Wheel Swap

[hd_lonewolf]

What modern wheels can be use on a 1950 B2B?

[moparmonkey]

Just about anything with a 5x4.5" (5x114.3) pattern will work. Pretty much all the mopar rims from the 60's and 70's will fit, as long as they're the "large" bolt pattern. Ford Mustang rims, right up to present day too, including all the 5 spokes designs (cobra, cobra R etc). Only issue with the wider rims will be backspacing, modern rims over about 6-7" wide will probably have too much backspace, but it doesn't hurt to check.

Biggest issue I see if you're still running the stock brakes is the stud for hanging the rims off of when you start the lug bolts, those will have to be removed.

Edited August 5, 2011 by moparmonkey

[hd_lonewolf]

Thanks,

Spent most of a morning in the junkyard looking for something. Lots with the right bolt pattern but too wide for the front. Maybe a 15" instead of a 16?

Just about anything with a 5x4.5" (5x114.3) pattern will work. Pretty much all the mopar rims from the 60's and 70's will fit, as long as they're the "large" bolt pattern. Ford Mustang rims, right up to present day too, including all the 5 spokes designs (cobra, cobra R etc). Only issue with the wider rims will be backspacing, modern rims over about 6-7" wide will probably have too much backspace, but it doesn't hurt to check.

Biggest issue I see if you're still running the stock brakes is the stud for hanging the rims off of when you start the lug bolts, those will have to be removed.

[NiftyFifty]

A set off a Dodge half ton work just fine if you have front brake conversion...probably without too. I have a set of white "ralley" rims I bought and just painted but came off an 85 1/2 ton. I tried jeep rims bu they wouldn't fit the front hub on the rotor, so I had to go to truck tires...you may find the same with a car rim if you have done this...FYI

[48Dodger]

Still a lot of 73 and up A body mopars out there that have large bolt pattern. Seems a lot of people over look this fact, when digging in the yards. Most are 15 x 7 if found stock.

48D

Edited August 6, 2011 by 48dodger

[texas275]

Has anyone actually been able to use modern wheels on these old trucks?

My original wheels are a long, long, way from being able to have tires mounted on them and I need to get some shoes on the ground. I can get a set of Ford Exploder/Ranger wheels or Jeep wheels for 100.00 a set, but I would hate to buy them and they not work.

I have searched and seen where several have said modern wheels should work, or may work, but has anyone mounted any and are driving on them?

[Plymouthy Adams]

lot of the A-bodies got 5 on 4" bolt patterns except for the larger V8 verisons...they normally got a nice 8 /34 gear and standard 5 x 4.5 patterns..these are usually 14 inch also..as will be the Aspen/Volare wheels..the A-body replacements...now the later years in larger body cars, (think diplomat, Gran Fury and 5th AVe) will be an excellent source..early Dodge vans also were 5 on 4.5 and will be 15's Dakota 15's are still nice source..the early 2.5 four cyclinders I think came with 14 inch wheels...

beauty is today's 17 and some 18's are still 5 on 4.5 pattern...I just bought a beautiful set of Status R/T factory wheels with centers and lugs for 70.00, they are 17 and direct subsititute in wheel height with the 65 series tire as the 16's with 70's which give me a direct drivetrain x-fer for a correct speedo output, my car is one that has no speedo drive anywhere

[catfishcuz]

A lot of spoked trailer wheels are 5 lug 4.5 inch bolt pattern and you can get them pretty reasonably priced at a tractor supply type of store.

[ggdad1951]

speaking for the 6 bolt pattern owners...I tried for 6 months to find a modern rim....to no avail.

[Young Ed]

A lot of spoked trailer wheels are 5 lug 4.5 inch bolt pattern and you can get them pretty reasonably priced at a tractor supply type of store.

I've seen some claims that those trailer wheels don't hold up to the stress of turning for the front wheels. BS? Maybe I don't know

[Plymouthy Adams]

correct Ed, they are not to be mounted on a car..not DOT approved except for trailer...even the rubber is not to mounted on a car rim either..on some very odd size car application these size tires are NLA or import at high price only..these tires could well do the job size wise but get into an accident where tire failure could be an issue..they gonna fry you at the stake..

