thall0726 Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 (edited) I am new to these trucks. I have a 49 B1B that has been stored in a barn for quiet some time. I don't know if it runs of even know where to begin checking things to try to make run. First off I'm don't think the truck has a batter and I cannot find where a battery might go or ever where one would hook up. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and would like to get this thing running and fixed up a little bit but just don't really know where to start to get it running. I tried to post a picture but would not upload for some reason. Edited April 15, 2013 by thall0726 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reg Evans Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 (edited) The battery compartment is located under the floor board at the drivers feet. Make sure you clean the battery connections real well at both ends. Good luck and congrats on finding a nice old truck Edited April 15, 2013 by Reg Evans 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruffy49 Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 (edited) Pretty much guaranteed that the brake system is a complete write off. Even if it looks good. I overhauled my trucks brakes in spring 1994, by spring 2011 from sitting up again they were junk. Wheel cylinders had become full of "green sand", the gunk you get when DOT 3 eats aluminum, steel and rubber. Before you even think about turning over the engine by the starter (really fun process to learn, not being sarcastic here) take out each spark plug and add at least 1/4 cup of 50/50 ATF and acetone. Let it sit for a couple days, add the same amount and wait another day or so. These engines have cast iron blocks, iron rings, and aluminum pistons, there will be at least one stuck ring you need to soak free. Find a socket that will fit the crankshaft nut. Get the longest breaker bar you can find and try to turn the engine over by hand. My crank socket for 40's engines is huge, 1 and 13/16 inch, 3/4" or 1" drive, but has 4 holes to use rod stock as breaker bars. Sockets that large are not cheap, you want a vintage USA made one, not modern thin wall chi-com pot metal. Keep adding the atf/acetone blend and soaking until you can turn the crank by hand with a breaker bar. Once the rings are unstuck, the gurus will talk you through the next steps of bringing her back to life. I learned the hard way how fragile the rings in these things are after sitting up... Edited April 15, 2013 by Scruffy49 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 I would add one small item to Scuffy's suggestion. Try to turn the engine back and forth and thus put and release the pressure on what may be stuck. Unsticking the engine, in my opinion is the greatest part of getting an old vehicle back to life. When It fires the first time, it's like a baby's first cry, unforgettable! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B1B Keven Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 Congrats and welcome to the forum!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apittslife Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 Welcome to the forum, & the truck is Positive ground, & 6 Volt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 (edited) 1. Clean all the junk out of it so ya have just the truck to work on2. Engine: drain the oil(s); pull the spark plugs & add the diesel/ATF/marvel mystery oil in the cylinders for the soaking of the rings; pull the side valve covers and see if any of the valves are stuck once the crankshaft gets turning, prepare to replace all seals, gaskets, hoses & all other rubber on the engine as they'll be toast; with the correct socket & long enough breaker bar, turn that crankshaft (back & forth) to get it spinning again...if the engine has been sitting for decades, ya might have corrosion rings in the cylinder walls, valve stems, etc. so the engine might need a complete teardown, possibly some machine work too.3. Electrical: Replace all of that original wiring...the original insulation falls off making the wiring harness unsafe. The original 6V system uses larger wiring gauge than 12V, and the original battery cables, which may look okie dokie, probably have internal corrosion that'll boost the starting circuit's resistance sky high, crippling the starter. The generator, starter & alternator will need to be inspected/partially disassembled to verify mechanical functionality and to clean any crud that has built up over the years.4. Fuel storage/delivery: prepare to replace all the fuel lines as they'll probably be so fouled to be useless; get the carb & fuel pumps cleaned/rebuilt (kits are available for both); get the tank cleaned out & check for leaks (Gas Tank Renu may be in your future as the perimeter seam weld is prone to rust pinholes).5. Consider some engine upgrades: 180F thermostat to boil out condensation in the crankcase for sludge reduction, PCV system for sludge reduction/cleaner engine, compression ratio increase to 8.0:1 (machining required) for about 20-30 hp increase6. With a functional engine, prepare to replace seals in the transmission & rear axle as they'll be toast. Check bearings/races for galling/corrosion; be prepared to replace most of them7. With a functional drivetrain, prepare to replace the entire braking system. The hydraulic lines will probably have corrosion and be prone to leaks. Master cylinder/ wheel cylinders will probably have pitting in the bores that will require sleeving or replacement. There are some brake upgrades out there, but getting the motor running is top priority...what's the point of having the 'whoa' if'n ya ain't got any 'go'? Edited April 16, 2013 by JBNeal 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B1B Keven Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 Oh, and before you hurt yourself, the lug bolts on the drivers side are left hand (reversed) thread! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lugnut123 Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 That's a good mlist of stuff to bring the beast up to grade. Also if you change the battery cables and stay with 6 volt install the larger guage bat. cables. The starter draws more ampps with a 6 volt system so they need to be bigger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P15-D24 Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 Read through all the Tech articles on the site! