gtech636p Posted March 24, 2013 Report Posted March 24, 2013 I've got everything torn down and ready to start a little bit of reassembly. Before I get back to a rolling chasis I figured I would ask about the mounts that are riveted to the frame. When I place the shackle in the mount (without a spring attached to the other end) there is a good bit of movement allowed. These are the original mounts and I was wondering if there should be absolutely no play in them other than the motion caused by the spring flexing. I've played with these shackles on a couples of willys before and have a feeling the answer is no movement at all, but I don't want to indertake the project without knowing for sure. Quote
Dave72dt Posted March 24, 2013 Report Posted March 24, 2013 Leaf springs get longer as loads are placed on them or flexed for rough roads so some movement is required fore and aft. Side to side there should be none. Quote
Dan Babb Posted March 24, 2013 Report Posted March 24, 2013 You're very lucky...mine were totally seized and I had to replace them. Put some fresh lube in the grease fittings and you're done. Quote
48Dodger Posted March 26, 2013 Report Posted March 26, 2013 The bushings that go inside the mounts should be firm. Take the bushing out and check for wall thickness to make sure you don't need to replace it/them. Holding the same position over the course of a long truck life, they tend to wear thru, if not completely wear thru the mount as well. I've also seen long cracks along the bushing. 48D Quote
gtech636p Posted March 27, 2013 Author Report Posted March 27, 2013 Is there a diagram floating around somewhere to see what is going on inside the cast piece? I'm probably describing thingas incorrectly.. If you're looking down the frame rail itself I know the shackle is supposed to move towards and away from you. There is little if any right to left movement, but there is movement in the clockwise and counter-clockwise motion. I've taken the "C" portion of the shackle out, but cannot get the sleve that it screws into out of the cast frame mount. I haven't really tried to see if it can be accessed from behind either... Quote
Merle Coggins Posted March 27, 2013 Report Posted March 27, 2013 Maybe not the best scan, but this might help. Merle Quote
TodFitch Posted March 27, 2013 Report Posted March 27, 2013 I've taken the "C" portion of the shackle out, but cannot get the sleve that it screws into out of the cast frame mount. I haven't really tried to see if it can be accessed from behind either... If I understand what you are trying to describe and the threaded bushing is still in the hanger casting/forging and you were able to pull out the "U"/"C" portion, then that threaded sleeve is very badly worn and must be replaced. Getting them out of the frame mount can be a real. . . well words appropriate to this forum are insufficient... If at all possible, don't do what a spring shop did to me and take a cutting torch and remove the mount from the frame so you can work on it clamped to a bench vise. Took me a bit (like taking the body off the frame) before I could properly repair the damage they did. A good six sided socket and and impact wrench are probably the tools of choice here. Quote
48Dodger Posted March 28, 2013 Report Posted March 28, 2013 (edited) Videos I made. 48D Edited March 28, 2013 by 48dodger Quote
Desotodav Posted March 28, 2013 Report Posted March 28, 2013 I'd forgotten about those great videos of yours Tim. I dropped down to the shed this morning and took these photos... Desotodav Quote
ferdball Posted May 11, 2013 Report Posted May 11, 2013 Great thread yall's, I've learned alot! but I also have more questions! 1. My rear upper brackets (the ones riveted to the frame in above desotodav photo) are totally worn thin on the top. Are these ridiculous to find or is it possible to find a pair with good threads? (in other words I NEED a pair) 2. I have some shackles from a 55-57 and 55 dodge trucks that LOOK exactly the same, and seem to measure correctly. I would think I could just use them as long as I used them in a pair...??? correct? or should I find/buy a pair online from the rare parts etc...??? I'll also assume that the fronts are BAD too, hopefully the way they are set up they wont be ovaled out and I can just get some replacements.. Thanks for any advice you can give... Quote
Desotodav Posted May 11, 2013 Report Posted May 11, 2013 (edited) In answer to your questions ferdball: 1 & 2: I haven't noticed any difference (here in Oz) in the B series rear of the rear spring shackle mount fittings (except in heavier trucks), so the 55-57 (C series?) ones that you have may work if they appear the same dimensions. I dropped down to my shed and checked a few of my spare mounts and it appears that they are all right hand thread - so I guess that there would be no other reason why each side would not be interchangeable. I found a set that I had that had part numbers A5755035 embossed in them, which corresponds with part 13-54-15 'Rear Bracket' in one of my truck parts manuals. Both left and right mounts indicated those same numbers (as does my parts manual) so I would definitely say that they are interchangeable. I haven't seen too many offered for sale on-line over your way though. 3: Based on previous forum discussions, I believe that you will struggle finding the mounts for the rear of the front springs over your way. I do have a few used sets of them spare but I haven't checked on their condition. I believe that a fella who I deal with over here still has a few NOS ones in his stock - but I paid about $45 each for them a while back. I am told that our shackle threads are damaged over time by the lack of attention given to keeping the shackles adjusted correctly. I intend to inspect mine regularly to try to avoid further issues in that area. I replaced both front spring rear mounts and one rear spring rear mount whilst rebuilding my blue 52 truck 'Ernie' and have not had any further issues to date. I've attached a few photos of the ones that I have on my shelf. I have a few more sets still attached to springs that haven't been shown in photos. I have to devise a cheaper freight method of getting stuff over to you guys. Edited May 11, 2013 by Desotodav Quote
