Brand New To The Group

[Dave]

Hi all, I am new to the group, but it looks like you all know and love your trucks. I have a 57 B200, it's in great shape and all original. I have a fluid leak on a rear wheel, brake fluid or axle seal leak, not sure. I have tried to get the drum off but it won't let go. Any suggestions, I haven' t hit it with a big hammer much, not sure how much force to use. It has a flat head six that runs great, only 2nd gear on the tranny is very touchy. Looking forward to talking with you guys about these trucks and engines.

[Plymouthy Adams]

do not beat with a hammer..beside damage to the axle threads and nut..you could do internal damage to the bearing and hog head per the manual...you will need a good drum puller, usually a very heavy three jaw device..these can be borrowed from you local parts supplier at times..do check there first or any automotive hobby shop in your area...

Edited March 23, 2013 by Plymouthy Adams

[B1B Keven]

Welcome! Post some pics of the truck. '57 is my favorite year!!

[Young Ed]

Welcome. Don't happen to have an extra vertical grill bar do you? I've got a friend that just restored a 57 and he's missing that piece.

[Dave]

Sorry, no extra parts, just what's bolted to the truck. But I do have a 36 dodge 4 door sedan, probably will part that out. So, get a 3 jaw puller and crank it down?

[Scruffy49]

Bolt it on to 3 wheel studs, loosen the main axle nut (leave on so when the tension breaks you don't get clobbered by the puller and drum combo). Tighten the cross bar, smack the arm on the tensioner everytime you walk by it, at least a 10# hammer. Eventually, the drum will let go.

 

Surprised they won't come off, mine sat for 20 years and did not need a puller. This time (19 years later) I'm sure they will.

[Merle Coggins]

  On 3/23/2013 at 1:29 AM, B1B Keven said:

Welcome! Post some pics of the truck. '57 is my favorite year!!

Ditto...

 

  On 3/23/2013 at 2:01 AM, davemarais said:

.... So, get a 3 jaw puller and crank it down?

Not just any 3 jaw puller. You need a hub or drum puller that attaches to the wheel lugs.

[1952B3b23]

Welcome and you're not that far away from me, I live in Wilbraham, MA just outside Springfield. I work with a fellow who lives in Bristol... But any who i would get the proper puller cause it will make life a little easier. Just like the guys before me said post pics cause we sure do love them

[Jeff Balazs]

Welcome to the group.    I looked real hard at a local '57 with a factory V8 and a 9' high side express bed before opting for my 52. I knew at the time it was not a common sighting.....and the engine ran. But there was just too much wrong with it. Extensive cancer, a curiously locked up rear end and a seller that was too anxious ended up putting me off.

But if our earlier Pilothouse trucks are not all that common in the vintage truck scene.........you hardly ever see a '57. A very rare bird indeed.

 

The correct puller is a must. If yours are really stubborn try applying heat instead of beating on it too much. Works like a charm and less chance of damage to the axle internals.

Jeff

[lugnut123]

I loosen the big nut and drove my pickup back and forth a few times. Then I used a puller. Make sure you back your brakes off before you use the puller. That way you don't pull the brake shoes also. good luck  noel

 

welcome to the site. You can get a ton of info here.  pics?/???

Edited March 23, 2013 by lugnut123

[B1B Keven]

And when you reassemble it, use some anti seize on the drum and axle. 

[Scruffy49]

And/or convert the hubs to modern style, not riveted to the drum. Doing this to mine (at least the fronts, forget how the rear mounts, drum over hub or hub over drum like a 60s model) so I don't have to fight them as hard next time the truck needs brake work. Lug studs or bolts will hold it in place just fine. Conversion to modern stud/nut from the old time lug bolts will keep it aligned and make wheel mount/dismount a bit easier.

Edited March 23, 2013 by Scruffy49

[Dave]

Thanks for all the helpful ways to get that drum off the truck.  Now I need some warmer weather, Can't work with gloves on and my hands get numb with out, just 50 would be ok.  I put this one picture up, taken last fall, that's a 1908 steam launch on the trailer. I'll get some more soon.  thanks...Dave

[Frank Ollian]

Can't tell from the picture but it looks like those could be budd wheels, that would make your truck a 300. If it is a 300 the procedure is different and no puller is required.

[Frank Ollian]

Enlarged your profile photo, that looks like a 300.

[Dave]

Well, the VIN number checked out it was a 200. How would I verify? I'm not sure what a budd wheel is, the rear axle is nothing like a smaller truck axle, it sticks completely thru the rim, maybe 5" in diameter and 4 or 5" thru the rim. If the truck where a flat bed then this axle would have duals on it I guess. And there are bolts holding a cover on the end of the axle. Do you know what the procedure for removing the drum is?

[Dave72dt]

The "cover" on the end of the axle comes off first.  It's the axle shaft.  There may be some cone shaped pieces with a split in them under the nuts.  Don't loose them.  something to catch gear oil would be handy as you pull the axle out.  What's inside is similar to a front axle brg setup, using a double nut, maybe a locking tab of some sort, to hold the brg adjustment.  Remove both nuts and tapered roller brg and drum should pull off.  That's the typical setup for that style axle.  Individual parts may be unique to the year or manufacturer.

[Dave]

Thanks for the info, makes sense. I'll get on it soon and let you know how I make out. Can the 200's also have that axle?

[Dave72dt]

Not familiar with the particulars of that year.  i do know in later years, Dodge and others used that style axle in 3/4 ton trucks so it would seem possible.

[Doghouse]

Yes the '57 200's have the full floater axle. Putting one in my '50  1 ton. Should be a 8 3/4 Diff.

Edited March 25, 2013 by Doghouse

[TodFitch]

  On 3/25/2013 at 12:36 AM, Dave72dt said:

The "cover" on the end of the axle comes off first.  It's the axle shaft.  There may be some cone shaped pieces with a split in them under the nuts.  Don't loose them.  something to catch gear oil would be handy as you pull the axle out.  What's inside is similar to a front axle brg setup, using a double nut, maybe a locking tab of some sort, to hold the brg adjustment.  Remove both nuts and tapered roller brg and drum should pull off.  That's the typical setup for that style axle.  Individual parts may be unique to the year or manufacturer.

 

I had that style axle on my '63 D200 way back when. I found that if I removed the wheel from the opposite side that I was going to be working on and set it (the opposite side) as low as possible (drum on ground if you can) then you will be working on the "uphill" side of the axle and you won't lose much, if any, gear lube when you pull the axle shaft.

[Dave]

Great idea, thanks for the help. I'll let you know how I make out.