Question RE: grill 'parking lights'

[pflaming]

I had not run wires for the grill park lights, in hopes I might find a grill. I now have some temp lights. BUT, what wire goes to them. I have the wireing diagram for the dash and engine but no reference to the park lights.

AND: I put the OE master switch in line but cannot get it to work. (1) it may be faulty, but how does one test it? (2) It should work in-line, because it was 'in-line' of sorts by the location on the MC. Or am I mistaken? I hate to take it out for obvious reasons.

Always something little takes up a lot of time, especially when it's 105 outside the shop.

Edited August 9, 2012 by pflaming

[55 Fargo]

I had not run wires for the grill park lights, in hopes I might find a grill. I now have some temp lights. BUT, what wire goes to them. I have the wireing diagram for the dash and engine but no reference to the park lights.

Always something little takes up a lot of time, especially when it's 105 outside the shop.

On the light switch,1 terminal for park lights, 1 for headlights, 1 for tailightsand instrument panel lights.

What wire you be talkin bout?

If you don't have it, wire 1 in, infact, use a universal 7 wire signal stat switch,and wire in signals with dual filament sockest in park light housings,or on your temp lights. That way you have it all,park lights, brake and signal lamps, all working together in a harness.....

[pflaming]

My light switch has six terminals disignated accordingly: D = Panel light switch; B = incoming line from the amp gauge; A = to lower terminal post at radiator; R = taillight harness; H= to B post on the dimmer; and B = power to the brake light.

So then post A might be for the parking lights to come on with the tail lights. But then are they on all the time.

I have a seven wire turn signal and it's all wired in, not problem there.

[55 Fargo]

Paul are these ring or bullit terminals?

I would wire into "A" terminal if it were mine, assuming this is a 2 position switch.

That way you have the park and tail lights together.Then a further pull, gets you the head lamps.....

[pflaming]

Paul are these ring or bullit terminals? I would wire into "A" terminal if it were mine, assuming this is a 2 position switch. That way you have the park and tail lights together.Then a further pull, gets you the head lamps....

(1) Bullet; (2) It is a two position switch. Wired thus, won't the park lights stay on when the switch goes to the second stage? I would think so, because the tail lights don't turn off.

"A" goes to the front lower terminal block so the park lights may connect there and internally the switch allows the tail lights to stay on and the park lights to go off. Will wire it that way and let the switch tell me what happens. Nice quiet early morning project that won't wake anyone.

[55 Fargo]

Paul, these older Mopar switches, are designed to allow the park lamps and tail lights to illuminate on 1st position, the 2nd position is for the head lights and tail lights only.

If you want the park light to illuminate on 1st position, and 2nd position, you may be able to wire the "A" terminal wire to the "R" terminal with the tail lamp circuit.....

[pflaming]

I do not want the park lights on when the headlights are on. Will connect as you suggest and report back.

[Merle Coggins]

A = to lower terminal post at radiator;

That is your parking lamp terminal. The 3 terminal junction on either side of the radiator is for your head lamps and parking lamps. High beam, low beam, and park lamp. And as has been said, the switch is set to only power the parking lamps in the first position. When the head lights are on the parking lights go out.

Merle

[pflaming]

Great news! The engineering in these trucks is so simple yet quite sophisticated.

The panel light switch is almost unnecessary. Isn't it's only function is to turn off the gauge lights? Mine is problematic so I'm leaving in the dash but bi-passing it when wired. OR maybe use it for the dome light, h,m,m,m,m

[HanksB3B]

More than likely your switch just needs a little TLC. Bead blast the screw posts first. If that doesn't solve the problem, go deeper. First try spraying an electronic cleaner into it and if that doesn't work, take it apart to clean it. Remember, almost everything on our trucks can be rebuilt.

Hank

[pflaming]

Bead blast the screw posts first. If that doesn't solve the problem, go deeper. First try spraying an electronic cleaner into it and if that doesn't work, take it apart to clean it.

I sprayed the cleaner but the bead blast is new to me, will give it a second chance. I'm learning that mechanics isn't like horseshoes, close doesn't count!

[Jeff Balazs]

Hey Paul;

As much as I hate to admit it .... ........ Hank is right.

I just went through this the other day with my wiper switch. I took it apart and cleaned it carefully and BINGO! it works just fine.

Jeff

[Plymouthy Adams]

contraire, in horsehoes close does count..you get fewer points is all..

[pflaming]

I guess I stated that unclearly, yes close counts in horseshoes but close in electrical does not give one dimmer lights.

[Dave72dt]

I think Hank is from that "been there, done that" school. Makes him right a lot.

[pflaming]

Hank and a few others are the personification of an old addage: "A pretty girl has to kiss a lot of frogs to find a prince"!. We either learn from our mistakes or we quit. If one is too afraid to make or admit to a mistake, then that person will probably quit.

I would guess that I have redone every 'assembly' three times. So I calculate that I could now redo another pilot-house in nine months. No complaints on this coast.

[Plymouthy Adams]

owning an old vehicle like these is not only fun but a lesson in patienece and an education in appliced mechanics..you either learn or you get healthy walking a lot...or the local shop gets to vacation in the Bahamas quite often..

[48Dodger]

I think Hank is from that "been there, done that" school. Makes him right a lot.

Oh great Dave.....now he's gonna load more pictures.....

48D

[HanksB3B]

Thanks for the funny stuff, I needed a laugh for sure, (really hot & humid with two legs full of mosquito bites) but Tim you don't have to worry about me posting any pictures, I'm in New York and have not figured out how to work a direct link from photobucket into my posts (yet) with my android.

I miss my truck, my mountain bike (and oh my wife too),

Hank

The water temp is 78 and the ocean is beautiful. My kindergarten buddy Pete and I will be doing some fluke fishing tomorrow

Edited August 11, 2012 by HanksB3B

[Jeff Balazs]

Hank

Have fun fishing......remember to play nice.....and take a nap or you won't get to watch Sheriff John.

Jeff

[pflaming]

I guess I'm kinda 'slow' but today I realized the turn signal field is fully independent of the head light / tail light field thus the dual filament bulbs. So now I'm to connect the tail light to power. The headlights come from the amp and thier fuse is in the switch. If I take the turn signals from the amp, left on they could drain the battery, so I think I will take them from the ignition switch. Is that the proper connection?

[MBF]

I would hook them to the accessory post on the ignition switch so that they can't be accidentily left on- key off = no directionals. I'd also suggest a battery disconnect switch (and use it) especially if you're parking the truck in a structure. Better safe than sorry. Mike

[ggdad1951]

I would hook them to the accessory post on the ignition switch so that they can't be accidentily left on- key off = no directionals. I'd also suggest a battery disconnect switch (and use it) especially if you're parking the truck in a structure. Better safe than sorry. Mike

I've seen this come up before. With new wiring is this really needed or ? I do plan on a fuse block at some point this winter while I dream of warmer times to help with potential issues.

[Young Ed]

I know a lot of guys use them. I don't. I do disconnect my batteries during winter storage but during the summer they are left alone.