[bach4660]

I used a wheel spacer bolt pattern changer. It added 1" to the width but with a backspaced rim it all added up to looking good. (fargo 1/2 ton)

on my dodge 1 ton with the 6 lug, I ended up getting the powerwagon rims from Stockton as nothing fit that pattern

[texas275]

lot of the A-bodies got 5 on 4" bolt patterns except for the larger V8 verisons...they normally got a nice 8 /34 gear and standard 5 x 4.5 patterns..these are usually 14 inch also..as will be the Aspen/Volare wheels..the A-body replacements...now the later years in larger body cars, (think diplomat, Gran Fury and 5th AVe) will be an excellent source..early Dodge vans also were 5 on 4.5 and will be 15's Dakota 15's are still nice source..the early 2.5 four cyclinders I think came with 14 inch wheels...

beauty is today's 17 and some 18's are still 5 on 4.5 pattern...I just bought a beautiful set of Status R/T factory wheels with centers and lugs for 70.00, they are 17 and direct subsititute in wheel height with the 65 series tire as the 16's with 70's which give me a direct drivetrain x-fer for a correct speedo output, my car is one that has no speedo drive anywhere

Did you have any rubbing issues with the wider (7 or 8 inch) rimms or the deeper back space?

[Plymouthy Adams]

no...I do not, but one must consider the builds I am doing..I use axles a bit wider so I can use these positive offset modern aluminum wheels....this includes the front suspension on the vehicles I sub frame...so these are all pre-planned with the width and offsets considered way before the first cut is made..

however..there are a plenty of stock later model axles that will drop in with a bit of work on the perches and addressing the e-brakes...I have been very mfortunate to mix and match axles, backing plates etc for larger brakes, adapting much later single pull cables to the e-brakes etc etc just by waling about the j-yard with a tape and making notes of what may or may not suit my particualr application.

I do not use the 8 inch models and my only experience with these is the recent build of the 48 Ply Bz Cp where the upgrade is 2004 Dakota components..stock Dakota mags are 6 lug 8 inch running 245/65/16 wheel tire combo..the PO however had gone one size down and used 235/70/16 and they fill the wheel wells just great as far as depth but rather too close to the rear fenders for my liking and the front fenders they are just at the wheel opening maybe 1/2 plus...BUT..as I have already changed the front suspension to 5 lug pattern the use of the car wheels of modern variety is perfect..the ones I am using are 6.5 wide and 5 1/8 deep..(Dakota was 5.250 deep sat 8 wide) so only 1/8 inch difference..the width of the 8 is all on the outside of the offset and by using the 6.5 I loose all the rubber sticking out of the fender wells for a very nice fitting wheel with plenty of room and yet look fat and full...I have two options here at the house now..16's with the 75 series tire with a .2 MPH error at 60MPH or 17 inch wheel and dead on the money..both sets are factory aluminum 5 spoke mags..

You can get the larger stock steel rims of the 70-eary 90's and get just what you want in width of rim and still be able to use a full wheel cover..stock dog dish is out however. There are a ton of components to choose from..start first to one that appeals to your eye..then work the logistics to making use of it..some are flat out of the question..some are a direct fit and some are a fit with just a bit of work. Big big problem with some of the late 80's and up aluminum wheels is the small wheel opening..well..these make it rough for front wheel due to the hub but these can be machined out and not interfer with the concentric fit of the wheel as mopar stayed concentric and same..once machined they can also be slightly flattened at the center if crowned to install spinners or bolt on wheel caps to cover the unsightly wheel hub..I have a set I did this way and am most pleased with the looks..I have torq thrust adapters and drilled and tapped the wheel so to mount nicely.

Basically all I am saying is look, measure and study what is needed and if it is doable or worth it in your opinion..I do not expect eveyone to accept or even like what I build or the share my taste..but hey..there is plenty out there to choose from and you only have to please yourself..

If you have a particular build/wheel etc in mind send me a PM..will see if I have on hand here what I need to measure and see if it will work..

[texas275]

My plan is to go with some chrome reverse/moon type wheels and caps in the future, or maybe just the originals when I get to that point. I intend on keeping the front and rear ends stock, but right now I am looking for a cheap way to get usable, drivable, local wheels and tires to continue with my rebuild.

Thats why I was asking if the modern wheels with the 7 inchish back space would work.

Maybe one day when I grow up (my wife says it will never happen) I'll try changing rear ends, and front clips, etc. This is my first up frame off, every bolt out, sandblast everything restore so I'm not changing too much from original.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Summit Racing has an online site you can visit and check out ther chrome smoothies they sell..availave in 7 and 8 width and also various offsets to match as close as possible you stock application..

as for the modern wheels to fit...look at the late 70's through very early 90's rear wheel drive cars. These were not greatly offset as todays cars that have flat hubs compared to the combo hubs of the older period..

