rubber fuel line

[p24-1953]

is it okay to run a rubber fuel line from the pump to the carb? my old line has a nasty bend in it and i am a little afraid of it having a stress crack. I would like to cut that curve out and replace it with fuel injection line at the bend only. Yalls thoughts?

[RobertKB]

I personally like to run all steel from the fuel pump to the carb. No chance of a burst line and spraying fuel where it's not wanted, like on the manifolds! I would replace the old line with a new steel one.

[randroid]

p24-1953,

Yup, you can do whatever you want with the fuel lines, assuming you bought the right type of hose to accommodate fuel, but please don't park your car next to mine while you do it. You were less than specific about where the bad bend was; at the pump end or the carb end or in between so it's difficult for us to make a suggestion. Just remember that metal tubing is used wherever possible around fuel because it won't melt if it rattles next to something hot, whereas any type of rubber will turn to soup against the head. Use common sense and go for it.

-Randy

[DJ194950]

I agree with randriod as to safety!

If you really use fuel injection fuel hose be aware that is strongly recommended to use the proper type clamps as the line is thicker outside and therefore harder to clamp securely. It MAY be slightly more heat resistant.

They were still fairly reasonable last time i got some from Napa. The counterman did give me a slightly odd look when i told him what i wanted. FUEL injection hose clamps, so he looked them up in his parts book and checked the # on his computer. Seems that he was suprised that they had a box of them in a box on the shelf!

[Don Coatney]

I personally like to run all steel from the fuel pump to the carb. No chance of a burst line and spraying fuel where it's not wanted, like on the manifolds! I would replace the old line with a new steel one.

p24-1953,

Yup, you can do whatever you want with the fuel lines, assuming you bought the right type of hose to accommodate fuel, but please don't park your car next to mine while you do it. You were less than specific about where the bad bend was; at the pump end or the carb end or in between so it's difficult for us to make a suggestion. Just remember that metal tubing is used wherever possible around fuel because it won't melt if it rattles next to something hot, whereas any type of rubber will turn to soup against the head. Use common sense and go for it.

-Randy

I agree with randriod as to safety!

If you really use fuel injection fuel hose be aware that is strongly recommended to use the proper type clamps as the line is thicker outside and therefore harder to clamp securely. It MAY be slightly more heat resistant.

They were still fairly reasonable last time i got some from Napa. The counterman did give me a slightly odd look when i told him what i wanted. FUEL injection hose clamps, so he looked them up in his parts book and checked the # on his computer. Seems that he was suprised that they had a box of them in a box on the shelf!

Nothing more to add sept dont do it.

[desoto1939]

Instead of having a steel line with curves then make a entirely new line but then but in 90 degee brass connectors adn they will need to be double flared.

This way you can then route the gas line any way that you want but do Not, again Do NOT use rubber hose.

Rich Hartung

[bamfordsgarage]

Either I'm missing something obvious and am driving rolling time bombs every day, or perhaps all these dire warnings are a bit overblown.

I've been using rubber lines in my vintage car fuel lines for years with zero problems. I use off-the-roll fuel line from the auto parts stores and either modern hose clamps or some period equivalent. Sometimes with a sealer, sometimes not. There is usually some rubber line between the gas tank and the steel line up to the front, and always some rubber near the carb.

Of all the cars so equipped, my '47 Dodge with mechanical pump has the highest fuel pressure, another car runs on 0.5 to 1.5 air pressure in the tank (from a hand pump — it used to be exhaust pressure) and the other four are gravity feed only. Never any leaks or self-disconnecting hoses. Obviously one has to route the lines carefully and heat-shield as required, but really — this is actual rubber fuel line I'm using and how is that intrinsically unsafe?

[Don Coatney]

Either I'm missing something obvious and am driving rolling time bombs every day, or perhaps all these dire warnings are a bit overblown.

You should be OK as you fully understand what you are dealing with. I suggest you read the thread linked below.

