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Posted
Get some of the strip magnet with adhesive back. Stick it to the bottom side of the wrench racks. That should be enough to hold them in the drawers.

Merle

Will having 2 adhesive backings effect it? Because the wrench racks also come with it.

Posted

I have one of these wrench organizers in one of my roll-away boxes. In another I just toss the wrenches in. As I am the only one who works out of my tool boxes I usually remember where everything is but not always.

I keep all engine tools in one drawer, electrical tools in another drawer, screw drivers in a couple of drawers, pliers in a couple of drawers, pipe wrenches and pipe taps and dies in a heavy tool drawer along with hammers and such. Micrometers, calipers, and other delicate tools are in a drawer by themselves, I think you get the idea.

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Posted (edited)
Don did you research pozi driv screws yet?

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. Good link (not kink) with lots of information.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives

Pozidriv

Screws with the Pozidriv head.The Pozidriv, sometimes misspelled Pozidrive, screw drive is an improved version of the Phillips screw drive. It is jointly patented by the Phillips Screw Company and American Screw Company. The name is thought to be an abbreviation of positive drive. Its advantage over Phillips drives is its decreased likelihood to cam out, which allows greater torque to be applied. In ANSI standards it is referred to as type IA. It is very similar to, and essentially compatible with, the Supadriv screw drive.

Phillips drivers have an intentional angle on the flanks and rounded corners so they will cam out of the slot before a power tool will twist off the screw head. The Pozidriv screws and drivers have straight sided flanks.

The Pozidriv screwdriver and screws are also visually distinguishable from Phillips by the second set of cross-like features set 45 degrees from the cross. The manufacturing process for Pozidriv screwdrivers is slightly more complex. The Phillips driver has four simple slots cut out of it, whereas in the Pozidriv each slot is the result of two machining processes at right angles. The result of this is that the arms of the cross are parallel-sided with the Pozidriv, and tapered with the Phillips.

This design is intended to decrease the likelihood that the Pozidriv screwdriver will slip out, provide a greater driving surface, and decrease wear. The chief disadvantage of Pozidriv screws is that they are visually quite similar to Phillips, thus many people are unaware of the difference or do not own the correct drivers for them, and use incorrect screwdrivers. This results in difficulty with removing the screw and damage to the slot, rendering any subsequent use of a correct screwdriver unsatisfactory. Phillips screwdrivers will fit in and turn Pozidriv screws, but will cam out if enough torque is applied, potentially damaging the screw head. The marker lines on a Pozidriv screwdriver will not fit a Phillips screw correctly, and are likely to slip or tear out the screw head.

Edited by Don Coatney
I am somewhat kinky but the word link was my intent
Posted

I can certainly vouch for their statements regarding similarity to regular phillips and the fact that a standard phillips does not fit correctly. I was very careful with the screws for my window hardware when using the incorrect standard phillips. As in most cases now that I have the proper tool its much easier.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I picked these up at a flea market a couple of years ago. They are not much use now, but would have been standard service station equipment when our cars were new. They are battery cell testers. Old tar top batteries had exposed buss connectors on top and these testers would be used to check voltage in each cell. The tester in the first picture is older, probably from the twenties. The rod at right angles to the probe point is plated with cadmium. By inserting this in the cell it is possible to test both plates in the cell. I believe that in the old days it was common practice to rebuild battery cells by either cleaning or replacing the plates, then re-tarring the top. The second picture shows a tester from the forties used to simply test cell voltage. The third pic is from the Model Garage series in Popular Science from 1948. It shows Gus Wilson using a cell tester.

Dave

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  • Like 1
Posted

Anyone seen these before? I found these at a 2nd hand junk store. They are grease guns but I have not seen this kind before. Its strange that they have several. I didnt buy them but wonder if I should?

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Posted

these were standard tool roll issue for most of my LBCs...very popular about the farm also..usually found in about every mowing machine tool kit etc etc...nothing new..still buy them new like this today..there are a couple different sizes in this style..saw one just today at TSC as I bought a hand grease pump (today's industry standard) to built a high pressure hydrolastic pump assembly.

Posted

Ed, I use the same organizers at work I also didn't want to stick them down. I just used them without using the double sided tape (the weight of the wrenches keep them secure).

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  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Gents,

I put this Timing Indicator Tool together for about $26.

First I bought a Pittsburgh Dial Indicator from Harbor Tool @ $12

Second a Dial Extention from COMP (ebay) for @$10.

Then a Brass Fitting some Copper Tubing, and a set Screw from my Local Hardware for @$4. It inserts into the Engine Head Plug above the 6th Cylinder to read Top Dead Center in order to set the Timing within 0.001.

Here is a picture of it. My Chrysler Service Manual shows it on page 86.

A Test Light (C-744) is also easy to make to go along with it.

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  • Like 2
Posted
Gents,

I put this Timing Indicator Tool together for about $26.

First I bought a Pittsburgh Dial Indicator from Harbor Tool @ $12

Second a Dial Extention from COMP (ebay) for @$10.

Then a Brass Fitting some Copper Tubing, and a set Screw from my Local Hardware for @$4. It inserts into the Engine Head Plug above the 6th Cylinder to read Top Dead Center in order to set the Timing within 0.001.

Here is a picture of it. My Chrysler Service Manual shows it on page 86.

A Test Light (C-744) is also easy to make to go along with it.

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  • 6 months later...
Posted

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Don thats quite the old snap on ratchet you have. Organizing some of my stuff I came across two oldies that look like this

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Posted

I dont have a big set like most of you, but i do have my KAL Tunemaster set that helped me find out that my voltage reg. was bad...that and i just take my dads tools when he's not looking :D

Posted
Ed..is that a french company..I tried to find Uo-douS on the internet with no luck..

Of course it is Tim you know my last name I'm French too

Posted

As you can see Ed..I am up early...

I am not sure if I want to call this my first day of retirement or not..it is the last day I can officially take off work and still get paid..as Monday I turn in my two security badges and come home..up early, made coffee, pulled weeds, fed the birds and have drilled two yard statues and put those dusk to dawn lights in them for the bottom of my front steps..

I have been patiently waiting for the squirrels to arrive..I have a gift for them..I think they know I am home...they did not hear my car start up and leave this morning..actually with me being home I will trap these little guys in my "Hav-a-Hart" traps for deportation

Posted

Wow Tim first day of retirement and already just sitting around watching the squirrels........

Posted

Few more. The battery charger was donated to me by a fellow forum member.

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Posted
As you can see Ed..I am up early...

I am not sure if I want to call this my first day of retirement or not..it is the last day I can officially take off work and still get paid..as Monday I turn in my two security badges and come home.

Congratulations, Tim! Enjoy...:cool:

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