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thall0726 Posted April 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 Awesome thanks so much for the help ill start with all that stuff. I can turn the fan and the crank shaft will turn is that a good thing or is it a bad thing that it will turn that easy? Also where is the best place to find parts for this truck only website I have found so far is VPW. thanks again for the info. I'll try to figure out how to post a picture of it for you guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 A free engine is a Good thing. It's still possible that you could have a valve or two sticking, but that's minor. I'd still try to get a little oil into the cylinders to offer a little lube on things before start up. Check with your local parts stores for parts. Napa, Advanve Auto, Auto Zone, O'Reilly, etc, have many engine and brake system parts available. They'll have other parts listed too, but they likely wont have much in stock. You could also check out Rock Auto.com Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 Also where is the best place to find parts for this truck Depending on your needs most engine related stuff can be found at most any good auto parts store. No need to pay inflated prices to a antique vendor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 welcome! PICTURES! We are picture whores! Lots of good on those lists! Tons of info here, don't be afraid to ask! I look forward to your project! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 (edited) When I started out, someone suggested I buy a COMPLETE gasket set. That was GREAT advise, which has saved me a lot of trips to some parts store. I think my set cost around $160, a bargain in my opinion. Enjoy the process, it's a fun truck to drive. OR: if you are not concerned that the truck keeps it's original engine, wait and watch the forum., in the past several years here have been at least three rebuilt engines for sale by owners who built them, often with neat add-ons like dual carbs, exhaust ports, etc. then sell them pennies on the dollar because they put in a small V-8. Those are BARGAINS! Edited April 16, 2013 by pflaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thall0726 Posted April 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 Thanks for the advice I pan on going ahead and doing a gasket kit on the motor. I was looking at videos online and I seems the best way to do major work on these engines is to take the whole front clip off. I'm thinking of doing a complete resto so I may have the cab and everything off anyways. Not completely sure on that. Also I tried to post a picture but it is saying the file is to large so I will have to get my wife to make it work when I get home from work tomorrow. Also with a full resto from the frame up what is a truck like this worth? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 honestly, you'll never get what you put into it for a resto. I've got over 20K into FEF but doubt I'd be able to get over 15K of I ever had to sell him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 Thanks for the advice I pan on going ahead and doing a gasket kit on the motor. I was looking at videos online and I seems the best way to do major work on these engines is to take the whole front clip off. I'm thinking of doing a complete resto so I may have the cab and everything off anyways. Not completely sure on that. Also I tried to post a picture but it is saying the file is to large so I will have to get my wife to make it work when I get home from work tomorrow. Also with a full resto from the frame up what is a truck like this worth? Any plans on flipping it and coming out ahead should be pushed from your mind. Your defintion of "restored" may be entirely different than mine or a potential buyer so values of a finished project can vary greatly. Although gaining in popularity, these trucks still don't draw the numbers the other brands do. Enjoy the truck and the hobby for what it is. These trucks look simple to work on and for the most part, they are. All too often though, frame up restos become overwhelming for any number of reasons, including financial and end up sitting dismantled as unwanted yard art or sent to the crusher. Not saying that will happen to you, simply the facts of what happens often. Post your progress as you go along, your frustrations as well. Forum members have gone through everything you have and will offer advice, answers to technical questions and encouragement all along the way. Don't be afraid to quiz the people in the chat room on issues either. Topics of discussion vary widely, very informal but you can get answers to technical questions as well. Good luck with your project and welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
52b3b Joe Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 You sound like me when I started...I thought since I was taking the front clip off to get to the engine, I might as take the cab off. I suppose looking at it now it was probably a good way to go at it, but it was a lot of work to have it down to a bare frame and to restore everything panel, nut, bolt, assembly, etc from there on out. Also plan to blow what ever budget you have in mind! It is worth every penny and headache though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thall0726 Posted April 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 I will keep my progress updated should get started on it tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 Welcome to the forum! This is a great place with tons of info and really helpful people. I agree with always posting your progress and the troubles you are having theres always someone that will be willing to help you out. I find that it also helps to boost morale when you're getting really frustrated. It is a lot of work and i am still well in the middle of a big swap in my '52 but just thinking about driving the old girl again keeps me going. If you just attack each problem idividually and ask lots of questions it is much less overwhelming. I try to attack it like a nice big steak dinner, one bite at a time. Good luck with your project and remember problems are solvable, some more challenging than others but more often than not someone else on here has gone through the same troubles. Cheers, -Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thall0726 Posted April 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2013 Quick question. How do I know if the system is 6v or 12v because there is no battery on board Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reg Evans Posted April 17, 2013 Report Share Posted April 17, 2013 Remove one of your headlight bulbs. It should say 6 or 12 volt on the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted April 17, 2013 Report Share Posted April 17, 2013 Red tag on the starter/gennerator indicates 6 volt. Green tag indicates 12 volts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thall0726 Posted April 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2013 My headlights say 6v. But the color on the starter is gone so I am going to say its still 6v Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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