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=29253

[p24-1953]

Just to clarify, that fire was not caused by a rubber fuel line, but rather a cheap plastic filter that split along the seam, (the insurance thinks)

I am still planning to run steel line from the pump to the carb. I was just thinking about running rubber at the curve leading into the carb itself, so it should be protected from the heat, but i will reconsider after these discussions.

[RobertKB]

I am still planning to run steel line from the pump to the carb. I was just thinking about running rubber at the curve leading into the carb itself, so it should be protected from the heat, but i will reconsider after these discussions.

If you do not already have one, buy a decent small pipe bender and the curves are not a problem. I have bent lines for two of my cars without any problems.

[Guest P15-D24]

Rubber will melt just like plastic.

[wallytoo]

Either I'm missing something obvious and am driving rolling time bombs every day, or perhaps all these dire warnings are a bit overblown.

this.

really, it's amazing that one can purchase rubber fuel line at any location, given how unsafe it is.

i've used it in my cj for 20 years. rubber line runs from the fuel filter above the valve cover, to the pressure regulator on the driver's side inner fender, then to the carb inlet fitting. true, a hard line runs from the pump up to the fuel filter, but that's it. the rubber sections pass above the manifolds.

i also have hard line in my b-1-fa, from the pump to the carb. there is a short rubber flex line from the frame to the pump.

i've also seen cracked steel lines that weep/spew gas, so it isn't as if steel lines are infalliable. routine maintenance, periodic inspection of system integrity will ensure safe operation no matter which material is used.

wally

[Plymouthy Adams]

most all work fine and can work for a long time..but..one failure can equal to one heck of a disaster is what most folks on here are implying...is it worth the risk given there is an alternative...you do what you want as I am sure most on here do anyway...this is just a clearing house...a myriad of ideas, thoughts and suggestions..

[Robert Horne]

It seems rubber does not last very long now, as compared to years ago.

Tires dryrot is 5 or 6 years..

I had a problem near the fuel tank, drawing

air, where a short piece of rubber fuel line attached 2 steel lines. The

small 3 inch rubber line seemed ok, until I bought a new small piece to

replace it. The old line had hardened, and it was not very old. It may

have been at the auto parts store for some time also..

I do not keep much rubber line in supply anymore.

I moved my fuel filter near the fuel tank. If it does leak, it is not near the

engine anyway......

[wallytoo]

..but..one failure can equal to one heck of a disaster is what most folks on here are implying...is it worth the risk given there is an alternative....

what's the alternative? rubber can degrade, steel can crack and rust. both can leak. rubber cannot rust, steel won't melt at temperatures seen surrounding the engine. brake systems use both rubber and steel. i've seen about equal failures for each. just as lousy a feeling, regardless of the material.

[Plymouthy Adams]

alternative..not to use so much rubber..also..fuel pressure drop will be a side effect of the all rubber line..

the fuel pump to carb is a single joint item when bolted together..there is no flex here..thus the safe use of the fixed rigid line..the tank and chassis is affixed on the same plane so to speak....again the rigid line..only the short rubber connector as a 'soft" spot in the system that connects the two rigid lines...again..your call your own ideas of what should be...I tend to trust with the engineers of the system as built

[wallytoo]

..I tend to trust with the engineers of the system as built

right.

and how about the lack of factory installed seatbelts in the dodges and plymouths of this era? after all, the engineers designed it. does that make them safer than trucks/cars in which owners have added a seatbelt system?

[Plymouthy Adams]

lets grab another straw from the sinking ship....you need to stay focused on the question and not try to yet muddy the question with facts from yet another completely different feature from an era from the future..as I said...do as you wish or think best..just merely posted there are alternatives...never once did I say there is JUST ONE WAY..

anyone else see a need to throw an apple into the orange barrel?

[wallytoo]

my point was that engineering does evolve. modern cars do use rubber fuel lines, as did older vehicles.

but, you are correct. most on here are going to use what they want to in any event. i believe you are incorrect in asserting that rubber lines have a higher failure rate than steel lines, and that (the failure) is the bottom line.

