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Posted

I've wanted a flathead 6 powered Model A coupe or truck for a while now so when I had the chance to buy a 218 for an awesome price I jumped on it! Even better was that is was only a few minutes away from my house. So far the plan includes an Edgy aluminum head, big cam, 3x1 intake with Carter BB's, header, stainless valves from a small block Chevy, and a 230 crank and rods.

 

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Posted

". . . Edgy aluminum head. . ."  What benefits come with this head, and why the "stainless steel valves" from the Chevy?  Will be watching this thread, will not do what you are doing but these mechanical creations fascinate me. 

Posted

Didja notice all his pistons had all their rings.  Also just a note to be very careful with that engine on that three legged engine stand.  Those can get very unstable with that much weight (700 #'s) hanging on them.  Several folks have reported messing up a nearly complete rebuild when trying to roll an engine in late stages of reassembly.  I know the Edgy head is very nice eye candy, but milling the stock head can be just as effective in raising compression ratio and so much more reasonable in cost.  Good luck and keep the pictures coming.  You may have noticed that the rods are offset.  it is important to keep them in their matched pairs.  especially when swapping in parts from another engine.

  • Like 1
Posted

The last motor I built, I shaved the head .070 and decked the block .020 and it was just over 8:1 compression. I want to try an edgy head because it's a bolt on 9:1 compression and the aluminum should cool better than a stock cast head. I want to try the SBC valves because they are a bit bigger and everyone I've talked to says they're the easiest valves to make work in a flathead.

  • Like 1
Posted

Very cool, maybe just maybe someday will try something similar, late 20s early 30s dodge/plym type hot rod. i do like the A model idea with this engine, looking forward to your progress....

Posted (edited)

An open question?

About a year ago a friend bought a reground crank and rods from what what was supposed to be a 230" mopar motor that was only run for a short time. Reasons for removal were due to some machine shop used of wrong type rings and motor smoked badly. Owner then built a diff. motor/ diff. machine shop to install in his 48 cpe.
Decided to sell the crank and rods pretty reasonably and was bought by my friend for future build of 49 Ply. bus. cpe.
Question is did all 230 cranks have 8 holes in flange? Did some 218's also have 8 hole crank flanges?

Since the crank is not in a engine at this point cannot measure the stroke easily, only compare rod lenghts compared to a 218" rod.

Just thinking 4 hole v.s. 8 hole might be an easy way to know the crank stroke. Am I just wishing??  :huh: 

Thanks, :)

 

 

Think about my post I now see that I should have started my own post/questions.  :(

Sorry, I'll try do again later! And I must go inside now as it's just to damm hot in the garage,

Thanks for your understanding!!  ;)

 

Doug

Doug

Edited by DJ194950
Posted

Thank You Doug!!  sorry about the open ended question..  I though about that as I posted it. 

Im just new to this era cars and was wondering if there was a market for those parts therefore available if you seek them or do most find by purchasing the whole motor..  Im in the process of getting my 40 desoto rebuld (not sure of what size engine it is since the numbers where re-stamped) and would like to get some extra power by adding larger rotating assembly to do so..

 

Thanks for your response..

Posted

All fluid drive engines had the eight hole cranks because  the fluid drive unit is so heavy.  That being said I do not know why the 230 cranks from Vintage Power Wagons would have eight holes as the Military 3/4 ton vehicle was standard shift with dry clutch.  Seems the parts I have bought from them over the years were military surplus as they came in military boxes and were coated in the preservative that the military uses..

Posted

I suspect it was for manufacturing simplicity. The 218 I have out of a pilothouse truck is 8 holes too. I would guess if there was any chance the engine was going to be put in front of a fluid drive they made it have 8 holes so there was no confusion later on. That is until we come along and try to figure this stuff out 50+ years later.

Posted

Just to throw in a monkey wrench, my 56 plymouth 230 engine uses a 6 bolt/hole setup.  Maybe somebody can explain that.

8 bolt used on fluid drive due to the rotating mass. 8 bolt used on 4 wheel drive due to the powertrain requirements. 4 bolt used on two wheel drive. 6 bolt? Is your car 3 wheel drive :lol:

Posted

Sorry for the delayed reply, I have been really busy the last few days. I got the crank, rods and flywheel from a local mopar guy that has a bunch of misc parts. The 218 in my D19 has a 6 bolt crank and fluid drive transmission, the crank in the 218 I'm building was a 4 bolt and it was out of a 1/2 ton, 4 speed truck and I was told the 230 crank I got was out of a 3/4 ton truck and it's 8 bolt. I really have no idea why they're are so many variations of cranks, but I'd like to know the real answer!

Posted

So just curious. The 8 bolt flywheels for the 218 are the bolts D shaped as well?

Posted

Just to throw in a monkey wrench, my 56 plymouth 230 engine uses a 6 bolt/hole setup.  Maybe somebody can explain that.

 

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Greg, my 56 engine also has the 6 bolt flywheel.     My 56 had a standard 3 speed trans.

 

I used the starter from the 56, in my 38 Coupe.      

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

For the last few months I've been trying to get parts together and save up some money for this car. Friday I got the block, crank and rods back from the machine shop. Bored .060 and decked .015 with new cam bearings and freeze plugs installed. I also sent my cam to Oregon Cam Grinding for a 288 / .410 grind. Started porting the block tonight.

 

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Edited by chop
  • Like 2
Posted

What are you porting too?  manifold, gasket??  What are you using for an intake set up?  You mentioned 3 carbs, are you maiking your own intake??

Posted

Yep, just put the gaskets on there and traced an outline. They can really be opened up a lot as long as you're careful not to go too far towards the deck because of the water jacket. I'll also clean up the inside by where the valve guides go. A friend of mine is cutting me out an intake / exhaust manifold flange out of 3/8" steel on his plasma table so I can make a integrated intake and header.

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