parked it because he said he needed something better suited for daily commuting. He even had it parked inside all this time. If it's not stuck or cracked from freezing,I just can't see anything else that could be wrong with it.

[ssnowden]

I dropped the oil pan as suggested in this thread and checked it out. There wasn't really any crud in the pan, but the oil was a bit thicker than normal and sticky in bottom of the pan. It came out easily. 

 

 

I looked up in the engine and could see some surface rust on the cylinder walls of the pistons that were up. You can see it in the middle of this picture. 

 

[Adam H P15 D30]

Put that pan back on and drive it.......  I've let them sit longer than that.

Edited November 3, 2013 by Adam H P15 D30

[Niel Hoback]

    Drive it, that ain't broke enough yet. Don't be so picky.