[Plymouthy Adams]

engineering does evolve and to that end it is a good thing..I love the computer driven engines..but I can in all honestly say that all the leaks I have ever fixed have been in the rubber connection sections of the fuel line with the one exception being a bad o-ring in the quick connect..we do have rubber lines today this is for sure but please do look real close to the structure of these reinforced rubber lines of multi ply and the very clamps of today are the type that does not cut into the rubber by either sharp edges or worm drive straps...we even have braided fuel lines for areas of max flex when transitioning from the frame to the fixed postion of the engine.. The use of stainless lines is predominate today, the high pressure plastics are also used but mostly away from areas of high heat..I also will point out that the modern metal lines used today in the high pressure fuel system has expansion bends placed to prevent the very fatigue that would be an issue over time..so yes..we evolve...and I like to think for the better..

Todays fuels are also problematic to the fuel sytems also..use the old stuff here you accelerting the eventual breakdown..

[ssnowden]

This is an interesting thread as I'm looking at what to do after I complete my brake system upgrade. I'm using the copper-nickel brake lines and love how they bend and are very forgiving and don't kink. 

 

I was thinking of using the same type of line for the fuel as well. It's kind of the best of both of the convenience of the rubber and the safety of metal lines. Have any of you used this for the fuel lines? 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/25ft-roll-copper-Nickel-Fuel-Line-5-16-chevy-ford-dodge-hot-rod-street-rod/251270792101?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D1565574562683730094%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D310336217522%26

[desoto1939]

Here is another question about fuel lines.  The original fule line in my 39 Desoto is a bent line that has two bends link in a French Curve one at the bottom by the FP coming up and then the opposite curve to go into the Carb.

 

I was thinking of make a new line byt with 90 bends with the brass connecters.  But then got to thinking is the original style with the bend made this was so that when the  engine twist or moves the fuel line and then also take the stress of the slight movement VS if the lines where all straight then you do not get any flex and then have a possibility of the line fatigueing and getting a break of leak.

 

Does anyone have any opinions on this topic.

 

Rich HArtung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[desoto1939]

my point was that engineering does evolve. modern cars do use rubber fuel lines, as did older vehicles.

but, you are correct. most on here are going to use what they want to in any event. i believe you are incorrect in asserting that rubber lines have a higher failure rate than steel lines, and that (the failure) is the bottom line.

 

 

Yes they use rubber lines in the modern cars, but they try to keep the length of the rubber fuel line to a minimum.  In our old cars that is a very long run up from the front of the engine to the top of the manifold and then the rubber line needs to be secured so it does not have any opportunity to make contact with the manifold and then melt the line and then cause the fuel to be pushed on to the hot engine and then the car catches fire and you lsot your car all for the saving of a few bucks.

 

When you have a very short run the the hard metal line is clamped to be stationary and the rubber gives a little for some flex but not the entire run from the gas tank upto the carb or fuel injectors.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[Dave72dt]

Those curves will allow an easier connection to the fittings than straight lines and allows for variations in distance whereas straight lines would need to be exact length and more difficult to assemble.  Vibration will break a straight , taut line and the curve will dissipate most of that.  Vibration and body flex is the reason most firewall mounted master cyl have a curly cue  in the line.

[TodFitch]

This is an interesting thread as I'm looking at what to do after I complete my brake system upgrade. I'm using the copper-nickel brake lines and love how they bend and are very forgiving and don't kink. 

 

I was thinking of using the same type of line for the fuel as well. It's kind of the best of both of the convenience of the rubber and the safety of metal lines. Have any of you used this for the fuel lines?

I used copper-nickel alloy tubing for both my brake lines and for the fuel line from the tank to the engine compartment. Not the same brand as you linked to. I got mine at a brake supply company back in the '90s.

 

Been on the car for at least 15 years now with no signs of problems. But given the fuel additives they keep changing around I guess there is no guarantee that it will be impervious to all gasoline mixes.