[Scruffy49]

I know for a beyond a shadow of a doubt fact that 1948-84 wheels fit the 1/2 tons, I have 1978 4x4 Ramcharger wheels on my 49. L'il Red Express rims on my 69 D100, have fit them to the 49 w/o issue as well. LT235/75R15 tires on the L'il Red donor wheels, 7.00-15 front, 7.50-15 rears on the Ramcharger wheels.

Ranger 14"/15" steelies fit and have the extra holes for the hanger studs.

Ranger alloys fit but you'd need to convert to modern studs/nuts, the stock set up is too short and too fat (heads won't seat).

Boneyards should still have plenty of 1970s truck rims. Chevy and Ford full sized 5 lug wheels work on PH era 3/4 tons... as do some Jeep, 5 on 5, some were 5 on 5.5.

Edited October 16, 2012 by Scruffy49

[texas275]

Thats what I was needing to know. Thank you very much.

[1952B3b23]

Summit Racing has an online site you can visit and check out ther chrome smoothies they sell..availave in 7 and 8 width and also various offsets to match as close as possible you stock application..

as for the modern wheels to fit...look at the late 70's through very early 90's rear wheel drive cars. These were not greatly offset as todays cars that have flat hubs compared to the combo hubs of the older period..

The Summit Racing smoothies (7" wide) are exactly the wheels that i bought for my '52 half ton and they fit without any problems. I can dig up the part number for them when i get out of work.

-Chris

[1952B3b23]

FYI here's the part number for my wheels from Summit, WVI-13-571204.

-Chris

[Jim Roach]

Just checked, the same wheel size 16X7 is $999.95 each:eek:

[olddodgeguy]

I just checked at Summit's web site. The same wheel in 16x7 from Wheel Vintuques was listed as $118.95. That's still pricey though!!! Mike

[HanksB3B]

This thread is definately lacking something...Pictures Please...

Hank

[Dave72dt]

My plan is to go with some chrome reverse/moon type wheels and caps in the future, or maybe just the originals when I get to that point. I intend on keeping the front and rear ends stock, but right now I am looking for a cheap way to get usable, drivable, local wheels and tires to continue with my rebuild.

Thats why I was asking if the modern wheels with the 7 inchish back space would work.

That kind of backspace will put the rear tires into the bed and the fronts rubbing the springs and you won't be able to turn the tires. With a wider than stock wheel track you probably could use one of the more modern wheels. Unless you intend to do some major swapping of parts, you'll have to work with the clearance you have. If you have a set of those 7inchish or even one, put one on and check clearance.

On a side note, not all modern vehicles have that massive backspacing. My daughter's Taurus for example has only about a 3 inch backspacing and near neutral offset.

Edited October 18, 2012 by Dave72dt

[Plymouthy Adams]

the deepest factory wheel I have messed with in modern aluminum style have a backset of 5 1/4 inches and that is with a 8 inch bead and a truck wheels..(Dakota)...now the car wheels are a bit different but still the backset per my measurement is 5 1/8 inch with a 6.5 inch bead..the difference is that the wheel on the inside of the fender will set basically in the exact same place as the 8 inch but the outer lip will be 1.5 inches less in width..the part that stick out toward the feender lip...Now if you are not beyond the concept of spacers..you can do the math and check the fit for any wheel that would strike your fancy. I cannot recommend spacers as my build uses a wider rear gear that when these positved backset wheels are used the are full fendered meat...my rear track on the bz cp at this minute is 62.5 inches..(center tread to center tread with 235/70R16's) now I will lose a bit of the track as the 6.5 wide rims go on..but not a great amount beyond stock track but again..with a modern wider rear axle..now before anyone goes out and grabs some late model wheels one critical aspect here to keep in mind is the front hub..though the concertric alignment of the hub has stayed the same...the hubs themselves are a flat mace unit as there is no outer bearing and cone...now..granted if you are adventurous you can yet adapt and overcome by milling out the center without damage to tyhe concentric ring and install these wheels..but yet another problem will now need be addressed..how to cover the the front hub..guess one has a number of options here but I simply had the slighly crowned cneter milled flat to the diameter of the spinner adapter I chose to mount..of course you can use just a bolt on capr..your call..once the cneter is milled..you can fit the cap, mark and drill, then tap the holes and bolt the covers in place...

the look you want can be had but only if you see a modern wheel you just got to have...