John-T-53 Posted May 11, 2013 Report Posted May 11, 2013 Wow, Davin, you've certainly got the mother lode of shackle mounts! Roberts lists new mounts for the rears too: http://robertsmotorparts.com/truck_parts.asp?Action=search&c=Trucks+%2D+Suspension+%26+Drive Quote
ferdball Posted May 12, 2013 Report Posted May 12, 2013 (edited) HOLY COW! that is the mother lode! - So riddle me this... the rubber seal that goes on the shackle before the bushing....... is this NOS correct? I've never seen a NOS set of shackle and bushings come with them? Should I be concerned about not having them on? or should I just build my own out of some fuel/heater hose? I see on some of the modern day options they have them (http://oldpickupparts.com/search.php?srch=shackle) I contacted Jason at the above site and they carry new replacements for the rear bracket too! YEEE HAW! Edited May 12, 2013 by ferdball Quote
Desotodav Posted May 12, 2013 Report Posted May 12, 2013 Yep, the rubber is mounted in a small metal cup and is more or less just a dust seal - it goes on before the bushing. I made mine from hex-head plastic irrigation pipe ends... Quote
Young Ed Posted May 12, 2013 Report Posted May 12, 2013 Yup basically a dust seal I believe a few of mine are pieces of heater hose. Quote
1952B3b23 Posted May 12, 2013 Report Posted May 12, 2013 You may want to check out this place also: http://www.rareparts.com/ That's the company that i got my front leaf spring shackles from and they look to be very good quality and made in the USA. Also the new ones come with the dust seals, so no need to fab your own. -Chris Quote
John-T-53 Posted May 12, 2013 Report Posted May 12, 2013 Rare parts shackle, w/ dust seal. One came with the metal cups and one without. When I inquired about this, they said they were "phasing out the cups". Quote
ferdball Posted May 15, 2013 Report Posted May 15, 2013 (edited) More Expert Help Needed on my front of rear bushings... 48 Doger & Desotosav I'm looking in your direction! So I've taken the bolts out and then used the same threaded bolts to remove the pin but it is IN THERE! I've soaked them for days now in PB Blaster and it's just stripping the threads off bolts when I try to tap them out.... I'm sure I've probably ruined the pins which is fine since I can pick up new ones and judging from the rears they are most likely original. But I'm kind of at a stand still. My next step is to try some heat on the spring/bushing and if that fails? Or maybe just weld a bold in place so I can really "tap" hard!??? Anyone please holler at me if you see something I'm not trying! There is NOT a nut behind it is there? I see no way to get to it other than the two small holes in the frame crossmember..??? ...cant be... in better news!~ I got my gas tank back from the shop and it's going to look good all painted up and I also picked up enough white oak to start on the bed! Mar-k strips showing up tomorrow! Ready to get "frank" back together and on the road! This place is a wealth of knowledge! Thanks everyone! Edited May 15, 2013 by ferdball Quote
Desotodav Posted May 15, 2013 Report Posted May 15, 2013 (edited) You started in the right direction by removing the bolt - the pin is actually slotted where the bolt goes through. There is a hole perfectly placed on the inside of the chassis rail to allow you to get a drift on the rear of the pin and hit it with a 'BFH'. I found that using a chisel (or some sort of wedge) in the slot that tightens up with the bolt will relieve a little tension on the pin and make it slide out easier. Keep up the good work! Edited May 15, 2013 by Desotodav Quote
48Dodger Posted May 15, 2013 Report Posted May 15, 2013 What Davin said. Also note the "clamp" design of the mount where the bolt goes. Work a wedge in (I have and asortment of hardwood wedges I keep handy) and try and get a little more daylight inbetween there. 48D Quote
ggdad1951 Posted May 15, 2013 Report Posted May 15, 2013 X2 what Davin said...I REALLy had to smack mine to get them out...then replaced with new SS.... Quote
ferdball Posted May 16, 2013 Report Posted May 16, 2013 Call me crazy or maybe my truck does not have the same set up but there is not really a way to get to the back side of the front of the rear. the frame crossmember is sealed on all sides, although there is two small holes on the front and back and if you poke your finger in and make a 90º turn there is a hole on the back side of the bracket... ?? So if I ground off the rivets I could get to the other side of the bracket but other than that a punch just wont work.. Just wanted to throw that out there, maybe mines different? I'll keep trying and then weld a good bolt to the pin and use a puller or something.. keep'n on truckin... Quote
48Dodger Posted May 16, 2013 Report Posted May 16, 2013 OK....what truck do you have. And can you post pictures of your crossmember stituation. 48D Quote
ggdad1951 Posted May 16, 2013 Report Posted May 16, 2013 yah, I had holes in mine right behind the pins for a drift punch Quote
Desotodav Posted May 16, 2013 Report Posted May 16, 2013 I don't have any of my trucks here to take photos for you - but then it's a bit after 11pm here now so photos mightn't work too well anyway! I've attached 2 photos for you ferdball that should show you where the holes are located. They are up in the crossmember. First photo (attached) shows the location of the hole in the rear mount of the rear spring. The second photo shows that the mount at the front of the rear spring is also lined up with a crossmember - so access to the that hole should be gained in a similar way as the rear mount. I hope all of that makes sense to you... Quote
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