Brake Grabs, Ok After A Bit, Grabs Next Day D24

[Avianman]

Forgive me if this is in the wrong section. It seems we have a technical section and a general, and technical stuff is being posted in either....

My 46 Dodge Deluxe has a rear brake that is grabbing, even when lightly pressed. It is only the right rear.

Sometimes it will apply without me pressing the pedal, though only right after it is released. (Apply brakes, come to a stop, release pedal, brake either doesn't release or releases briefly and then grabs again quickly without pedal being pressed - it does not randomly grab when going down the road)

Here's the thing which may offer some suggestions.-

If it locks up and I come to a stop and I apply the emergency/parking brake even just a little bit and release, the brake will release.

Sometimes if it goes through a few cycles (5 - 10 full stops) the problem seems to go away.

Originally I had thought it might be rust on the drums from sitting, but the problem comes back daily (well, I've only owned it a couple of days) I guess I just figured that if it is rust, the problem wouldn't reappear after it goes away in a day.

Pedal has good feel, no leaking brakes visually. I have not yet pulled the drum to look inside.

Thanks! And I did do a search, but symptoms are not quite the same.

[Young Ed]

Typically when I've seen that its from brake fluid contaminated shoes.

[Don Coatney]

Suggest you pull the drum and look inside. The parking brake and the wheel brakes are two different systoms and not connected.

[greg g]

or the outer axle seal is letting gear lube past it onto the backing plate,  A look underneath at the suspect wheel will confirm the presence of an oil or other liquid stain.  Not a lot of fix except to pull the hub, fix whatever is leaking and replace the friction material on the brake shoes.  Oil or brake fluid on the friction material will cause the shoe to grab and not release.  Check the Bleeding the MC in the car thread, there is a link to old MOPAR training videos regarding brakes.  If you need to pull the hub, you need a special tool to free the hub drum assembly its connection to the tapered axle. 

[Merle Coggins]

Based on the pic of your car used in your Avatar, I wonder if it still has the stock axle. If it is a later model axle then the parking brake MAY tie in somehow. I do agree that you'll probably have to pull the drum and have a look to know for sure, but something is definitely wrong in there.

 

Merle

[Avianman]

It is the car in my avatar, but it is all stock.

Must just be coincidence about the parking brake?

[squirebill]

Might not apply but just for information: in the mid-70s had a 65 chevy Malibu where one of the rear brakes would lock up and skid on the pavementwhen coming to a stop. Pulled the drum on that side and all looked good. Pulled the drum on the other side and it was coated with axle oil. Replaced axle seals. Point I'm trying to make is the "bad" brake might be on the other side.

[P15-D24]

If you just purchased the car for safety's sake I would pull all four drums and do an inspection. Something is not correct. Second while you have the drums off NEVER STEP ON THE BRAKE PEDAL as the wheel cylinder pistons will pop out, leaking brake fluid all over everything.  Report back what you find. 

[Dan Hiebert]

My D24 did this twice. Once on the driver's side front, then again a couple years later on the passenger side front. Both times the culprit was the brake return spring (that pulls the shoes together) that broke.

[Avianman]

Trying to inspect the brakes in my D24... Book says I need to remove the hub to get to the drum/shoes. They have me using a fancy schmancy tool with the tire on. Well, that won't work with the wheels I have on, so is there another way? (I don't have that tool anyway)

Looks simple, but I find they rarely are....

[Young Ed]

Not sure what they are saying about the wheel being on but yes you need a puller. It attaches directly to the drum and pushes on the axle to pull the drum/hub combo.

[48 plymouth]

In the old days they would loosen the nut and drive hhe car.

[greg g]

As noted loosen the axle nut about half a turn or so, reinsert the cotter pin and then drive it making some hard left and right turns.  An old parking lot is a good place, you can do S turns or alemand left and right.  You should hear a POP.  then drive home, you can then remoce the wheel and get to the drum/hub assembly.  The other option is to go to you local auto parts place and ask to borrow or rent their biggest, heavy duty puller.  It should have at least three legs to connect to three wheel lugs.  Lots of stories on here about peoples successes and failures.  If you desire you can modify your dru /hub, by grinding the rivets and removing then to separate the drum from the hub.  This will make them more like modern deals where the wheel lugs then center and hold the drum onto the hub, which during the nex service will stay attached to the axle.

 

These can be a bear, and the experience can have a tendency to add many threads to your tapestry of profanity hanging i the shop.

[TodFitch]

Having had a hub come off because of a forgotten cotter pin, I can attest to the efficacy of having a loose nut as a way to loosen up the fit of the hub on the axle taper. Of course you don't know how long it will take. In my case it was about 6 weeks.

 

But I prefer to use a puller. From http://www.ply33.com/Repair/axle_seal/

 

[P15-D24]

And don't forget to review the Brake article in the Tech section at the top of the page.