Lou Earle Posted September 29, 2011 Report Posted September 29, 2011 well,put the old taxi back onthe road fter a long rest. The driveshaft adn universals are pretty well done in. I have tried to find the post about the new parrts needed for "modern" universal joint conversions. Would someone please direct em to the post or re post the info? thanks Lou Quote
55 Fargo Posted September 29, 2011 Report Posted September 29, 2011 well,put the old taxi back onthe road fter a long rest. The driveshaft adn universals are pretty well done in.I have tried to find the post about the new parrts needed for "modern" universal joint conversions. Would someone please direct em to the post or re post the info? thanks Lou 1946-48 Canadian Plymouth or Dodge D25, have modern type u--joints and yokes as did Desoto and Chrysler for the same years. They utilize a Precision #302, which is a readily available u-joint from any parts store. Now the thing is to either get those parts, or go with some type of modern conversion.... Quote
55 Fargo Posted September 29, 2011 Report Posted September 29, 2011 Try this thread, http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=15551&highlight=modern+u-joints Quote
Lou Earle Posted September 29, 2011 Author Report Posted September 29, 2011 thanks for replies but I was looking for the thread or pic that had an invoice stating allth parts needed from spicer??? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 29, 2011 Report Posted September 29, 2011 Lou..pinged it first search..see post #11 this thread http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=11690&highlight=spicer%2C+driveshaft Quote
RobertKB Posted September 29, 2011 Report Posted September 29, 2011 Here is a picture of the type of "modern" driveshaft Rockwood is talking about found in quite a few Canadian P15's and the Plymouth based Dodge D25. I have one on my '48 Dodge D25 and I have another one on a parts car. If anyone is interested, PM or email me. You would have to have the correct differential yoke as well but I have those also. I believe I will be getting access to another one from a hot rodder as well. They should be a direct bolt in for the ball and trunnion once the yoke is replaced. Quote
Jim Yergin Posted September 29, 2011 Report Posted September 29, 2011 This is the information Pete Anderson (Blueskies) posted that I used to have one made for my P12. Jim Yergin Driveshaft parts.pdf Quote
55 Fargo Posted September 30, 2011 Report Posted September 30, 2011 Brought home a 48 Chrysler drive shaft tonight. This is Canadian, and has modern type u-joints on both ends, Lou should I mail this down to you. Post pics later, would be too long I would think anyways Quote
jgreg53 Posted December 22, 2021 Report Posted December 22, 2021 I bought the u joint kit for my 48 Plymouth from AB. The cross pin came out easily. I had a local shop press the new one in. Tried to put it all back together and the pin was swollen. Rollers and balls would not fit. Should the pin or the hole been heated? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 22, 2021 Report Posted December 22, 2021 the pin would have to be extremely hot to have SWOLLEN to a point of too large...sounds like a poorly made unit from the start. Quote
Bryan Posted December 22, 2021 Report Posted December 22, 2021 2 hours ago, jgreg53 said: I bought the u joint kit for my 48 Plymouth from AB. The cross pin came out easily. I had a local shop press the new one in. Tried to put it all back together and the pin was swollen. Rollers and balls would not fit. Should the pin or the hole been heated? I looked thru the manual. Doesn't say anything about trouble with the rollers or balls. Most of the discussion is about the boot. Only other thing is making sure the cross pin has no more than .006 difference of ends sticking out. Quote
jgreg53 Posted December 23, 2021 Report Posted December 23, 2021 What about stretching the boot? Can't seem to attach both ends. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 23, 2021 Report Posted December 23, 2021 this is usually the end of a boot...they will get to a point stretch yields to a tear... Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 23, 2021 Report Posted December 23, 2021 most are till they rip.....just saying more have remarked on ripped boots than successful installs over the bearings..word of caution only.... Quote
Sniper Posted December 23, 2021 Report Posted December 23, 2021 Well, if the pin pressed into the shaft then either the shop chingered up the ends or the rollers and balls are the issue. I dial caliper would left you measure the pin and see if it's been mushroomed. Quote
Bryan Posted December 23, 2021 Report Posted December 23, 2021 Wonder if there would be a way to find a properly sized CV zip boot that could be adapted? Not saying this is it but same idea... Amazon.com: Beck Arnley 103-0228 CV Joint Boot Kit : Automotive Quote
Young Ed Posted December 23, 2021 Report Posted December 23, 2021 I did exactly that last fall. I had to cut I believe 2 rows off the small end and 1 off the big. Was hard to do but I managed to push it through the bell and out the other side. Reused my clamps and reassembled the bearings. Can't say how long it'll last as I only did it a couple weeks before winter storage but they seemed nice and flexible and I believe they'll last. Dorman 614-001 Uni-Fit C.V. Joint Boot Kit Outer up to 3.58 In. Diameter Compatible with Select Models https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000C13Q6W/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_3YPG8S339C5C3N073XPC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 1 Quote
jgreg53 Posted December 23, 2021 Report Posted December 23, 2021 I'm thinking about warming the boot with either hot water or a hair dryer make it more pliable. Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted December 23, 2021 Report Posted December 23, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, Plymouthy Adams said: most are till they rip.....just saying more have remarked on ripped boots than successful installs over the bearings..word of caution only.... I serviced the driveshaft last year and was going to replace both boots. But after struggling with the first one before finally getting it installed I had second thoughts about the other old boot. It had a split in it so I applied fusing silicon tape to the split as a bandaid. It is still intact but the new boot now is split. I think I'll try the off-road motorcycle gaiters this time....cut to fit then clamp in place. https://p15-d24.com/topic/55542-shock-gaiters-as-drive-shaft-boots/#comment-595919 Edited December 23, 2021 by Sam Buchanan 1 Quote
Sniper Posted December 23, 2021 Report Posted December 23, 2021 That is the issue with NOS rubber stuff, they age on the shelf. Quote
48ply1stcar Posted December 23, 2021 Report Posted December 23, 2021 (edited) On 9/29/2011 at 12:19 PM, Lou Earle said: well,put the old taxi back onthe road fter a long rest. The driveshaft adn universals are pretty well done in. I have tried to find the post about the new parrts needed for "modern" universal joint conversions. Would someone please direct em to the post or re post the info? thanks Lou I didn't realize how old this post is, maybe my response will help others. This what you might want, this bolts right up to transmission or rear axle. This is what was used to connect my newly made driveshaft to the transmission. Also check ou the ideas in a thread I started. I eventually went with a Cherokee rear axle and had a driveshaft made. Edited December 23, 2021 by 48ply1stcar I didn't realize how old this post is, maybe my response will help others. Quote
jgreg53 Posted December 24, 2021 Report Posted December 24, 2021 So I got her back together and the u joint is noisy. Quote
Bryan Posted December 24, 2021 Report Posted December 24, 2021 29 minutes ago, jgreg53 said: So I got her back together and the u joint is noisy. In the manual it says the pin has to be centered within .006". Quote
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